marcello7x Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 (edited) So I've noticed a fair amount of leaking on the Output of my trasfercase. When i was replacing the seal i found that i had quite a bit of play, then it continued leaking after the new seal as well. So i know Im in for a rebuild. Im at 215k, and have no idea if its ever been rebuilt[assuming probably once]. I plan on a new rear half, rear bearing and new chain. Although i may just order a full new rebuild kit with all the bearings. Suggestions on where to purchase the whole kit? Edited September 15, 2015 by marcello7x (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1BAD2K Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 With that many miles, I would spring for the entire kit...also, I would check the viscous coupler itself. They make a tool to test it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 (edited) Here's an old thread with some good T-case info in it. (In case you haven't read it already). Well cr@p. I guess it would help if I could remember to add the link. http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/69278-bulletproof-nv149-rebuild/ Edited September 16, 2015 by Downeast Johnny (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwd_mbtch Posted September 20, 2015 Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 Transtar sells parts for those. I'm getting ready to do mine. I got a bearing/seal kit, filter, thrust washer and chain from them. Along with a upgraded pump from american powertrain warehouse to prevent it from rubbing a hole in the back case. I get employee pricing at my local chevy dealer and the parts available from them were pretty expensive. I did not get a viscous coupler because I only have 62k on mine. I was taking it apart to put in the new input shaft for my 4l80e swap and figured I might as well rebuild it while I'm in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwd_mbtch Posted September 20, 2015 Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 (edited) Transtar #'s Bearing kit (with seals)-BK196 Filter- 381012 Chain- HV-072 Thrust washer- 381241 Pump-381500 Viscous coupling- 381550 Case protector plate- 482460 " " clip- 411460 (Guess they offer 2 options there, I already had a pump case I mentioned above) Rear case housing- 401760A-2 NOTE* I have the NP149 t-case. Don't really think there's a difference, but I'm no expert. Edited September 20, 2015 by wwd_mbtch (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted September 20, 2015 Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 Transtar #'s Bearing kit (with seals)-BK196 Filter- 381012 Chain- HV-072 Thrust washer- 381241 Pump-381500 Viscous coupling- 381550 Case protector plate- 482460 " " clip- 411460 (Guess they offer 2 options there, I already had a pump case I mentioned above) Rear case housing- 401760A-2 NOTE* I have the NP149 t-case. Don't really think there's a difference, but I'm no expert. Thanks for the part numbers. That's handy info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcello7x Posted September 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 The rebuild was very straight forward and easy!!! Mostly do to having rebuild a 5sp VW transaxle i've rebuilt multiple times. But regardless its simple. The hardest part was getting the big c-clip/snap ring on and off through the case.I did not replace the Big bearing on the input/rear output shaft. I didn't have the bearing tool and did not want to wait for one to come in the mail/ it was late and no where locally had one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted September 28, 2015 Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 Good to hear that you got it done. I've heard that there is a special tool to deal with that snap ring. Did you do it with regular snap ring pliers? (I've heard it's do-able with regular ones). You replaced the tail shaft case? If so; Where did you get the new one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thickcajun Posted September 29, 2015 Report Share Posted September 29, 2015 Well my tranny took a shit on me 3 weeks ago... Lost 3rd and 4th after just spending 3300 for a rebuild... They blamed it on the transfer case... Said the bearing on the input was shot and sucking oil into the t-case causing me to run low and eventually causing the failure... I call bullshit but what ever they are rebuilding it now hope to have it back by the weekend... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted September 30, 2015 Report Share Posted September 30, 2015 Well my tranny took a shit on me 3 weeks ago... Lost 3rd and 4th after just spending 3300 for a rebuild... They blamed it on the transfer case... Said the bearing on the input was shot and sucking oil into the t-case causing me to run low and eventually causing the failure... I call bullshit but what ever they are rebuilding it now hope to have it back by the weekend... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Dang Bryan, Sorry to hear that. Have you checked your T-case fluid for the tranny fluid? Tell them that they should have checked the T-case input shaft bearing. Hope they take it easy on you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thickcajun Posted September 30, 2015 Report Share Posted September 30, 2015 They did Johnny... T case was full and the input bearing was shot... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted September 30, 2015 Report Share Posted September 30, 2015 Too bad they didn't check it the first time they rebuilt the tranny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xr4tic Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 The rebuild was very straight forward and easy!!! Mostly do to having rebuild a 5sp VW transaxle i've rebuilt multiple times. But regardless its simple. The hardest part was getting the big c-clip/snap ring on and off through the case. I did not replace the Big bearing on the input/rear output shaft. I didn't have the bearing tool and did not want to wait for one to come in the mail/ it was late and no where locally had one. I just did this, replacing all the bearings, and I wouldn't say it's easy, unless you have the proper tools, which I didn't. If you don't do the bearings it's easy, but then it's not a rebuild is it? I bought all the stuff from APW, here's the list: 1 x NP241 NP243 NP246 NP244 NP261 NP263 NP149 NP144 TRANSFER CASE CHAIN BORG-WARNER HV072 NEW 1 x NP149 NV149 TRANSFER CASE REBUILD KIT FITS ALL WHEEL DRIVE '01-'07 GM TRUCKS & SUV'S 1 x NP149 NP246 NP261 NP263 TRANSFER CASE SAVER: PUMP PLATE KIT BY SONNAX 1 x NP149 NV149 TRANSFER CASE PUMP FITS ALL WHEEL DRIVE '01-'07 GM TRUCKS & SUV'S (29074) 1 x NP149 NV149 TRANSFER CASE FILTER FITS ALL WHEEL DRIVE '01-'07 GM (29747) 1 x NP246 NP149 NP136 NP208 NP231 NP241 NP261 NP263 MUNCIE SUPER T10 TRANSMISSION & TRANSFER CASE EXTENSION HOUSING BUSHING (WT297-62 Some notes from my rebuild: I used AutoCraft Lock Ring Pliers from Advance Auto Parts to remove the retainer ring I used a bearing puller from Harbor Freight, it barely fit, and messed up the edges of the reluctor wheel. I'm hoping it's not bad enough to cause an issue. If you decide to go this route, I would recommend buying a new reluctor wheel from APW ($28) The new pump probably wasn't needed, but I got it anyways, I didn't know what to expect. The Sonnax pump saver is a nice kit, but I didn't read the instructions in time, you have to pull the pump apart but I had already assembled the new pump onto the shaft and wasn't going to remove the bearing again. I ended up buying the BRNY plate and using that. The tail housing bushing was an absolute &^%$^#@ to remove and replace. I had to use a dremel to cut the old needle bearing out of the back case. There's another needle bearing inside the shaft, I didn't even bother trying to remove it. The factory bearings had a dust seal in them, the Koyo bearings don't, I hope they're OK without it. APW sells a new rear magnesium housing, with the bushing and needle bearing already in it. Dorman makes an aluminum replacement as well, but I've heard issues with the speed sensor not fitting/sealing properly. I don't know if the APW housing has that issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 I just did this, replacing all the bearings, and I wouldn't say it's easy, unless you have the proper tools, which I didn't. If you don't do the bearings it's easy, but then it's not a rebuild is it? Thanks for the parts list and notes on your rebuild John. That's some good info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaze_v8 Posted November 23, 2015 Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 Give or take how much does this rebuild cost? My chain gave out on me and im looking to rebuild, just trying to gather some more info. I called around and everyone quoted me around a grand. Also how do these part numbers work?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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