1BAD2K Posted October 23, 2016 Report Share Posted October 23, 2016 The guy at the dealer charged me $20 to program my used oem head until for my truck. I tipped him one large cold mountain dew too lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted October 23, 2016 Report Share Posted October 23, 2016 You tube shows you how to wire it in. Ebay for the software. It's sold already installed on a laptop. You just need to buy a cable or a tech 2. The tech 2 is cumbersome for past through programing. I have been considering getting a genuine mongoose cable for just that. I use a genuine tech 2 FWIW. Thanks for the comeback. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
someotherguy Posted October 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2016 I see how to wire it in but I guess the videos I watched don't really get too specific about how it works beyond that. The audio is coming in over the XM setting of the HU, but what keeps audio from XM itself from coming through? Because I'm not actually cutting the wires loose, just tapping into them, correct? (green/white, brown/white for audio, and black/white for ground) Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1FASTBRICK Posted October 23, 2016 Report Share Posted October 23, 2016 I am not sure. I personally have never done it. I believe on Youtube you solder the leads in somewhere and then use AUX or something. I have to look it up again. I also have a friend who knows more about this, I will ask him tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chpspecial Posted November 1, 2016 Report Share Posted November 1, 2016 you need this https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-1-8-stereo-panel-mount-phone-jack?variant=20332184005 adapter form radio shack, it has 5 pins to solder in. You then need to cut the three audio wires coming from the xm module. when an aux cable is plugged in, the xm feed will be cut out and your aux comes in, when you pull the aux cord out, the xm reconnects and you have XM again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
someotherguy Posted November 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2016 Thanks bud. I noticed one of the videos showed that 5 pin jack and I didn't snap to why that particular one was used until your post. I've got some regular jacks that aren't the interrupt/switching style like that; was considering using one since I already had it here and we don't listen to XM. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
someotherguy Posted March 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 Now that I put the factory stereo back in, I figured it was time to do the aux input hack. I don't listen to XM, no subscription, so instead of using the 5-pin cutout/pass-through jack, I used a plain 3-pin one and cut the wires. A length of scrap cat 5 ethernet cable and the jack is all it really takes. XM module easily accessible by releasing the glovebox door tab so it can open all the way down, unplug the module, and the 3 wires are black/white (ground), green/white (signal), brown/white (signal). According to at least one of the videos online don't use the first black/white wire in the connector which is at the edge, use the one next to it, which also happens to be next to the signal wires you're using. Once finished you do need to have the harness plugged back into the XM module or you'll get an XM error on the head unit and it won't let you switch to that input. Works fine and took maybe half an hour, though I gotta say at least in my case the audio level is disappointingly low. You can get it loud enough to listen to comfortably, but if you wanna crank it, it's more like half the level of playing a CD. I might experiment with adding a small pre-amp one of these days, and also possibly tacking on a bluetooth module which is stupid easy; I've already done that on my SRT8. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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