zippy Posted January 14, 2005 Report Share Posted January 14, 2005 seems like it would just be easier to buy a 2500 and put the SS parts on it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonmalibuss Posted January 15, 2005 Report Share Posted January 15, 2005 Or simply fabricate a perch on the back side of the existing crossmember as Parish did!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurbochargedBerserker Posted January 16, 2005 Report Share Posted January 16, 2005 Or simply fabricate a perch on the back side of the existing crossmember as Parish did!!! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> You still need different length drive shafts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonmalibuss Posted January 16, 2005 Report Share Posted January 16, 2005 Or simply fabricate a perch on the back side of the existing crossmember as Parish did!!! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> You still need different length drive shafts. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> No big deal it would be best to go with a stronger front and rear driveshaft anyways! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurbochargedBerserker Posted January 17, 2005 Report Share Posted January 17, 2005 Or simply fabricate a perch on the back side of the existing crossmember as Parish did!!! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> You still need different length drive shafts. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> No big deal it would be best to go with a stronger front and rear driveshaft anyways! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> True, but unless you can make it yourself, be prepared to spend some crazy money. I got one quote for $1200 per shaft... I know that's crazy, but what can you do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
styleandspeed Posted January 17, 2005 Report Share Posted January 17, 2005 WOW those are some expensive driveshafts. I have a shop here that told me that they would built bulletproof ones for around $300 each. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurbochargedBerserker Posted January 17, 2005 Report Share Posted January 17, 2005 WOW those are some expensive driveshafts. I have a shop here that told me that they would built bulletproof ones for around $300 each. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I asked for shafts to handle 800 rwhp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonmalibuss Posted January 18, 2005 Report Share Posted January 18, 2005 Yeah $250 - $300 is what I can get moly drive shafts built for and they will come with U joints and yolks! By the way I have the new input shaft on the way from NVG to do the 4l80e conversion 3-5 weeks wait then i'm going to see about getting some copied and heat treated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurbochargedBerserker Posted January 18, 2005 Report Share Posted January 18, 2005 Yeah $250 - $300 is what I can get moly drive shafts built for and they will come with U joints and yolks! By the way I have the new input shaft on the way from NVG to do the 4l80e conversion 3-5 weeks wait then i'm going to see about getting some copied and heat treated! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> AWESOME!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugsdad Posted January 26, 2005 Report Share Posted January 26, 2005 Yeah $250 - $300 is what I can get moly drive shafts built for and they will come with U joints and yolks! By the way I have the new input shaft on the way from NVG to do the 4l80e conversion 3-5 weeks wait then i'm going to see about getting some copied and heat treated! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Did you check to see if the NV149 will bolt to the back of the 4L80E using your stock adaptor? No one ever got back to me for fitment so I'm assuming you did this. Like was said above, the 4L80E is physically longer than the 4L60E. No such thing as a drop in without doing something to the crossmember and the propshaft and rear driveshaft. Be careful just making the perch longer because you still need to have room to get the pan off. It's possible you can use the pan that came on the Hummer for clearance but the bolts may be tough to get to if the pan has to come off for a filter change. Lots of stuff to be taken into consideration when doing this. You need more than just bolting them together. It has to be user friendly too. So New Venture got you a transfer case input shaft that bolts in? Cool! Does the front half of the case have to be machined so it can fit? I think it's the 205 T case that a 32 spline input shaft that can be retro'd into it but the case has to be machined for the larger diameter shaft to fit into it. Remember the length of the 4L80E shaft has to stick out of the back of the adaptor the same amount as the stocker did unless they change the length of the input shaft on the transfer case to compensate for this. Do you know if the latter was done? Not being critical or anything, just wanting to help you get what you need from New Venture without getting surprised with $100's in machining costs or transmission output shaft machining anyway. What's the output shaft spline on the NV149? Is it 27 or 32? On the later Typhoons, the BW4472 went to the 32 rear output spline with a 4 pinion planetary inside replacing the 3 pinion. If you have a 32 spline on your NV149 output shaft, you can get a much stronger yoke to go onto it. The weakness not being the splined shaft but the yoke that goes onto it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonmalibuss Posted January 28, 2005 Report Share Posted January 28, 2005 The t-case will not bolt to the 80 using the stock adapter I just spoke with the guy who is getting me the new input shaft and he said all you need to do this swap (which he said he has done a few now) is an adapter from a 4x4 truck that has an 80 and then replace the input shaft with the new one for the 80 and reinstall the t-case! Then modify the crossmember or fab up a new one he also mentioned that a crossmember out of a truck with an 80 may work but he has just either modified the stock one or made a new crossmember. It sounds like I should have the input shaft in a week or two and I already have a guy who can reverse engineer the input shaft and heat treat them for me he said he will give me a price to do them once he has the input shaft! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hangslo Posted January 30, 2005 Report Share Posted January 30, 2005 ... post deleted ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10secTy Posted February 3, 2005 Report Share Posted February 3, 2005 You guys might want to check this place out. Scrool down the page they offer a kit to bolt in a 4L80e in place of a 4L60E on fullsize. http://www.transmissioncenter.net/4L60E.htm Nolan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonmalibuss Posted February 3, 2005 Report Share Posted February 3, 2005 You guys might want to check this place out. Scrool down the page they offer a kit to bolt in a 4L80e in place of a 4L60E on fullsize.http://www.transmissioncenter.net/4L60E.htm Nolan <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Are you talking about the wireharness converter? If so thats a very minor issue to making the 80 work in the SS! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10secTy Posted February 27, 2005 Report Share Posted February 27, 2005 You guys might want to check this place out. Scrool down the page they offer a kit to bolt in a 4L80e in place of a 4L60E on fullsize.http://www.transmissioncenter.net/4L60E.htm Nolan <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Are you talking about the wireharness converter? If so thats a very minor issue to making the 80 work in the SS! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Nope they show a differnt outputshaft and Tcase adapter. Nolan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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