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Simple OEM Size Brake Upgrade...


CaptKirk
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Hey guys -

 

Yall are way more knowledgable than me and have way more experience upgrading stuff so I just wanted to ask some simple questions about these trucks brakes/rotors. My pads are burnt out and the rotors look very old, and 1 has very slight stress cracking so I doubt any shop is gonna let me leave without replacing them.

 

I'm considering doing some decent slotted rotors, oem style/aggressiveness pads, and maaaaybe SS lines if they're cheap, front and rear. I really only want to do this if I can do the work myself, no shop I talk to is willing to put on aftermarket parts like this even if they're the same size/process. If not I'll just bring it to a shop and let them ping me for oem replacement stuff.

 

My questions:

 

- I have a 2003...I've read places about some SSs with rear drums (for the ebrake?) and also discs, also people keep asking if the rear is single or dual-pot caliper? I can only see discs in the rear but unsure whether it's single or dual pot, and no drums. What exactly is going on back there on my truck?

 

- Do I just need to have the size correct on the rotor? Or is there more differences between the AWD and 2WD versions of the truck. I'm worried about ordering the wrong stuff online. Front is 12" and rear is 11"?

 

- I did this with all StopTech stuff on my s2000 and it was a breeze to order and do the job. There's too many options here, and StopTech doesn't seem to make stuff for our trucks. Recommended brands?

 

- Are centric ceramics a comparable oem replacement? I know oem is ceramic.

 

- Does this job require any crazy tools for these trucks? I have a pretty limited set of ratches/sockets/wrenches and I think my torque wrench goes to 140, maybe higher.

 

Thanks in advance sorry for the length

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Read this post and add a hydroboost to your setup and you will be good to go.

 

http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/74756-brakes-and-suspension/?gopid=830305&do=findComment&comment=830305

 

Site wide the opinion is that hydroboost is the biggest bang for the buck improvement to the brake system on our trucks.

 

http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/72659-hydro-boost/?do=findComment&comment=892229

 

Best luck with your upgrade project. :thumbsup:

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I reread your post and realized that I haven't answered all of your questions. Probably don't have all the answers, but I'll take on a couple of them.

 

I would stick with solid rotors myself. Drilled can cause problems with cracks, (slotted, the same problem IMO), and I don't think you will get much brake performance benefit from them, (Again; IMO). I feel you will get enough performance improvement from a larger solid disc upgrade and maintain the reliability of an OEM design.

 

There is a small drum built into the rear wheel discs and it is for the E-brake. I have read that they can be difficult to work on but have not tackled them myself, (But need to), and so don't have any personal experience with them.

 

The OEM upgrade parts in the links are direct bolt on parts and it is a straight forward and relatively easy project. It will be made easier with an air compressor and an impact wrench with a T-55 impact socket.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007QV2MF2/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_237?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A30DGJTMHYAU9C

 

(And plenty of the penetrating oil of your choice along with a hand held propane torch. (Alternately heating and cooling fasteners can help free up those fasteners).

 

I haven't figured out a personal preference on pads yet. They all create dust, and they all stop the truck. I can't imagine there being a night and day difference in them.

 

Try a google with silveradoss.com in the search. I know that there have been some pretty strong opinions voiced in the past on the subject of pucks but I can't remember if there was a strong winner named.

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I reread your post and realized that I haven't answered all of your questions. Probably don't have all the answers, but I'll take on a couple of them.

 

I would stick with solid rotors myself. Drilled can cause problems with cracks, (slotted, the same problem IMO), and I don't think you will get much brake performance benefit from them, (Again; IMO). I feel you will get enough performance improvement from a larger solid disc upgrade and maintain the reliability of an OEM design.

 

There is a small drum built into the rear wheel discs and it is for the E-brake. I have read that they can be difficult to work on but have not tackled them myself, (But need to), and so don't have any personal experience with them.

 

The OEM upgrade parts in the links are direct bolt on parts and it is a straight forward and relatively easy project. It will be made easier with an air compressor and an impact wrench with a T-55 impact socket.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007QV2MF2/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_237?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A30DGJTMHYAU9C

 

(And plenty of the penetrating oil of your choice along with a hand held propane torch. (Alternately heating and cooling fasteners can help free up those fasteners).

 

I haven't figured out a personal preference on pads yet. They all create dust, and they all stop the truck. I can't imagine there being a night and day difference in them.

 

Try a google with silveradoss.com in the search. I know that there have been some pretty strong opinions voiced in the past on the subject of pucks but I can't remember if there was a strong winner named.

 

Thanks for the extensive responses!!

 

I think I'll leave hydroboost for the later date... I know it sounds like the best bang for buck, but I'm just looking for reliable brakes on my daily. If my current setup fails however, that's a different story. I'll upgrade.

 

I'm a slotted-only guy if I ever go that route. May do it, may not here. depends on price. I believe in the benefit of the scraping action, I know all don't.

 

Drum in the back and the recommended air-tools/torch may stray me towards just letting a shop handle it. I would rather this not be a 10 hour learning experience....

 

I believe I found my same Stoptech setup I did on my car here: http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A2722A0A0.aspx

I'm half-faithful in the selections as it had an SS option..

 

In case I still decide to DIY:

 

Do we have a How-To? Or anyone care to post a few pics they may have taken doing their brakes? I found one How-to for pads on here but all the pics are busted.

 

Thanks

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I will add some more info:

2003 thru mid-2005 are rear disc (with an e-brake drum) and late-2005 thru 2007 are full drum.

 

The e-brake drum is much simpler then then full drums and I would not be discouraged by it.

 

Your rear will be dual piston caliper, but you need the 330mm diameter rotor. They also offer a 325mm diameter but it is too narrow for our setup.

 

The only tool I remember using is a 18mm wrench/socket to remove the caliper bolts. My older truck used a T-55 socket, but I have not used that on my SS (assuming the previous owner didn't swap the hardware out).

 

I'm curious about this "scraping action" the slotting provides, because my understanding is the slots are there to allow the gases to escape so the pads don't hydroplane on the rotor surface

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Interested in this too. Is there an exploded view of the rear brakes anywhere? I noticed last time i crawled under my truck the inner most brake shields on mine are rusting through and also need to be replaced. So need something that list complete parts assembly.

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I will add some more info:

2003 thru mid-2005 are rear disc (with an e-brake drum) and late-2005 thru 2007 are full drum.

 

The e-brake drum is much simpler then then full drums and I would not be discouraged by it.

 

Your rear will be dual piston caliper, but you need the 330mm diameter rotor. They also offer a 325mm diameter but it is too narrow for our setup.

 

The only tool I remember using is a 18mm wrench/socket to remove the caliper bolts. My older truck used a T-55 socket, but I have not used that on my SS (assuming the previous owner didn't swap the hardware out).

 

I'm curious about this "scraping action" the slotting provides, because my understanding is the slots are there to allow the gases to escape so the pads don't hydroplane on the rotor surface

 

 

I took a look at that StopTech link this morning, and when selecting 1500,SS in the drop-down that listed part # 126.66045SL. Looking up the specs on that, it is the thicker 330mm rotor that you want.

 

 

Thanks for the info and doublechecking those numbers, good to know because 5mm is a tiny difference I wouldn't have thought it mattered.

 

FWIW I called StopTech yesterday and although their catalogue he was looking at didn't have an 03 SS option, they had an 04 and I was pretty sure they were the same. Glad to have that confirmed. He said if that's the case just use the part #s from the 04 off their web catalogue.

 

As for the scraping thing, I've heard that argument, and I've heard of the gasses too, but I forgot about that until now. I dunno, I prefer slotted. It's probably what I'll get if I can.

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Interested in this too. Is there an exploded view of the rear brakes anywhere? I noticed last time i crawled under my truck the inner most brake shields on mine are rusting through and also need to be replaced. So need something that list complete parts assembly.

 

I have a few shots of this from an online manual, not an exploded view, but a step-by-step.

post-26536-0-00055300-1473434351_thumb.png

post-26536-0-44396200-1473434352_thumb.png

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Called AutoAnything to have someone help me out with building a package deal with all the correct part numbers that their site lists for the individual parts for the SS submodel. There's a discount on these packages but they didn't have an SS option. They were happy to put one together for me.

 

Stoptech slotted rotors and their street performance pads 4 corners = 480 shipped to my door. Not the cheapest option, but I like StopTech's stuff ever since I did the same job along with SS lines on my previous vehicle.

 

They had stainless lines but it was another 140. I figure I'll see how much better the brakes feel after this, and maybe do those later. It's only my daily after all, I'm not building a track monster, and the oem lines aren't leaking or damaged.

 

As a comparison, every shop that quoted me to do regular pads and refinish my old rotors was gonna charge me about 500+/- 50 for the job. As I said before they probably wouldn't have let my old rotors slide though, and then who knows where the price would have gone.

 

If I have time I'll take some good pictures throughout the install and make another how to with working pictures. This link is dead and it's only for pads: http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/19755-how-to-change-your-brake-pads/

 

 

Thanks for everyone's help.

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Definitely look into the hydro boost upgrade its night and day to the vacuum setup way more power to the calipers new pads and rotors are great maintenance but if the calipers don't clamp harder the uneasy feeling of not stopping in emergency situations isn't going to change.

 

I've owned my truck since 2006 and have done the brakes a hand full of times and when I did the hydro boost upgrade first ride I was thinking this is what was missing the whole time I've own it wish I knew about it years ago.

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Yeah, I suppose I will look into it afterwards. Once I am ready to have another project with the SS I'll do that and probably some bolt ons with a tune. Hard to save up money for this it usually falls into my other project car. But I'll get around to it maybe after the holidays.

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I can tell you this from experience. Do not buy slotted rotors. They look cool and that's it. They crack and I didn't notice any difference when I had them!

I even had them on my truck now and do to price I went with the solid ones.

Wish I did the hydroboost setup also. But the truck is long gone

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I can tell you this from experience. Do not buy slotted rotors. They look cool and that's it. They crack and I didn't notice any difference when I had them!

I even had them on my truck now and do to price I went with the solid ones.

Wish I did the hydroboost setup also. But the truck is long gone

 

What manufacturer?

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Yeah I gotta say I'm not feeling the slotted causes cracks thing unless they were just some knockoff brand that were low quality to begin with.

 

Now drilled rotors, absolutely, especially aftermarket stuff. There are some OEM drilled and slotted that do just fine (Porsche does it) but these days drilled is all about bling and not needed in any way for performance. Old high performance pad compounds emitted a lot of gas and it had to go somewhere; drilled rotors helped.

 

Slotted does help prevent buildup of pad material on the rotor (which can make the rotor feel "warped") when you're really beating on them. Several OEM slotted applications and no issues with cracking. If you buy trusted brands then you should be just fine.

 

Richard

Edited by someotherguy
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