D1SCSS Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 You cannot beat the sound of a Maggie whining down the road. Then when you think it can't get any better go into a tunnel and stomp on it again. You will be smiling from ear to ear and pissing off old ladies at the same time. (Don't ask me how I know this...lol) I haven't heard a Maggie on a SSS, but I do know that my D1 has a hell of a whine that gets people on the sidewalk to turn and look from 1-2 blocks away!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2bfast Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 (edited) Welcome First off stay away from nitrous Pros and cons of a magnacharger. They are great for low end torque and will shred tires along with netting decent 60ft times. Also they dont need as much torque converter stall speed as they are a positive displacement blower which is why they create so much low end torque. They are fun little blowers Cons are they are they generate alot of heat and are hard to keep IATs down especially on thr top end. There are alot of options to help combat this issue I.E blower spacer, methenol injection, coolant chillers, larger heat exchangers ect. But i havent seen much success on these or rather repetitive success. Procharger. Great efficiant centrifugal blower and make decent ready to bolt on kits. They are somewhat generic and dont have a lot of choice parts to go with it. Such as blow off valve, intercooler, ect. Con is being a centrifugal blower they do not make as much low end torque as a positive displacment blower and you will need a much larger stall speed to get in your power band where the power is made and to get into boost to get the truck moving. Once you get a desired stall speed you will blow off your tires. No matter what blower you go with, compressing air causes heat and the number one goal is to lower IATs. Like above, some cause mor than others which is the nature of the beast. As far as transmissions. Going the 80 route would be a wise choice as they are pretty hard to break. Although thry take some fabbing and other parts to make it work it is still the best route by far and plenty have done it You could get away with buying a used 4x4 unit and install a shift kit and go. I think the level 5 from FLT is wayyyy overkill. Plus I would go with a Jakes 4L80 anyday. Hes the 80 guru. You will need a better fuel system no matter which way you go. As far a shop, MC Racing has had a good rep and they have a really good tuner there. If I was in KC still he would be tuning my shiz. His name is Justin Kalwei and goes by Justune. Get on youtube and type in Justune Red dragon.Needless to say hes pretty good at it. And hes a pretty decent guy. Also MC Racing is a Procharger dealer and is where I got my head unit and bracket from. Got a pretty good price for it. Also I see you have Kansas plates. They are in KCK off of 35 if I remember and also Procharger is in Olathe. I used to live 3 blocks from them. Edited December 23, 2013 by 2BFAST (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcapone Posted December 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 Welcome First off stay away from nitrous Pros and cons of a magnacharger. They are great for low end torque and will shred tires along with netting decent 60ft times. Also they dont need as much torque converter stall speed as they are a positive displacement blower which is why they create so much low end torque. They are fun little blowers Cons are they are they generate alot of heat and are hard to keep IATs down especially on thr top end. There are alot of options to help combat this issue I.E blower spacer, methenol injection, coolant chillers, larger heat exchangers ect. But i havent seen much success on these or rather repetitive success. Procharger. Great efficiant centrifugal blower and make decent ready to bolt on kits. They are somewhat generic and dont have a lot of choice parts to go with it. Such as blow off valve, intercooler, ect. Con is being a centrifugal blower they do not make as much low end torque as a positive displacment blower and you will need a much larger stall speed to get in your power band where the power is made and to get into boost to get the truck moving. Once you get a desired stall speed you will blow off your tires. No matter what blower you go with, compressing air causes heat and the number one goal is to lower IATs. Like above, some cause mor than others which is the nature of the beast. As far as transmissions. Going the 80 route would be a wise choice as they are pretty hard to break. Although thry take some fabbing and other parts to make it work it is still the best route by far and plenty have done it You could get away with buying a used 4x4 unit and install a shift kit and go. I think the level 5 from FLT is wayyyy overkill. Plus I would go with a Jakes 4L80 anyday. Hes the 80 guru. You will need a better fuel system no matter which way you go. As far a shop, MC Racing has had a good rep and they have a really good tuner there. If I was in KC still he would be tuning my shiz. His name is Justin Kalwei and goes by Justune. Get on youtube and type in Justune Red dragon.Needless to say hes pretty good at it. And hes a pretty decent guy. Also MC Racing is a Procharger dealer and is where I got my head unit and bracket from. Got a pretty good price for it. Also I see you have Kansas plates. They are in KCK off of 35 if I remember and also Procharger is in Olathe. I used to live 3 blocks from them. Thanks very much for that info. I actually live right down the street from ProCharger...132 & Blackbob. I actually already stopped in to MC Racing right after I got my truck home about a month and a half ago. I spoke to a guy about a ProCharger and he sent me an email quote for around $6,800.00 for the install and tune but I wasn't sure if they were a reputable shop and wanted to check them out first. So thanks for that too. Glad you could enlighten me about the 4L80 overkill. I just got on FLT's website and saw that was the beefiest one they made and thought that would be the way to go. I'll check out Jake's website and see what he recommends. I really do appreciate your help and everyone else who has responded. Thanks very, very much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcapone Posted December 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 Also, I'll keep everyone posted on what I decide. I'll upload some pics once I get the hood and gate AND of all the mods. The hood should be arriving the 30th. If any of you guys haven't seen them yet, you'll have to check it out...they're f***ing awesome! Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 The hood and gate are indeed very fine. Glad that they are staying on the site. Looking forward to pic's and progress reports on the mods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcapone Posted December 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 Yes. When you call them to irder a 1900, you can upgrade the head unit to a 2300 for like $600 more What's the advantage of the 2300 over the 1900? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jovanny Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 What's the advantage of the 2300 over the 1900? MOOO POWAH ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcapone Posted December 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 FYI - The rep. from Magnuson and the distributor advised against running the 2300 on our engine. The Rep. told me everyone she knew who worked there ran the 1900 on our motor. The distributor I'm buying mine from ($5,700.00 delivered to my door) told me the gain would not be that significant and it would actually take longer to spool up than the 1900 off the line. Although he would have sold me the 2300, he said it just wasn't worth the extra $600.00 in his opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2bfast Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 This is where more stall speed would come into play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JC03SS Posted December 24, 2013 Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 In my op I'd go 2300. Like Brian said get some more stall. It's all about matching the parts up to perform to the best of there ability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcapone Posted December 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 Good info. Thanks. My game plan is to order the Maggie the first week of Jan. from a distributor in Cali. that the Maggie rep turned me onto. He's saving me about $400.00 off msrp. Then I'm going to install it myself to save some $ as they're telling me I should be able to handle it. Then order the tranny from Jake's as you suggested, take it all up to MC Racing and let them do the heads, cam, tune, tranny install, mods to the driveshafts etc. I'm hoping MC can do all of that for the 5 or 6k I'll have left. Do any of you guys have an idea how much the engine work I'm wanting to have done SHOULD cost me with MC Racing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcapone Posted December 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 ...or maybe leave the blower off until they do the engine work first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brentd Posted December 24, 2013 Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 (edited) I say if you have 15 grand to mod, then you need to make the most of it, that kind of money and opportunity doesnt happen very often. Do a quick estimate of labor cost and see where that money could go in terms of one or two or five more things you could to the truck. Get a manual, get a torque spec sheet, and research your butt off. You can do heads and cam yourself if you watch installs on the internet, read how tos on LS1Tech, and ask some of these same guys giving you advice on this thread. Most people on here would be more than happy to answer questions. Go to the builds thread and check them out, you can quickly tell by reading through them who has the knowledge to offer you advice without risking your motor lol. If it isnt going to be your dd, then make yourself ok with putting her on stands in the garage for a while and do your own work. You will be a lot happier, you will become a lot more knowledgeable, and most importantly when someone asks who did your build you will be able to proudly say you did! Edited December 24, 2013 by Brentd (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcapone Posted December 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 Thanks for the boost of confidence! You may be right too. My BIGGEST concern is if I were to let a shop do the build that they would half @ss something or everything. I've been in construction for almost 30 years and am very meticulous with everything I do. I know how to use the tools, just never did any engine work and am kind of fearful of not doing something right, forgetting to do something or not being able to put everything back together once I get it all apart. Although I suppose I could set up my video cam as I'm taking everything apart! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brentd Posted December 24, 2013 Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 I have spent my driving life with the same apprehensions. I dont know when it clicked, but One day I was thinking about what I could do with what little money I had and came to the conclusion that I could do more if I would just do it myself. The key is taking pictures before you start pulling things, just snap a pic of EVERYTHING you unplug or remove so you know how it went on, use masking tape to label things you might accidentally swap around, and have a good torque spec sheet to work by. You can find a write up or how-to on almost anything with a google search, and a haynes manual will get you pretty far as well. I plan on doing all my work when it comes to heads/cam/intake/torque converter. I am confident in my ability to research as well as in my ability to follow directions. I learned that I shouldnt view it as rocket science. Tell you like someone told me.....can you turn a wrench and follow instructions? If yes, then go for it. Measure twice, hell three times, and cut once! Think of all the money you would save that could go into fuel system, a dyno tune, big brake kit or hydroboost or a million other things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.