hulm333 Posted January 30, 2009 Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 i have a 2006 sierra 2500hd crew cab with the 6.0 4l80e trans and 4:10 gears. its 4x4 with a 4 inch lift and 33x12.50/18 tires. i do pull a boat in the summer with this truck but most of my driving is in town. i am wanting a cam that will sound very aggressive(110 lsa???) yet still provide the bottom end torques i need. ideas?/? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted January 30, 2009 Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 I wouldn't go more than a 112LSA for any truck that is used as a truck. It's hard enough on the 6.0L that you put about 3" more tire to it without changing the gear. Look into something like this for a mild duration on a 112LSA. It will idle a bit choppy, but shouldn't have much problem making enough torque to tow without downshifting all the time. Use like a 918 or similar spring with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hulm333 Posted January 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 I wouldn't go more than a 112LSA for any truck that is used as a truck. It's hard enough on the 6.0L that you put about 3" more tire to it without changing the gear. Look into something like this for a mild duration on a 112LSA. It will idle a bit choppy, but shouldn't have much problem making enough torque to tow without downshifting all the time. Use like a 918 or similar spring with it. that sounds pretty good! what about the kits that texas speed sells? 589.00 with cam, springs,push rods,retainers/keepers i believe. and also i dont plan on pushin this engine over 6k do i really need springs and or pushrods?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted January 30, 2009 Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 The springs are required with any cam change. The pushrods are recomended, but not required. You will lose some of the lifter pre-load if you leave the stock pushrods in. The stock pushrods are 7.395" and the replacements are 7.400". Not much difference, but it will quiet the valvetrain some. As for some saying you'll bend the stock pushrods, I've never had any bend. If you go to an agressive dual spring though pushrods are a must as the spring pressure will cause deflection of the pushrod. If you go with their kit do the 220/220 on a 112LSA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hulm333 Posted January 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 The springs are required with any cam change. The pushrods are recomended, but not required. You will lose some of the lifter pre-load if you leave the stock pushrods in. The stock pushrods are 7.395" and the replacements are 7.400". Not much difference, but it will quiet the valvetrain some. As for some saying you'll bend the stock pushrods, I've never had any bend. If you go to an agressive dual spring though pushrods are a must as the spring pressure will cause deflection of the pushrod. If you go with their kit do the 220/220 on a 112LSA. great advice thank you!! what do you think about there kits like the 220/220 kit or 224/224 http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/categoryM....=5&catid=44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted January 30, 2009 Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 I think their kits are fine. If you buy it, get the 220. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hulm333 Posted January 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 I think their kits are fine. If you buy it, get the 220. talked to one of there sales/tech guys and he recommended doing a custom grind of 200/224 and 11 lsa to get the lumpy idle i want and still be ok with stock converter. sound good?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted January 31, 2009 Report Share Posted January 31, 2009 Are you even reading what I've posted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
detjoe Posted January 31, 2009 Report Share Posted January 31, 2009 this is why I have been a little hard on some of the new guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hulm333 Posted February 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 Are you even reading what I've posted? sorry i guess i suck at typing. he recommended at .581 lift 220/224 111 lsa. longer duration on exhaust help for torque?? how does that sound? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted February 3, 2009 Report Share Posted February 3, 2009 Sounds fine. In my first reply post I recomended the less expensive Trick Flow cam. Link That cam is a 220/224 with a .575/.575 on a 112LSA. Almost identicle to what he recomended. I would also not recomend going under a 112LSA as I posted in the first reply, but the difference between a 111 and a 112 will be fairly minimal. I only said go with the 220/220 because after I made my first post and made a recomendation you came back with a cam choice list that you found based on price. With the choices in that list, I gave a recomendation. That is why I asked if you were at all reading what I was posting. Any answer I gave you, you asked another question completely going around what I'd just posted or asking what I'd already answered. No offense, just confusing me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hulm333 Posted February 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2009 Sounds fine. In my first reply post I recomended the less expensive Trick Flow cam. Link That cam is a 220/224 with a .575/.575 on a 112LSA. Almost identicle to what he recomended. I would also not recomend going under a 112LSA as I posted in the first reply, but the difference between a 111 and a 112 will be fairly minimal. I only said go with the 220/220 because after I made my first post and made a recomendation you came back with a cam choice list that you found based on price. With the choices in that list, I gave a recomendation. That is why I asked if you were at all reading what I was posting. Any answer I gave you, you asked another question completely going around what I'd just posted or asking what I'd already answered. No offense, just confusing me. yeah i see that now sorry bout that. you're right that is the exact cam i need. what about springs and pushrods through summit? what else might i need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hulm333 Posted February 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 Sounds fine. In my first reply post I recomended the less expensive Trick Flow cam. Link That cam is a 220/224 with a .575/.575 on a 112LSA. Almost identicle to what he recomended. I would also not recomend going under a 112LSA as I posted in the first reply, but the difference between a 111 and a 112 will be fairly minimal. I only said go with the 220/220 because after I made my first post and made a recomendation you came back with a cam choice list that you found based on price. With the choices in that list, I gave a recomendation. That is why I asked if you were at all reading what I was posting. Any answer I gave you, you asked another question completely going around what I'd just posted or asking what I'd already answered. No offense, just confusing me. while im in there and have things tore apart. any other upgrades that make sense? thermostat...... things like that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixxerrider Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 you could do a 160* stat since its open. Do you have efans? could do that as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hulm333 Posted February 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 you could do a 160* stat since its open. Do you have efans? could do that as well no efans. any drawbacks to doin a 160 stat? pros and cons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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