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    Senior SS Member
  • Birthday 10/19/1957

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  • Owns
  • Silverado SS/VHO/TrailBlazerSS Color
    Arrival Blue
  • SS/VHO/TrailBlazerSS Year
  • Drivetrain Config
  • Build Date/TPW
  • Delivering Dealership
    Roger Dean Chevrolet
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  • Modifications
    Gaylord X2000 lid with Speedstur Wing

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  • Location
    Stuart Florida
  • Interests
    C6Z06 Jetstream Blue, Silverado SS, Impala SS, modifying cars/trucks to make them better, autocrossing, scuba, roller-coasters, Great Danes, family

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  1. And the SSS has a classic and timeless design that gets me at least a compliment every single month, even though I need paint on the roof, Gaylord tonneau cover, hood, and front bumper & grille, after 215K miles and being parked outside in South Florida sun EVERY single day except maybe 20 days since 12/2003. In addition, I work at the St. Lucie Nuclear plant, which is about 150 yards from the beach (salt spray) and I am ONLY just getting body rust starting on the bottom of the front passenger door. I am amazed with the LQ9 (LS1 architecture) longenvity and the factory paint durabil
  2. I just hit 215,000 miles. I still love the truck, and its still runs strong for basically stock. Getting ready to spend another $5000 to repaint and freshen up. Still on original alternator, radiator, power steering pump, etc. Replaced water pump at about 180,000 miles for $120 and it was the easiest WP I had ever done. Never stranded me. Only major failure was transfer case needed replacement at 150,000 miles for $2300 (on the road) as rear driveshaft yoke was flopping around in it, but as it turns out I still was able to drive from West Palm Beach to Harrisburg PA on the front different
  3. I am 6ft 1". I did them from the top and it all went all pretty easy. It is a truck. I replaced at 95,000 miles and they had low wear. I replaced with Bosch Platinum Plus 4's and the truck still runs real strong (for stock with PCM's for less tune, Magnaflow mufflers and Volant ram air thru the passenger duct air cleaner) at 215,000 miles. I am really amazed at the longevity of the LQ9 motor with its basic LS architecture.
  4. I went with the thicker Crystaline 3M tint in 70% transmittance, due to its total block of infrared (heat) in hot Florida sun. It works fine in the SSS truck with the very bright LED headlights that I use. However, I did it in my C6Z too and regret it, as the factory HID lighting on that car is not so good. I hit a large racoon in the Vette last August causing $2600 damage to front bumper cladding, fog lamp and carbon fiber splitter. Now I am afraid to drive it at night, as a dead Armadillo in the road can due extensive damage to the car, which the truck would simply drive over.
  5. I agree with some other guy that HIDs in reflector housings can be at high risk of blinding light scatter. Some of the very large Ford truck reflector light enclosures were particularly bad. My personal experience with our 2003-2006 Silverado light enclosures work pretty well with HIDs & LEDs. I have only been flashed by oncoming drivers once with the my LEDs (non with the Kensun HIDs), and it was only as I went over a sharp dip and rise in the road just as they approached and they momentarily saw my low beams. They thought that I flashed them as my lights are bright in the intended ligh
  6. I would not recommend HID lights anymore. I tried Kensun 55W HID lights on my truck for both high and low beams. Low beam performance was good, but it takes the high beams too long to heat up to get good output to be useful on any roads where vehicles are coming towards you periodically. Also I felt that the hot HIDs are tough on the factory clear light enclosure plastic, and fogs them over time. I converted to 55W SNGL LED lights from Amazon, which I feel are brighter than then the Kensuns HIDs. SNGL claims 12800 lumens per pair, and I believe it. With high and low beam lights it
  7. I haven't been so active on the boards lately. Had some more health and work issues. Also keeping a 2008 Jetstream Blue C6Z06 nice and running. But I still have my 2004 Arrival Blue SSS, which has reached an amazing 215,000 miles with great reliability! In 2014 I replaced hood that had some rust around the latch hoop with a Cowl Induction hood from Street Scene thru Stylin Concepts. Price was good at about $400 shippped, but still cost $700 after painting. Unfortunately, being a double panelled hood for strength the paint could not coat between the panels and at 1.5 years it started rust
  8. Ahhh, Must have been one of your first header installs, as a truck is far easier to do header installs (when system is properly designed) than any F-Body of any year! Of course getting the exhaust system bolts/nuts off of a higher mileage vehicle is always a challenge. I have more tools for headers and exhaust work than anything else from prior 1970's Pontiacs, and my prior 94 Z28. The 96 Impals SS was not too bad. On F-Bodies, sockets cannot even be used on most of the bolts. It is common to use different types/lengths/angles of open, box and ratcheting wrenches (shorties, full length, e
  9. I have the original factory cat/pipe fail on my SSS (rattling, just starting to block & check engine light). Dealer wants $1050 per driver's side and pass side $2100 total) to replace ($883 for just each part)!! Local parts store can't ID part and online factory replacement simply do not seem to be the same quality level. So I might as well go with new Dynatech back to exhaust for less price, like I did on 96 Impala when factory manifold cracked (Clear Image set up that was great). I am curious to know how the Dynatechs do for you. Looks like plenty of room to work on the SSS from
  10. I used a set of tri-Y headers with ceramic coating from clear-image on my 1996 Impala SS with their high flow cats. For the Impala LT1, they were probably the best quality and most effective street performance header out there. I ran them for 4 years without so much as a hint of a leak or any discoloring of the ceramic coating. It was a really good product. Their high flow cats were also VERY good quality with a 304 stainless steel wound core substrate, not this ceramic crap. Overall a thing of beauty/art! Not sure about truck headers he now makes.
  11. Now I am curious, and will have to measure the impedance of my old yellow amber front turn-signal bulbs to see what the factory impedance is. Maybe the very high wattage of near 140 Watts per bulb (with a 1.5 ohm impedance) is ok, as the turn signals and hazards are not continuously energized. Last time I ran 160 W halogen high beams, 10 years ago, one bulb exploded after barely 10 minutes of use, due to the intense heat in a small bulb. Are you saying that you operated your turn signals or hazard lights "all night driving from Georgia to Florida"? Otherwise, I am not sure how that appli
  12. 3 Ohms would result in 4.8 amps (almost 70 watts) per bulb, which is pretty high power (hi-po headlamp wattage here). Granted since it is flashing and not continuous duty, that should not melt anything. Leaving the hazard flashers on while on the roadside could be a big problem though. The interesting thing that I noted was that while pulling a U-haul trailer to move my daughter home from grad school 2 weeks ago, that the turn signal (with LEDs) was perfectly normal with the trailer lights connected. Last year when I pulled a U-Haul to move her to grad school without LEDs, I did not n
  13. Could you folks provide any assistance, for those successfully doing LED conversions? - My turn signals have the too fast hyperflash now with the front "switchback" turn signal LED bulbs (white - parking mode, yellow - turn signal mode, white with yellow flash when in parking mode with T-signal on). I tried a plug in module from JDBToy thru Amazon, but it did not work (no flash at all), and I have avoided the 6 & 10 ohm resistors, as they run hot, must be mounted to metal (& away from plastic), are big/clumsy and degrade the wiring in an area subject to driving water. I noted tha
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