budhayes3

I've been running 160* stats in all of my vehicles, here in the northeast, for years, always with good results. As mentioned, a retune is a must, or you may experience poor fuel economy and a rich biased af ratio. As for winter time, this is actually when I like the 160* stat the most, since the stat opens sooner, the coolant therefore circulates sooner, and the heat comes up very quickly. I've never had a problem with not having enough heat either, think about it, 175-18ish is plenty hot enough to keep your toes warm (a 160* will not run at 160* btw, as that's when the stat begins to open) I'm the kind of guy that's always cold, and I usually keep my fan on the 1 or 2 speed setting when the temp is 0* outside, once the heat has come up and I've blasted the cabin to get it warm.

Could be...curious if anyone has ever tried blowing the solenoid out if debris truly is the issue as the TSB states....

There's a T.S.B. in reference to this code that outlines replacing the canister vent valve with a new remote mount filter that mounts at the back of the block, on top of the bellhousing. It requires a few feet of 5/8" heater hose. The filter clogs with dirt and debris due to it's location. I had the same code a few months ago and the light would come and go intermittently...been off for a few weeks now actually, but I'm sure it will be back.

I haven't heard of anyone losing the tube like that, but guys have pinched the o-ring when swapping oil pumps during a cam swap, and sometimes the pressure relief valve in the oil pump can stick and cause oil pressure problems.

How did he run the a/c without the engine running lol

Well that's a cheap enough fix...I'd check there first

The water pump gaskets are very common failures on these engines, and they're less than $20 for the pair, whereas I have seen waterpumps go for $400+. Haven't heard of too many water pump failures. If the coolant isn't coming out of the weep hole or from the front seal, I'll bet that it's the gaskets between the pump and engine. They may not even leave a messy trail behind...

The motor/module assembly is the more common failure, I've heard of that causing the problem a few times yet never heard of anyone replacing a switch for this problem on a newer truck...

How about swapping in a GM crate 383?

Not really, maybe a little less carbon build up in the intake, but that's about it. EGR doesn't really hurt performance, and actually helps to lower cylinder temps which reduces detonation. With that being said, my EGR is deleted though lol. I switched to an 02 PCM a few years ago as my 99 PCM was having problems with false knock, and the 02 PCM that I swapped in did not have EGR. I haven't had any detonation problems, and the engine bay is a little cleaner looking without it.

I'd check the integrity of the wiring harness to that coil, make sure that a critter didn't eat through the harness. Try a better test to check for spark...get an old spark plug and plug it in the end of the spark plug wire. Ground the plug (you could use a stretch of wire), and crank the engine over to see if spark jumps the gap. I'd be more prone to think that you have a bad injector after sitting for a year than a bad coil, but anything's possible.

I idle around 625 with my 5.3 and baby cam

Cute kid Holty, savor every moment with him. I can't wait to get off of work every day and rush home to my little girl (she'll be 3 August 31st)

If you can get a peek through one of the spark plug holes (probably need a bore scope), take a look at the piston in there. If it's a flat top it's an LQ9, dished=LQ4

To answer this question, one of the connections to the down pipes is different between the 5.3's and 6.0's, can't remember if it's the driver's or passenger's side though. One has a built in donut while the other doesn't or something along those lines. Creederado posted pics with the difference on PT.net a few years ago.