GI.SS Posted March 14, 2015 Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 Turbo guys anyone have a picture of exactly how they plumbed their feed while still utilizing the factory oil cooler? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aldofashow Posted March 14, 2015 Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 (edited) I got the dirty dingo oil feed seemed like a good price to at $69. im using it for a supercharger but it's labeled for turbos it go's between your block and oil cooler Edited March 14, 2015 by Aldofashow (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKSSS Posted March 14, 2015 Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 I know I suck at helping you guys. But I drilled a hole into the oil block. Then tapped it with a 1/8" fitting to a #4 fitting and ran a #4 line up to the turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GI.SS Posted March 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 You got a picture of Where exactly you drilled and tapped yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKSSS Posted March 14, 2015 Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 I am going to work I a few hours. I will take a pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopnewton Posted March 14, 2015 Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 here's what I got http://www.shop.trickperformanceproducts.com/Turbo-Oil-Adapter-OIL-COOLED-TRUCKS-Turbo-Oil-Cooled.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aldofashow Posted March 14, 2015 Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 here's what I got http://www.shop.trickperformanceproducts.com/Turbo-Oil-Adapter-OIL-COOLED-TRUCKS-Turbo-Oil-Cooled.htm thats another good one forget drilling and tapping save that for the return Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKSSS Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 Yep. Well I failed again. I forgot the pics yesterday. You can order the adapter or just used your existing tools and drill and tap it. Then get a 5 dollar fitting. And when you drill your oil pan for the return line. Remove the pan. I spent like 3 hours drilling my pan. Being as careful as possible. And still got shavings into the pan. So either remove it and drill. Or remove it and have the fitting welded on. Then you have let spots for leaks. And with boost your lower end will see a pound or two of pressure. Oil leaks will happen. Just do your best to prevent them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aldofashow Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 Anybody ever run there return to the knock sensor plate under the intake or does it need to be lower to return to the oil pan faster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKSSS Posted March 16, 2015 Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 Your return is gravity fed. So it has to be lower than your turbo. Other wise you end up using a scavenging pump like on the sts kits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aldofashow Posted March 16, 2015 Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 I'm thinking my head unit will be mounted above that plate I was more worried about it getting the oil back down to the oil pan fast enough I know it's gravity feed i just didn't know if anyone has returned it through there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKSSS Posted March 16, 2015 Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 Don't worry about the speed of the oil flow. You would be amazed at how small the amount of oil is in a #4 line feeding your power unit is. I usually try to run my oil about 1/2 over full anyways. Your motor will never know different. Side note. Biggest problem with oil drains are line size. Especially in cooler climates. If you have a chance to see anything cooler than freezing temps you need a large free flowing drain or you will push oil past the seals in your head unit. I used a #10 return with sweeping fittings. No tight bends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GI.SS Posted March 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 I got the LJMS oil line kit. I think it's -12 return? and the final fitting will need to be welded to the pan. It came with all fragola fittings and even one to tap for feed. I was just curious if someone had a picture of how they tapped theirs while keeping oil cooler functional. http://www.liljohnsmotorsports.com/ljms-t6-s400-standard-cover-mild-steel-accessory-kit.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aldofashow Posted March 16, 2015 Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 (edited) Looking at this diagram the bottom of my head unit looks to be close to the same level with the bottom of the throttle body think that's high enough to drain to the knock sensor plate or does it need more gravity to drain Edited March 16, 2015 by Aldofashow (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKSSS Posted March 16, 2015 Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 I had to run braided lines from my trans to the cooler to go around the turbo drain. And if the drain is a #12, lol. You won't have an oiling problems. Other than trying to get that line ran. Test fit the line. Have the turbo just mocked up. I have to have my oil drain hooked up to the pan first. Then install the top part of the oil return to my turbo as I am bolting it down to the manifold. Things get slightly tight on that side. I don't think that vortech would have enough down hill slope to gravity feed fast enough. Just my opinion. It might work. I have been wrong before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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