prestinb Posted November 14, 2011 Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 (edited) Just had a custom grind cam and Vigilante 3000 stall installed over the weekend and tuned. This cam is very large but drivability is great due to the tune. My primary concern was a nasty idle and sound followed by drivability and increased power throughout the RPM range. While this increased HP by 52 and TQ by 14 to the wheels, I was told that a FAST intake, TB, and fuel rails would do wonders since the truck intake is very restrictive with this new cam. I have no intention of ever using FI so please keep recommendations towards NA. I have attached the DYNO chart for reference with Base Run and After CAM Run. Don't want to cut any corners so my budget is open...but looking to keep it to just intake (size), throttle body (size), fuel rail, and injectors. Open to all ideas though 2006 GMC VMAX 2WD 6.0 LQ9, 3/4 Drop, 4.56 Gears, 33" Tire, Zippy Shift Kit, Billet Servos, Dynatech LT Headers, No Cats, Magnaflow Cat-Back, K&N CAI, 3000 Stall, Custom Cam - 235/239 .621/.624 112 +3 prestinb (Brandon) Brandon P. compare.pdf Edited November 15, 2011 by prestinb (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prestinb Posted November 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 (edited) Just had a custom grind cam and Vigilante 3000 stall installed over the weekend and tuned. This cam is very large but drivability is great due to the tune. My primary concern was a nasty idle and sound followed by drivability and increased power throughout the RPM range. While this increased HP by 52 and TQ by 14 to the wheels, I was told that a FAST intake, TB, and fuel rails would do wonders since the truck intake is very restrictive with this new cam. I have no intention of ever using FI so please keep recommendations towards NA. I have attached the DYNO chart for reference with Base Run and After CAM Run. Don't want to cut any corners so my budget is open...but looking to keep it to just intake (size), throttle body (size), fuel rail, and injectors. Open to all ideas though 2006 GMC VMAX 2WD 6.0 LQ9, 3/4 Drop, 4.56 Gears, Zippy Shift Kit, Billet Servos, Dynatech LT Headers, No Cats, Magnaflow Cat-Back, K&N CAI, 3000 Stall, Custom Cam - 235/239 .621/.624 112 +3 prestinb (Brandon) Brandon P. compare.pdf Bump...no one have any input on a suggested Intake, TB, injectors, fuel rail that would work the best with this combo? prestinb (Brandon) Edited November 15, 2011 by prestinb (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted November 15, 2011 Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 (edited) well, my first thought is why did you pick that cam? I'm running a cam that is close but just a tad more radical. Don't take this the wrong way, but your dyno numbers a pretty low for that cam. Their low because your starving that cam for air, its a heavy breather and needs to have mods to give it what it wants. The only benefit of starving it is, it controls the power band. You're going to find when you start to add mods to support that cam, your peak rpm will go close to or a little above 7000 and your 3000 stall is a baby stall for that cam. As a comparison, i dyno'd 425 to the wheels through the stock intake with a 224 cam It all depends on what your goals are for the truck, but that cam will support a low 12 second pass if you build for it. With that said, what are your plans and are you willing to jump into a set up that is more strip then it is street? With out knowing your budget or goals for the truck, i would start here. 1.875 headers, ARH 225 trick flow heads with a 65 cc chamber .041 head gasket Fast LSXRT intake to keep the shift points reasonable 102mm NW TB x-link 42 pound SVO green top injectors, min. 60 pound deka injectors for more then enough and e85 After market FPR, such as aeromotive or magnafuel with the vacuum line hooked up to help idle Aeromotive fuel rails because i like the o-ring seal not a pipe fitting 4000 plus stall with a triple disk lock up short tire, 28 ish your current gear is awesome zippy tune, But that is mostly a max set up. Things change with your goals and uses of the truck Also, do you have a wideband on the truck? Do you have HPT or EFI live for scanning? Is the truck in SD mode? Edited November 15, 2011 by shadowsniper3006 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prestinb Posted November 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 (edited) well, my first thought is why did you pick that cam? I'm running a cam that is close but just a tad more radical. Don't take this the wrong way, but your dyno numbers a pretty low for that cam. Their low because your starving that cam for air, its a heavy breather and needs to have mods to give it what it wants. The only benefit of starving it is, it controls the power band. You're going to find when you start to add mods to support that cam, your peak rpm will go close to or a little above 7000 and your 3000 stall is a baby stall for that cam. As a comparison, i dyno'd 425 to the wheels through the stock intake with a 224 cam It all depends on what your goals are for the truck, but that cam will support a low 12 second pass if you build for it. With that said, what are your plans and are you willing to jump into a set up that is more strip then it is street? With out knowing your budget or goals for the truck, i would start here. 1.875 headers, ARH 225 trick flow heads with a 65 cc chamber .041 head gasket Fast LSXRT intake to keep the shift points reasonable 102mm NW TB x-link 42 pound SVO green top injectors, min. 60 pound deka injectors for more then enough and e85 After market FPR, such as aeromotive or magnafuel with the vacuum line hooked up to help idle Aeromotive fuel rails because i like the o-ring seal not a pipe fitting 4000 plus stall with a triple disk lock up short tire, 28 ish your current gear is awesome zippy tune, But that is mostly a max set up. Things change with your goals and uses of the truckLSXRT Also, do you have a wideband on the truck? Do you have HPT or EFI live for scanning? Is the truck in SD mode? Nothing that you stated could every be taken the wrong way. Constructive criticism from others who have already "been there" is the reason why I am on this forum. If I already knew everything then there is no reason for me to be here I chose the cam out of recommendation based on my criteria of nasty sounding, drivability, and a non peaky cam that provides power throughout the RPM range. Is the LSXRT intake a 120mm? By using a .041 head gasket, would I be increasing compression? The truck was tuned using HP Tuners on a dyno. Thank you for all your input. prestinb (Brandon) Edited November 15, 2011 by prestinb (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted November 15, 2011 Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 (edited) the lsxrt is 102mm manifold but will use any 4 bolt TB or has an adapter plate to run a 3 bolt...but that would be pointless. The reason i said LSXRT is to control that cam. It is anything but a non peaky cam that provides power through out. With the correct mods it will pull like hell up top, above around 4000 with a long runner intake. I made the mistake of going with a 235-240 cam and then running a short runner victor intake. The results are 500+ to the wheels but your butt hole puckers everytime the motor shifts at 7200. And i have to run a 4500 converter just to pull a decent low 1.7 60 foot time. With all the rest of the mods i said a LSXrt would help to keep a flat torque curve, control the shift points and help you to run a little less stall. Yes the heads with a 65 cc chamber and the .041 gasket will raise compression and also help to control a large cam(and i credit to a well running stock cubed motor). But i also said that because i recommend trick flow heads. The makers of the heads recommend a .032 quench height from the top of the piston to the bottom of the head. I think the lq9 is designed at a 0 deck height(piston is even with the block at TDC), but i step mic'd my number one piston at +.008 from the block. By using a .041 head gasket i was able to damn near hit the recommend quench height and get the added and needed compression. This may be drawing a fine line of things to worry about....but every 3-5 hp adds up. Getting hpt and logging your truck with that and a wideband will be a huge asset to you in the long run. It seems like a lot of money for just logging, but trust me, you will be happy to tell your tuner its running 12.2 instead of 12.55 at WOT or 13.8 instead of 14.2 on the highway. But your right...i bet the truck sounds mean as hell with that cam Edited November 15, 2011 by shadowsniper3006 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted November 15, 2011 Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 Have you been to the track yet? Just curious. It looks like you're building a nice race truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prestinb Posted November 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 Have you been to the track yet? Just curious. It looks like you're building a nice race truck. Zippy, I have not been to the track with it yet...but will make a couple passes probably in the spring time once I get the engine complete...or is it ever complete??? Haha prestinb (Brandon) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krambo Posted November 15, 2011 Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 I feel you will find that more stall will help tons with that cam. Your gearing is helping but IMHO, more stall will really make that truck jump...if that is what you are looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prestinb Posted November 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 I feel you will find that more stall will help tons with that cam. Your gearing is helping but IMHO, more stall will really make that truck jump...if that is what you are looking for. That is what I am looking for Also, please excuse my ignorance as I am still trying to educate myself on everything. If I use a FAST LSXRT 102mm intake and 102mm NW TB, do I need a X-Link 2.1? I have been reading on these and see that they are necessary to open the TB blade to 100%....will it only open ~85% without? prestinb (Brandon) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prestinb Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 That is what I am looking for Also, please excuse my ignorance as I am still trying to educate myself on everything. If I use a FAST LSXRT 102mm intake and 102mm NW TB, do I need a X-Link 2.1? I have been reading on these and see that they are necessary to open the TB blade to 100%....will it only open ~85% without? prestinb (Brandon) Thought I would post the video of the dyno run so it can be referenced with the dyno chart from post #1. prestinb (Brandon) CLICK ON PICTURE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 yes, you need the x-link. http://www.torquerush.com/Purchase.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prestinb Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 yes, you need the x-link. http://www.torquerus...m/Purchase.html ShadowSniper3006, Thanks for the info! What is everyone using for CAI once you switch to a 102mm NW TB? prestinb (Brandon) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prestinb Posted November 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 ShadowSniper3006, Thanks for the info! What is everyone using for CAI once you switch to a 102mm NW TB? prestinb (Brandon) One more question...I think Do I need to have an aftermarket FPR when using an aftermarket fuel rail or is it just a best practice situation? prestinb (Brandon) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prestinb Posted November 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 One more question...I think Do I need to have an aftermarket FPR when using an aftermarket fuel rail or is it just a best practice situation? prestinb (Brandon) Zippy or ShadowSniper? Any insight on my last 2 (and final) questions ? prestinb (Brandon) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 (edited) I'm running the volant intake on my 102 and my buddy is also running a volant on his 102. The ID of the volant is very close to the 102 diameter, so it shouldn't have to much restriction based on diameter. If your running efans and no longer have the cowl on, the volant has a sharp 90 degree bend right in front of the tb, that I'm sure is not helping things and could be improved on with a expensive custom fabricated intake. I'm still trying to find someone who will fab me a 4.25 diameter intake tube in the area. If you do a search for like CAI wars or CAI dyno tests you'll see a great thread where the flow rates of the major intakes were tested. I think the GMPP won in this test. The reason i prefer the volant is the ram air ability. I'm really only familiar with the 03 fuel set up, I'm not sure how the 04 and up regs maintain pressure. Hopefully Zippy or Kevin is still checking in on this post and can help more. If your looking to save some cash, you should be able to use your stock lines with the LSXRT intake. It looks ok and will save you a ton of money. Figure the new rails and reg are going to be $400 alone, plus the fittings and lines, and i bet your close to another $200. I think there is a recent post were a guy just did this intake and posted a picture of the stock lines on it. Don't forget injectors, and when buying them make sure you ONLY buy injectors that the tuner has correct files for. By the way who is your tuner Edited November 22, 2011 by shadowsniper3006 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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