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edgarss44

Header install?

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So I'm thinking off bolting on some longtubes on my truck but need to know exactly what I need to do it right? I'm thinking of longtubes without cats straight into my borla muffler! Will I need a tune? Do I just bolt up the o2 sensers to the headers? Ill most likely be doing this myself except for the cutting and welding parts! Thanks guys!

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I just did the Dynatech long tubes over the summer but with cats. Your stock 02 sensors should transfer over unless they come out with the threads ( i ended up replacing one) You definitely should get tuned afterwards. While in there, i would recommend changing the header bolts out to ARP studs and use OEM header gaskets.

Edited by evildcustoms

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Ok thanks for the info! Is a tune a must? Or can I drive it untuned for a while? Will I have check engine lights on?

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I just did the Dynatech long tubes over the summer but with cats. Your stock 02 sensors should transfer over unless they come out with the threads ( i ended up replacing one) You definitely should get tuned afterwards. While in there, i would recommend changing the header bolts out to ARP studs and use OEM header gaskets.

 

Were you able to tell a noticeable difference with the addition of the headers?

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Ok thanks for the info! Is a tune a must? Or can I drive it untuned for a while? Will I have check engine lights on?

 

Normally you probably could drive around for a little while but your check engine light will definitely be on. Being you are removing the cats, i am not sure how it would affect the drivability without a tune.

 

Were you able to tell a noticeable difference with the addition of the headers?

the truck feels a bit more powerful. Idling or cruising it sounds about the same, but when you mash the throttle the truck screams. ( Get a lot of compliments on the sound). Before the headers i was already tuned by Blackbear so i just had them retune for the headers. I am sure if you compared an untuned truck to a header install and tune it would be a lot more dramatic difference.

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Thanks! I'm BB tuned, but haven't installed my Dynatech LT headers or catted Y pipe yet.

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The truck will just go into emergency mode and it will add more fuel. Could possibly burn the o2 sensors out.

If you get cheap headers that don't match how the oem o2 sensor reads it will burn the sensors also.

I went through 6 on my 350z before i just went back to oem manifolds

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Without cats and the cat delete on the ecu, it'll act like it does when your cat dies, little more rough and poor gas mileage.

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The truck will just go into emergency mode and it will add more fuel. Could possibly burn the o2 sensors out.

If you get cheap headers that don't match how the oem o2 sensor reads it will burn the sensors also.

I went through 6 on my 350z before i just went back to oem manifolds

 

I put "cheap, eBay" headers on my '10 Camaro SS and its been 2 years and about 40K miles with NO issues. I think they were stainless engineering. They've been flawless.

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You dont need to tune the truck with headers. it will still perform normally if you use the O2 delete so your SES light doesnt come on. You can tune a stock truck and make power so tuning it wont hurt it, but for the price why tune it now? wait until you actually need a tune if you are going to do more mods. Otherwise you will be spending money on tunes when you could have only spent that money once on one tune.

 

My experience with the header bolts is they normally break. So before you start to tear into it. Soak the bolts over a day with a good rust penetrator several times to help loosen up rust. Or you might break some off, Usually the back ones break just a FYI.

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You dont need to tune the truck with headers. it will still perform normally if you use the O2 delete so your SES light doesnt come on.

Were you implying doing just the rear O2 delete in the computer with this? Then doing a FULL tune later? Cause I plan on doing long tubes here soon also. I always assumed if I'm gonna mail my computer out or find a local tuner I could trust, I may as well do full tune. Never thought about sending out just for the O2 delete.

 

I planned on attempting the trick with the spark plug extenders that move the O2 further out of the pipe and exhaust air flow to limit the air they get and give a false "good" reading. Haven't read anything on it regarding the SSS or with long tubes, or even anything as new as these trucks. Just remember it from back in the day. May not work at all and figured chances are 50/50 but worth a shot for a few dollar part to attempt it.

 

Back to original post.... I new, good write up would be cool cause not too much info easy to find about the factory true duels and diff ways to set it up. Seen some info about running a X pipe, H pipe, regular connect to stock intermediates, new everything all way out with with some with cutouts and mufflers and some without, even some people just remove it all and add a Y pipe and run single. I plan to delete my cats so I wouldt mind a setup to just connect them right to stick exhaust as it is, for now at least. Don't see any of those setups offered really and figured that way would be on you to have a exhaust shop figure it out I guess. Idk. I really like and leaning towards the speed engendering full true duel X pipe kit for $400 but gonna have to wait to get that till after headers. What's everyone's opinions and what setups have you ran or tried out or liked/disliked with them?

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Were you implying doing just the rear O2 delete in the computer with this? Then doing a FULL tune later? Cause I plan on doing long tubes here soon also. I always assumed if I'm gonna mail my computer out or find a local tuner I could trust, I may as well do full tune. Never thought about sending out just for the O2 delete.

 

I planned on attempting the trick with the spark plug extenders that move the O2 further out of the pipe and exhaust air flow to limit the air they get and give a false "good" reading. Haven't read anything on it regarding the SSS or with long tubes, or even anything as new as these trucks. Just remember it from back in the day. May not work at all and figured chances are 50/50 but worth a shot for a few dollar part to attempt it.

 

Back to original post.... I new, good write up would be cool cause not too much info easy to find about the factory true duels and diff ways to set it up. Seen some info about running a X pipe, H pipe, regular connect to stock intermediates, new everything all way out with with some with cutouts and mufflers and some without, even some people just remove it all and add a Y pipe and run single. I plan to delete my cats so I wouldt mind a setup to just connect them right to stick exhaust as it is, for now at least. Don't see any of those setups offered really and figured that way would be on you to have a exhaust shop figure it out I guess. Idk. I really like and leaning towards the speed engendering full true duel X pipe kit for $400 but gonna have to wait to get that till after headers. What's everyone's opinions and what setups have you ran or tried out or liked/disliked with them?

Yes, do the rear 02 delete then the tune later. They should make the 02 delete sensors that are just plug and play. Im sure the LS1 style will work as its the same basic platform, you just need to know how long they are... Thats what I do with all my cars. Unplug them, plug in the simulators and im done.

 

 

A X pipe is going to be the best bet, it allows the exhaust to scavenge properly out of each bank and not back up on each other. Its the perfect way to have the exhaust flow like it should. Alot of people will dump the exhaust right after the rear axle or right before it. That is up to the drone of the exhaust as well inside.

 

Me personally I would go with 1 7/8 headers, true dual 3" exhaust into a X pipe and dump the exhaust after the axle, or have the exhaust come together and meet into one single outlet like the factory setup but in front of the passenger tire. I was going to do that and do the Boom tube nascar style tip to be different. Of course go all stainless and take it to a shop that can weld. You will pay for quality work, but it will last.

Edited by Blown 346

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