Jump to content

Turbo build/questions


Recommended Posts

Ya makes sense. Thanks.

 

Ok so I hadn't planned on running an intercooler then I started thinking, what if i I ran an intercooler say 27x7x2.5 so it's long skinny, and thin. And I can run it "in line" with the charge piping. Underneath the truck, that would get enough air onto the intercooler to cool the incoming charge. And running an intercooler even if a smallish one is better than no intercooler right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I had that plan. You have the right idea. Wrong I/c. You need to go with a air to water intercooler. A barrel style.

Like this

post-16394-136173033508_thumb.jpg

 

You have to run the water lines to the I/c and between the heat exchanger and the water pump and the coolant reservoir.

I actually have most of the parts for a air to water setup I your interested.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well my plan is to build a piece of sheet metal over it that has slits, or is full of holes so that it's "protected" and still works, idk of have to play with that. But most of my roads are paved, not many gravel roads. I was looking at what it takes for an air to water intercooler, and I don't want that kind of hassle haha.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Run a air to air or a air to water inter cooler where there is air flowing through it. Mounting it under the truck will have no or little cooling and if your in traffic you will have tons of heat soak just from the radiating heat of the road and the truck. Best is to mount it as a front mount with a gap between the intercooler and the next closest object (radiator or another type of cooler or bumper) this will allow air to pass through it and not be bouncing off and around between it. Also on the rear setup heat soak will be a factor for sure. Mild or stainless piping that is coated will combat some of the heat soak but add to the cost significantly.

 

Sent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why would a rear mount have heat soak issues? Wouldn't it not because of the distance from the motor. And the ambient air coming from around the truck while driving? And if I built a piece of sheet metal over the "under the truck air-air" that had a scoop upfront catching air and making it flow through the intercooler. Wouldn't that help with heat soaking since the heat on the road would bounce off of that piece of metal. Or whatever I make it out of. Something can stay cooler than sheet metal. I don't want the hassle of a front mount intercooler which is why I'm doing a rear mount turbo so I don't have the under hood heat, I don't have to put a front mount IC on. And I don't have to buy/build a turbo mani. If I put an IC on it will be under the truck. Or even in the engine bay like a TOP mount or something. Which I think would be WORSE than under the truck? Cuz the engine bay gets hot. I think. An IC under the truck mounted at a 45* angle with the front (to the engine bay) is facing up which will catch the air. A metal sheet underneath it to help with road temps. Will work just as good a front mount? I could be 100% wrong and since I'm no expert I probably am. But it seems like it would work just fine? Thanks for your input. If my idea won't work. I womt be doing an IC till later on down the road. Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like you have a a lot good ideas. but a lot of this tells me you should just do a front mount. A lot of guys end up switching to a front mount after having there STS turbo setup's. really its not all that bad to do a front mount. I see guys even build their own kits with the stock exhaust manifolds. I would just heat wrap everything to keep temps down. rear mount turbos were big years ago, you don't see as many rear mounts around like we use to for a reason. A lot of guys have issues with this setup. oiling being one of the biggest issues. guys tend to run rear mount turbos do it so they don't have to run a intercooler. best of luck on your build. personally I'd save a bit more and jus go with a front mount.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Right this is my DD truck and I'm sure I could have a front mount I can keep my AC and all that but the fabrication would be a lot harder. I'm doing a rear mount because I don't know how to weld yet, all the fabrication would have to be taken somewhere to get done. I want to buy a welder soon and learn to weld. Before I attempted a front mount. I know I will switch. But not till I know more about turbo'd. And more about fabrication. I think a rear mount is already above my level of mechanical ability. But I think I can figure it out. And as for piling. STS first came out with a crapy pump that failed all day long. I will be running a turbowerx pump. It's damn expensive. But won't fail. My original pump the mocal pump. Would have failed. But after researching enough I found the right pump. And I've seen videos of rear mount setups. Running 25-30psi and making close to 900 rwhp. And having 0 problems. So I know there's power to be made. I just have to unlock the chest of answers and get it setup right. Haha. I know I should go front mount but I just think right the best bet for me is a rear mount.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't get the logic of building a scoop to re direct the air into a inter cooler under the truck. You will kill the fins with road debris, create very little cooling, and you don't have much room under there as it is. Think of it this way. You are running a charge pipe to the front of the engine from the turbo...... run a few extra feet of piping through a inter cooler in the front and be done.

 

Sent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It won't be any harder to Fab it up as a front mount intercooler than it will be to run all the piping. You can run a intercooler behind the front bumper to use the bumper grill area with no cutting of the bumper. If you want to do things right the first time run it in the front. And for the charge piping if you use silicone couplers make sure the ends of the pipe on each joint has either a roll groove or some sort of lip on it.

 

Sent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't remember what fits. You still have to have someone weld the mounting brackets together for you.

But I think it was. 27 inches wide that you could do. Like 27x12x3. You will have to take your front bumper off and measure it. It is really easy to do. There is 6 or 8 bolts to get the bumper off. Can't remember been a while. I know there was two down below the grille so the grille has to come out. And there is two bolts on each side of the bumper in from of the tires.

Pull it off and measure it. If you did it right. You could have the brackets made to bolt up to the tow hooks. That would be a great anchor point.

I did a 31x12x3 and I had to take my truck to a welder and have the frame notched and boxed back in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...