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Aldofashow Again


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I've never noticed mine leaking but I'm gonna go through it today and see what I can find I always just cleaned the carbon off the valve itself and reinstalled them and was afraid to mess with them but having all the o-rings oil seals and the fact that one of the power valve cables is sticking on the mag side I'd have to say maybe heat from the pipes might cause something to happen I'll let you know what I find today been researching anything about power valves all night to prepare myself to fix the problem

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I've never noticed mine leaking but I'm gonna go through it today and see what I can find I always just cleaned the carbon off the valve itself and reinstalled them and was afraid to mess with them but having all the o-rings oil seals and the fact that one of the power valve cables is sticking on the mag side I'd have to say maybe heat from the pipes might cause something to happen I'll let you know what I find today been researching anything about power valves all night to prepare myself to fix the problem

I found sticking to be caused by two things with our power valves... One is excessive carbon buildup on the valve and head itself were the valve goes into and two a worn out cable or fraying of the cable at the power valve but rarely in the servo itself... Oh another way they may stick is improper installment of a valve upside down... The oil spitting out is not a lot, just enough after a season of riding to see it on the chrome pipe cover... We can talk about SRX's all day... I do all the work myself and try to do research before attempting any backwoods remedies lol... So far my clutching is a mixed bag of hauk and bender parts and a 4200 engagement... I have destroyed a few belts and one so bad I thought I had a shotgun went off under my hood and blew my belt cover off taking my speedo cable with it... I might need to change some things still lol

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My front clutch is stock except for a yellow EPI spring with 4500 engage and back is stock set at 6-3 90degree twist feels better then stock now I wanna gear it 1 tooth less on the drive shaft gear for a little more top speed has more torque then you can use now it's stock 23t-38t with a 70 link chain I wanna swap to 23t-37t with a 68 link chain my chain adjustment is almost all the way in probably 8000mile chain

 

She's running really good right now I'm not sure my power valves servo is working I think it's stuck open might need a new servo and lubed the cables but I'm gonna get some new ones there was a couple that needed some love and got them to Bounce back but I'm thinking they burnt out the servo motor put all new gaskets o-rings and oil seals defiantly a good idea to replace those when cleaning the power valves and I'm gonna get three new power valves cause there getting ready to let the cables pull through on one of them and another one looked like the barrel piece on the end of the cable was twisting in another one I figured it would be better stuck open then closed i can ride it right now but I'd like the power valves to open and close as they were designed to

Edited by Aldofashow (see edit history)
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attachicon.gifImageUploadedByTapatalk1425236955.024371.jpgattachicon.gifImageUploadedByTapatalk1425236966.219987.jpgattachicon.gifImageUploadedByTapatalk1425236973.837467.jpgattachicon.gifImageUploadedByTapatalk1425237013.609503.jpg

 

My front clutch is stock except for a yellow EPI spring with 4500 engage and back is stock set at 6-3 90degree twist feels better then stock now I wanna gear it 1 tooth less on the drive shaft gear for a little more top speed has more torque then you can use now it's stock 23t-38t with a 70 link chain I wanna swap to 23t-37t with a 68 link chain my chain adjustment is almost all the way in probably 8000mile chain

 

She's running really good right now I'm not sure my power valves servo is working I think it's stuck open might need a new servo and lubed the cables but I'm gonna get some new ones there was a couple that needed some love and got them to Bounce back but I'm thinking they burnt out the servo motor put all new gaskets o-rings and oil seals defiantly a good idea to replace those when cleaning the power valves and I'm gonna get three new power valves cause there getting ready to let the cables pull through on one of them and another one looked like the barrel piece on the end of the cable was twisting in another one I figured it would be better stuck open then closed i can ride it right now but I'd like the power valves to open and close as they were designed to

I have an extra chain gear I am just not sure which one it is... I think when I bought it someone had a smaller gear on it and I couldn't get traction no matter what I did so I swapped back to the stock one or maybe its even a 39T idk... BTW- I believe going up a tooth would yield better top end and slower acceleration with our sleds.... But since acceleration from the hole shot with these beast are not a problem I think a 38-39tooth would be perfect for what you want... I never had to change the chain because I still had enough room to move on the tensioner... I'll double check tomorrow on what I got... I might take the ole girl for a rip as well hehe...

 

About your power valves, those are a must to get working on the SRX that's 10-20hp you are being robbed if they are not working properly... If that one is pulling through it needs to be replaced because it wont work properly with that extra slop..I have a SRX repair manual that shows how to adjust and check the servo for proper clearences... Too tight and you pull through and too loose they wont open when you need them too... Best way to check your cables and valves is to remove them completely from the engine and check to see if the cable moves loosely in the housing and the valve moves with it... Any resistance will cause them too stick while in operation... In idle I believe the servo motor should be bouncing back and forth you can take the servo cover off and still run it to see if it is working...

 

- Got this off of totally Yamaha for SRX's 98-99 has 23/37 00-02 has 23/38 If you drop your top gear 1 or 2 teeth you will also need a 68 link chain.If you go up 2 teeth on bottom gear you can still use your stock 70 link chain.22/38 would be 1.73 ratio.23/40 would be 1.74 ratio.Lot cheaper to change bottom gear and the ratio is almost identical.I have a 22 top and a 40 bottom if you are interested in either of them.Both are almost new.Only used for maybe a mile testing.

Edited by 2003_SuperSport (see edit history)
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Alan is great, very nice member that is true and honest. I also just switched to Amsoil sig series and absolutely love it. I would buy from you Levi but I am lucky enough to have an Amsoil dealer in town :chevy:

 

You guys that do not live in the snow need to move up north more, your missing out on the record amount of snow were getting. We even get to ride the snowmobiles on the interstate. My buddy just showed me his dragging sled, 50k engine on a 5k sled lol. And I thought my triple piped Mach Z was something...

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Alan is great, very nice member that is true and honest. I also just switched to Amsoil sig series and absolutely love it. I would buy from you Levi but I am lucky enough to have an Amsoil dealer in town :chevy:

 

You guys that do not live in the snow need to move up north more, your missing out on the record amount of snow were getting. We even get to ride the snowmobiles on the interstate. My buddy just showed me his dragging sled, 50k engine on a 5k sled lol. And I thought my triple piped Mach Z was something...

That's cool man. I understand. I'm glad that you use it, like it and share your support of the products.[emoji106]
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That's cool man. I understand. I'm glad that you use it, like it and share your support of the products.[emoji106]

 

I have to admit the Amsoil is much better than Mobil1 IMO. Much more fluid response on the rpms. I have the drop in filter Amsoil filter now, may have to step it up to the next level which I would ask you for help Levi :chevy:

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I have an extra chain gear I am just not sure which one it is... I think when I bought it someone had a smaller gear on it and I couldn't get traction no matter what I did so I swapped back to the stock one or maybe its even a 39T idk... BTW- I believe going up a tooth would yield better top end and slower acceleration with our sleds.... But since acceleration from the hole shot with these beast are not a problem I think a 38-39tooth would be perfect for what you want... I never had to change the chain because I still had enough room to move on the tensioner... I'll double check tomorrow on what I got... I might take the ole girl for a rip as well hehe...

 

About your power valves, those are a must to get working on the SRX that's 10-20hp you are being robbed if they are not working properly... If that one is pulling through it needs to be replaced because it wont work properly with that extra slop..I have a SRX repair manual that shows how to adjust and check the servo for proper clearences... Too tight and you pull through and too loose they wont open when you need them too... Best way to check your cables and valves is to remove them completely from the engine and check to see if the cable moves loosely in the housing and the valve moves with it... Any resistance will cause them too stick while in operation... In idle I believe the servo motor should be bouncing back and forth you can take the servo cover off and still run it to see if it is working...

 

- Got this off of totally Yamaha for SRX's 98-99 has 23/37 00-02 has 23/38 If you drop your top gear 1 or 2 teeth you will also need a 68 link chain.If you go up 2 teeth on bottom gear you can still use your stock 70 link chain.22/38 would be 1.73 ratio.23/40 would be 1.74 ratio.Lot cheaper to change bottom gear and the ratio is almost identical.I have a 22 top and a 40 bottom if you are interested in either of them.Both are almost new.Only used for maybe a mile testing.

servo motor works fine just some new cables and she'll be good cables should be here any day now sucks no yamaha dealer has them
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