0patience Posted December 24, 2017 Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 After I saw one done by someone else, I had the LEDs and stepper motor, so I finally took the time to do the upgrade and replace the stepper motor.I think it looks pretty good now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZchevyman Posted December 24, 2017 Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 Im in the middle of doing mine takes a lot of time unsoldering, they must be polarity sensitive as iv'e had to unsolder some of them just haven't put them back on. Tomorrows job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildcustoms Posted December 24, 2017 Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 I really would like to do this. Do they sell everything as a kit or are you guys buying everything individually? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZchevyman Posted December 24, 2017 Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 I really would like to do this. Do they sell everything as a kit or are you guys buying everything individually? I just brought the leds off eBay cheaper that way also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0patience Posted December 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 (edited) LED are polar sensitive. The ones I had, have a long lead and short lead and the long lead was positive. I used a test light, plugged in the circuit board into my truck, turned the marker lights on and checked which side was power and marked it with a sharpie marker. These were the LEDs I went with. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011E8T9G2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And this is the stepper motors I went with. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KWRHVM6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You need a decent solder iron. I use "Sta-Brite" silver solder and has a liquid flux that you can use a toothpick to apply it exactly where you need it, and it is a little easier to work with. I will be installing the LEDs on my heater controls and headlight switch today. Between the Instrument panel, heater controls, headlight switch, I will probably use most of two 20 packs of LEDs. Youtube tutorial Edited December 24, 2017 by 0patience (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZchevyman Posted December 26, 2017 Report Share Posted December 26, 2017 LED are polar sensitive. The ones I had, have a long lead and short lead and the long lead was positive. I used a test light, plugged in the circuit board into my truck, turned the marker lights on and checked which side was power and marked it with a sharpie marker. These were the LEDs I went with. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011E8T9G2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And this is the stepper motors I went with. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KWRHVM6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You need a decent solder iron. I use "Sta-Brite" silver solder and has a liquid flux that you can use a toothpick to apply it exactly where you need it, and it is a little easier to work with. I will be installing the LEDs on my heater controls and headlight switch today. Between the Instrument panel, heater controls, headlight switch, I will probably use most of two 20 packs of LEDs. Youtube tutorial i might buy some of these also, the ones i brought re mounted to a base so it makes them hard to mount, have you replaced the bulbs for leds in the steering wheel controls also but i see those are tiny, have you done them, do you know which ones are best for them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildcustoms Posted December 26, 2017 Report Share Posted December 26, 2017 thanks for the reply, i will placing some orders : ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0patience Posted December 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2017 (edited) i might buy some of these also, the ones i brought re mounted to a base so it makes them hard to mount, have you replaced the bulbs for leds in the steering wheel controls also but i see those are tiny, have you done them, do you know which ones are best for them? They fit in the steering wheel switches, the cargo light switch and the heater controls, but not the headlight switch. The heater controls are a royal pain, and you have to be careful not to overheat the circuit board, as you can burn the printed circuit. I cut the leads shorter and bent them and then soldered. (see picture) The headlight switch takes a T1-1/4 bulb with a turn lock connector. Also, on the heater controls, you will want to have white LEDs for the red and blue around the knobs, because if you use blue bulbs, you will end up with almost white and not so red. Looks awful. And FYI, a hook pick helps a lot putting the steering wheel switches back in and at that, you will probably be cussing up a storm. Or at least I was. I'd like to catch the engineer who thought those were a good idea. A warning though, they are bright. So, if you do the steering wheel, you will probably have to turn them down quite a bit. Edited December 26, 2017 by 0patience (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildcustoms Posted December 26, 2017 Report Share Posted December 26, 2017 thanks for the advise. everything ordered so this will be a nice winter project along with another projector retrofit in the headlights Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0patience Posted December 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2017 thanks for the advise. everything ordered so this will be a nice winter project along with another projector retrofit in the headlights Like this? I had to take the picture with the park lights on, as my camera just showed a huge light blob with the headlights on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildcustoms Posted December 26, 2017 Report Share Posted December 26, 2017 Kind of just no halos. I already have a retrofi with morimoto 4.0. But now I plan on doing a different set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZchevyman Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 They fit in the steering wheel switches, the cargo light switch and the heater controls, but not the headlight switch. The heater controls are a royal pain, and you have to be careful not to overheat the circuit board, as you can burn the printed circuit. I cut the leads shorter and bent them and then soldered. (see picture) The headlight switch takes a T1-1/4 bulb with a turn lock connector. Also, on the heater controls, you will want to have white LEDs for the red and blue around the knobs, because if you use blue bulbs, you will end up with almost white and not so red. Looks awful. And FYI, a hook pick helps a lot putting the steering wheel switches back in and at that, you will probably be cussing up a storm. Or at least I was. I'd like to catch the engineer who thought those were a good idea. A warning though, they are bright. So, if you do the steering wheel, you will probably have to turn them down quite a bit. Hey so i got all my lights done in al l the cluster and wheel etc, but having trouble finding the correct one for the headlight switch, could you help me with the links for the led i need to buy for that. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0patience Posted January 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2018 Hey so i got all my lights done in al l the cluster and wheel etc, but having trouble finding the correct one for the headlight switch, could you help me with the links for the led i need to buy for that. thanks That one is a tough one. The bulb size is T-1 1/4 I haven't found a direct LED replacement yet for it. I'm still trying to figure out what to do. The problem I ran into is that the old bulb melted the slot the bulb goes into on the headlight switch housing and I'm having a hard time fitting an LED in there. It is either too big a diameter or the LED hits. I'm ordering a couple new incandescent T1 1/4 bulbs and going to pull the bulb out and solder the LED in and then probably have to use a drill bit to clean up where the plastic melted. The headlight switch and heater controls are proving more of a pain than the instrument panel was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZchevyman Posted January 27, 2018 Report Share Posted January 27, 2018 That one is a tough one. The bulb size is T-1 1/4 I haven't found a direct LED replacement yet for it. I'm still trying to figure out what to do. The problem I ran into is that the old bulb melted the slot the bulb goes into on the headlight switch housing and I'm having a hard time fitting an LED in there. It is either too big a diameter or the LED hits. I'm ordering a couple new incandescent T1 1/4 bulbs and going to pull the bulb out and solder the LED in and then probably have to use a drill bit to clean up where the plastic melted. The headlight switch and heater controls are proving more of a pain than the instrument panel was. I might have a good at one of my headlight switches over the weekend. I found the cluster pretty simple to do. I’ll keep you updated on my headlight switch then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0patience Posted January 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 Sounds good.I'm waiting for the monsoon season to let up here in the Pathetic Northwest.Then I can get some more work done on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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