misterp Posted November 21, 2007 Report Share Posted November 21, 2007 Ohh, no Mr.P, I jus brought them the block. I did all the assymbly, they bored 7 holes and sleeved 1 for $400, doallers. Yeh... Kinda hard but, I Called there competitor and they said they step sleeve every block they sleeve. they said That my shop should have done this! it insures the sleeve could not go up cause the heads there and it can not go down cause they leave a (step) wich means they stop there bore right before the bottom of the cylinder so the sleve can sit on that(step in the block) then they deck the top to remove the reaming sleeve on the head side. Thank's Mr.P, Am I on the right track?? Take the Deal? I know all this work I am doing now is cause this sleeve failure? P&S I told them about paying for there mistake like u said, I gave them the analogy "If I t_bone them at an intersection I would be stuck with there complete repair bill!" Thank's Danny No I was not aware that you only had them do the block for you; that being the case I do think they are extending a fair offer. As this is now a financial loss for them you've got to somehow make sure that you keep some form of leverage on them so that they will finish the job right and timely, don't let your block just sit on the shop floor for the winter... Get a couple other people to evaluate the head, let us know what that turns up. - Mr. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04CHASE Posted November 21, 2007 Report Share Posted November 21, 2007 imo i wouldnt bother with resleeving the block you can find ones in good shape for 400 or better on the forums, to me that cheap for peace of mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black2003SS Posted November 21, 2007 Report Share Posted November 21, 2007 OR order one already done and built forged from some place like texas-speed for under $3k and be done with it...turn key with all parts...part out what you got left... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black2003SS Posted November 21, 2007 Report Share Posted November 21, 2007 (edited) http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?i...83&catid=83 Dont dick around with them any more. Just tell them you want the $400 back and leave it at that...they dont have to do any more work and you get your money back...put it towards the new short block and find yourself a nice set of stock LQ9 heads or something. Heads are not as important on FI as a cam is anyways...whatever your budget is... Edited November 21, 2007 by Black2003SS (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superredss Posted November 22, 2007 Report Share Posted November 22, 2007 yes this is a known problem i did this to my stock lq9 the problem is the stock truck intake. the air all flows to the back two cylinders first then the others get it. this is why alot of us have switched to a spider style intake. aka vic jr or gmpp intake. gus with maggies dont have this problem with their because the intake was set up correctly. these motors werent meant for boost so you have to do kind of alot of mods to have a strong running motor with boost. ok chase educate me. 3 cars that i had before the silverado ss were supercharged; a mustang, a lightning, and a montecarlo ss. They were all factory type forced induction systems, roots and screw types. Do the roots and screw type systems have the same problems as the centrifugal systems on our silverado ss's with the intake design damaging the cylinders? I "obviously" like forced induction and when the time comes i want to be sure that i do it right and get the right system. you guys are making me believe more and more in magnacharger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04CHASE Posted November 22, 2007 Report Share Posted November 22, 2007 well the radix has the intake where the rotors go straight to the manifold. on the truck intakes the air goes straight to the back then its distibuted. look in a stock manifold next time you can. the stock intake just werent meant for forced induction. the radix is a good choice, as far as that goes but the radix will only take you so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stroked out Posted November 22, 2007 Report Share Posted November 22, 2007 i called w2w and they said all ls1 baed engine have this problem, the number 7 cylinder is the first to detonate due to lean conditions. he also said all of the intakes do this, but they have pushed engine to 1000 hp with these intakes. the only one i have seen that short of fixes this in the vic intake. finally he left me with good advice. if your pparts are capable or a certian hp level then your fuel, air, spark system should be able to handle it. for example if you have turbos that can generate 1000 hp your fuel system should be able to do the same, then engine should handle it, and other components. all your components should compliment eachother. for your 408, blown i say use the new 87 lb/hr injectors maybe 96 lb's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04CHASE Posted November 22, 2007 Report Share Posted November 22, 2007 well this is what i did, the 60lber, or mototron sd injectors are rated at 43 psi , so at 60 psi its like 73 lb.hr and at 70 psi its close to 80, im keeping my fuel press at 60 with a boost ref regulator, and now i have meth so my fueling should be good to go for 1k hp. i also learned about this with the last motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superredss Posted November 22, 2007 Report Share Posted November 22, 2007 well the radix has the intake where the rotors go straight to the manifold. on the truck intakes the air goes straight to the back then its distibuted. look in a stock manifold next time you can. the stock intake just werent meant for forced induction. the radix is a good choice, as far as that goes but the radix will only take you so far. thanks chase, when i get the unit i am only looking for about 6-8lbs of boost to start with so i guess the radix will not be a problem. I want driveability and i want the stock bottom end to last as long as i will let it. I didnt know if the screw/roots units for the silverado replaced the upper manifold or not. I assumed so since they do on all the other vehicles that i have ever delt with. I know what you mean about the radix only going so far with the boost but from your point of view, are there any major pitfalls that the screw/roots units have on the silverado? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted November 22, 2007 Report Share Posted November 22, 2007 thanks chase, when i get the unit i am only looking for about 6-8lbs of boost to start with so i guess the radix will not be a problem. I want driveability and i want the stock bottom end to last as long as i will let it. I didnt know if the screw/roots units for the silverado replaced the upper manifold or not. I assumed so since they do on all the other vehicles that i have ever delt with. I know what you mean about the radix only going so far with the boost but from your point of view, are there any major pitfalls that the screw/roots units have on the silverado? Three disadvantages to the Maggie - becoming really inefficient at higher blower speeds, small charge cooler, and limited capacity. The size issue is being addressed in Magnacharger's coming products, the other issues remain. AFA maximum effort on the factory short block, the limiting factor is the pistons and rod bolts; if you are going to push it more than about 550 hp then there is so much cylinder pressure that any onset of ping or preignition will mean almost certain instant piston disintegration with the factory cast pistons. With the Radix as long as you operate the blower reasonably close to design specs and have a tune that is fairly competent and you won't have any issues with engine reliability. Transmission reliability will be another problem... Mr. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownFogger540 Posted November 22, 2007 Report Share Posted November 22, 2007 If these guys would have step sleeved it originally we wouldn't be having this conversation, straight sleeves are cheap and easy to do because you dont have to create a step and be a good machinist, with a step sleeve you need 2 shrink sizes to be accurate more work more time more money . push this far as you feel comfortable doing! I would push it to the moon! just my 2cents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superredss Posted November 25, 2007 Report Share Posted November 25, 2007 thanks chase, and mr p, and on that note mr p, i might go with kenne bell...got to weigh all my options i guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riddle Posted December 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 Update: So,... The deal we ended up making was: I R&I the engine, pay for the head gasket's and the piston and rings. They Refunded me $436, for the original balance, they tore down my long block, dissassymble the heads and checked them (found one warped Valve I guess, and repaired it.) Installed new cam and rod bearing and all new gaskets. Installed a new sleeve, using the step sleve design. ( IF any one ever get's a sleeve definatelly only get a step sleeve!). I followed Mr.P's Advice and Backed the truck out of the garage all the way to jus behind the cab, and Used a Bar to hold the tranny above the tosion bars, (wich worked sweet by the way.) I got a little cold, but definately worked quicker, Got to Love Alaska! Well the Engine is in and running! I am going to run it N/A for now, till I get my Victor Jr. on! Still working on the programming for the 408ci, N/A. fouling plugs pretty good, got about 50mi on her now. BTW. I Installed a TCI 3000 stall while the engine was out, and HOLY CRAP! I definately think the truck is faster N/A now then it was S/C before without the stall. Last night I did My first ever AWD Burnout! dry pavement too. ( Nothing Like Chase, No smoke) but definately squeeled them a good 10ft! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadowns Posted December 3, 2007 Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 Nice work on getting the engine replaced in the cold weather. Be sure you get that tune dialed in right before too many miles. You would not want to wash down the cylinders with too much fuel for very long and ruin more stuff! CD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riddle Posted March 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2008 update: So I Installed the Vitor Jr. So Hopefully with the Equall Air distribution I should be safe on that #7! Also, I would like to thank chase04 For being very helpfull with this whole swap! I sent lots of PM's! and he answered right away and supplied pics and everything, that a A+ for him to help me out that much, with being a stranger! Here is some pic's (Note: it is not as pretty as Chase, but get the job done! Low buck version.lol) Thank's to everyone on the forum for helping out a fellow SS owner! ~Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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