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Re routed catch can now I'm getting blue smoke


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Hello everyone.For a while now I have been wondering why I was catching so much oil in my catch can turned out I had it set up wrong. I had the passenger side(fresh air) and the driver side connected to a T fitting that hooked up into the IN part of the catch can. The clean air was correct it is hooked up to the top of the manifold and to the OUT side of catch can.

What I did was drill a hole in my intake tube put a fitting in it, sealed with rtv and hooked it up to the passenger side head, simply removed the t fitting and kept the driver side hooked up to the IN part of the catch can.

Since then my truck has had a constant blue smoke. Only at idle once I'm driving it goes away. Did I do this wrong? I followed the instructions off the TBSS manifold swap in our forum. I have the tbss mani on my Lq4 and that's how he set his up.

I heard blue smoke is bad, valve seals, guides or piston rings. But my engine is rebuilt everything is new only 3.4k miles on the new motor. Has milled heads,cam etc. This blue smoke can't be cause by O2 sensors can it? Sam Miller tuned it, said b1 s1 and b2 s1 aren't working properly, I replaced them before the blue smoke and they still don't show up on his computer so my truck will die when I come to an abrupt stop due to 1 sensor sending too much fuel to one side. I always thought the blue smoke was gas since it smells like it and burns my eyes and nose. Any who does anyone know what it could be? It had blue smoke every now and then on start up just like the first 2 seconds then go away and now it's only at idle.

 

Any help/suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

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Blue smoke is oil, I am not a sc expert. When you over fuel you get black smoke (soot). Not sure what to tell you but it is definitely oil that your burning not sure why though....

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Sounds to me like you still have it hooked up wrong. A stock cam will create the most vacuum at idle.

 

I don't know if I read your setup right or not. Is it vented or a sealed can?

 

If it is a non-vented can, you should have a fresh air into the passenger side valve cover (out of your air filter, I prefer to put a breather on the oil fill), and then run a line out of the pcv port on the drivers side valve cover to the "in" side of the catch can. Then on the "out" side run it to the manifold, but in this line you will need a check valve. The check valve is really only needed with a boosted system but is a good failsafe. After doing this, you will need to cap off the line from the throttle body to the drivers side valve cover also.

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I have it set up exactly how you said. I have the nnbs manifold swap on mine too so I didn't have to worry about plugging the pcv by the throttle body cause this manifold doesn't have one, and I have a ported ls2 TB which also doesn't have the Lil nipple to plug.

So what kind of check valve should I be using any recommendations?

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Damn, I don't have a great answer for that one. I bought one originally about 8 years ago from the local parts store. I just took my hose in and told one of the guys that knew his head from his butt what I was looking for and he found it.

 

Now I run a vented can and I just run both valve covers to the can and vent. Nothing returning to the engine.

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I heard some people use the valve from the brake booster for our trucks I might give it a try but man I really hope I can get this sorted out lol its embarrassing pulling up at lights all bad ass cammin and shit then blue smoke coming out my pipes **** lol

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I heard some people use the valve from the brake booster for our trucks I might give it a try but man I really hope I can get this sorted out lol its embarrassing pulling up at lights all bad ass cammin and shit then blue smoke coming out my pipes **** lol

LOL most people probably thinking, damn that trucks about to die and then see the smoke too.

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