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kaze_v8

Solution to Lowering AWD SS

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So as some have said before, I just might have the lowest AWD SS around, simply because I cannot seem to find any logical reason to get rid of AWD.

Anyways, after lowering my truck "4/5" potentially lower than that, simply because I used lowering keys in the front. I recently replaced both axles in front, and about a month later they blew again, except both this time.

 

Started doing some research and jumped from idea to idea, as I was close to buying some 2500$ axles, to using some lousy axle spacers, even trying to lengthen my axles, to finally doing some research and finding out that NNBS front CV axles, are about 1.5 inches longer, and are a direct fit on our trucks.

 

Pic for reference:

 

15640251_large.jpg

 

So im not sure if anyone had ever mentioned this before, but I figured it would be nice to share with those who have always had to settle with a 3 inch drop in the front.

 

I will be swapping in axles this weekend, and seeing if I finally found a solution to my problems.

From what I read, these axles are direct fit, and even have better angles than NBS CV axles.

Anyone whos tried this feel free to chime in. Cant wait to install mine.

Edited by kaze_v8

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I hope this works out. Anxiously waiting to here back with your report

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I bought those 2500$ cvs Hopefully thats a cheaper option

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That is good to hear. I hope this is a good solution for us.

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I bought those 2500$ cvs Hopefully thats a cheaper option

How are those axles holding up? I almost jumped on them as I figured I want to push some serious power, and didn't want to have to be worrying about axles in the future.

 

Ill keep you guys updated im actually pretty excited about this.

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How are those new axles holding up?

Are you alive bro? LOL JK JK!

Keep us posted cause we all would love to lower the AWD SS

Edited by pepz559

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i use the djm 3 inch arms with belltech spindles. 5 inch drop. When you use keys and spindles tweeks angle to much

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Bad news gentlemen.

 

Sorry for the late reply, but my hypothesis was wrong.

I first tried putting the axles in by unbolting them, and slipping it in, and I needed about a 1/2" in order to slip the back of the boot in, and it didn't work.

Secondly I removed the top control arm so the spindle would come forward a little, and after getting the axle in, it became nearly impossible to put the ball joint back into place.

I tried to lift the rotor up all the way in order to simulate the extreme angle that the axles would be in and see if itll slip in that way, but te jack would ultimately lift the entire truck as opposed to lifting the hub assembly.

 

Maybe some of you guys might have a different approach, but realistically speaking I only need about an extra inch of length to solve the issue, but the axles are 1.5" longer.

I know they will work, because the guys who lift NBS trucks use this method as a solution, the problem is getting the axle in.

I figure its easier for the lifted truck guys because the suspension is dropped down, and when unbolted the suspension sags even more.

In other words, the angles theyre getting are the exact same as ours, except the other way.

 

Idk what you guys might think I can do.

Edited by kaze_v8

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Bad news gentlemen.

 

Sorry for the late reply, but my hypothesis was wrong.

I first tried putting the axles in by unbolting them, and slipping it in, and I needed about a 1/2" in order to slip the back of the boot in, and it didn't work.

Secondly I removed the top control arm so the spindle would come forward a little, and after getting the axle in, it became nearly impossible to put the ball joint back into place.

I tried to lift the rotor up all the way in order to simulate the extreme angle that the axles would be in and see if itll slip in that way, but te jack would ultimately lift the entire truck as opposed to lifting the hub assembly.

 

Maybe some of you guys might have a different approach, but realistically speaking I only need about an extra inch of length to solve the issue, but the axles are 1.5" longer.

I know they will work, because the guys who lift NBS trucks use this method as a solution, the problem is getting the axle in.

I figure its easier for the lifted truck guys because the suspension is dropped down, and when unbolted the suspension sags even more.

In other words, the angles theyre getting are the exact same as ours, except the other way.

 

Idk what you guys might think I can do.

Wonder if a machine shop could shorten it for you to make the length you need? If spline part too long I would think they could machine down.....

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Wonder if a machine shop could shorten it for you to make the length you need? If spline part too long I would think they could machine down.....

Im gonna see how safe that is, to shave down the part that bolts to the front diff. The spline to the hubs are not the issue, theyre almost identical to the NBS axles.

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There is a company on ebay that sells the axles that are 1 inch longer than stock for $175 each,

Ad says it's an OEM remanufactured/modified part.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-GM-EXTENDED-1-INCH-CV-AXLE-SHAFT-HALFSHAFT-00-06-CHEVROLET-SILVERADO-HD-/291546184497?hash=item43e181bb31&vxp=mtr

In the ad, it also makes it seem like you can choose .5" up to 2" extended length. Pretty cool!

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