slowfive0 Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 (edited) I was wondering the same thing. I'm not sure how they modify those baskets, but if it still has the basket, I could see it getting sucked dry at those power levels. If you cut out the bottom, then the fuel slosh becomes a big issue with that long ass tank! That is why that surge tank seems like such a good idea. I'm curious about those big time..... Going to Ubly this Saturday actually. You're more then welcome to come. Originally, there were supposed to be about a dozen cars, then they started dropping like flies---LOL! Right now, it should be a 10 second supercharged mustang, 12 second Tahoe (looks like an SS) and myself for sure. Possibly 3 or 4 other of the Tahoe's friends too with fast cars/trucks. Let me know if you're interested. I've been procrastinating all year and now I'm thrashing to get my Methanol injection kit and e-fans on before the weekend....I'm going regardless though. I wonder if its sucking the supply line empty....is there a venturi on the basket still? There were some guys on the GTO/G8 board who were saying that you could use up all the fuel in the lines in 10 sec of WOT. Shawn keep me posted if you are hitting the track, I need to get out and dont want to be the only sss. Edited September 19, 2011 by slowfive0 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moregrip Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 (edited) HIs conveter on the drag radials is flashing from dead idle to about 3400 which is about perfect. His Circle D was supposed to be a 2600 or so an flashed to 4k or so and was looser than a good whore. The Vigilante is as tight as they could get it without going to diesel specs and it's awesome. To get 10's he'll need a 60' in the 1.5's which will come as soon as the fuel pressure is fixed. Once his fuel pressure is taken care of I expect a 10.9 to 11.2 pass to happen. Keep in mind this is only using the 3.2" front pulley. The IAT's still climb 50 degrees during the run, but alot of air is moving through. At stock weight with the fuel pressure fixed he'd already have a 10.9 pass. I still hold to this day that this is my opinion of the best setup in an SSS. It seriously idles and drives great with it's small cam, tight converter, and very big torque even when not in boost as it is a 408 with 10.3:1 compression. About your TQ converter comments.......the SS and my 2wd HD weigh about the same.......I'm running a PI Vig triple disc that brake/flash stalls at 2800 rpm and it feels (to me) like it takes to much pedal to get the truck moving.....maybe I'm getting old.....but 2800 flash stall I experience is quite a bit less than the 3400 flash in this setup and by your description is driving fantastic! In comparison the stock HD converter seem more responsive on the street and brake/flash stalled at 2500rpm.....maybe that's a duh moment.....but I didn't think a jump from 2500 to 2800 brake/flash stall would make such a difference daily driving. BREAK Great progress on your truck brother! Congrats on what sounds like a whole lot of fun! Edited September 23, 2011 by moregrip (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chpspecial Posted September 24, 2011 Report Share Posted September 24, 2011 About your TQ converter comments.......the SS and my 2wd HD weigh about the same.......I'm running a PI Vig triple disc that brake/flash stalls at 2800 rpm and it feels (to me) like it takes to much pedal to get the truck moving.....maybe I'm getting old.....but 2800 flash stall I experience is quite a bit less than the 3400 flash in this setup and by your description is driving fantastic! In comparison the stock HD converter seem more responsive on the street and brake/flash stalled at 2500rpm.....maybe that's a duh moment.....but I didn't think a jump from 2500 to 2800 brake/flash stall would make such a difference daily driving. BREAK Great progress on your truck brother! Congrats on what sounds like a whole lot of fun! STR or stall torque ration also play into the driving characteristics of a TC and is also part of the reason why a PI that has a close stall speed to stock drives so different. The STR is much higher than stock, and stock TC's do not even have any STR, which is another reason why the PI requires some slip to function. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowfive0 Posted September 26, 2011 Report Share Posted September 26, 2011 Great discussion and points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moregrip Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 STR or stall torque ration also play into the driving characteristics of a TC and is also part of the reason why a PI that has a close stall speed to stock drives so different. The STR is much higher than stock, and stock TC's do not even have any STR, which is another reason why the PI requires some slip to function. not sure I completely understand that explanation..... I did find this on the www........How does this apply? STR has been talked and argued about for many years. The following information is what we at Precision Industries have found by doing our own testing to be helpful for you to try to understand this subject. Our competitors must have a crystal ball to figure the STR of their torque converters. There are a couple of companies in the performance torque converter business that do have the capability to test STR, MOST DO NOT! Precision Industries happens to be one that does have. Our test dyno has the capability to test from 200 ft. lbs. of torque up to 900 ft. lbs. of torque. The other companies use dynamometers that vary from 100 ft. lb. of torque to approximately 300 ft. lb. of torque. There is an old GM printed sheet that has floated around our industry for about 10 years showing the STR of stock GM torque converters that were built back then. Our competitors either use this sheet or are guessing because they have no way of knowing what the STR really is. They also advertise STR's of 2.7, 2.9, 3.0, 3.2, etc. this is pure BS. All torque converter companies use the impellers, turbines and stators that come in the factory torque converters. In our tests we have never seen an STR over 2.55. Precision Industries do have torque converters with STR over 2.55 but these units have specially machined stators in them and are not worth the high cost for a street/strip application. If our competitors try to tell you differently just ask them to show you a picture of their test machine, not just a printout. The formula for STR is EXACT OUTPUT TORQUE ÷ EXACT INPUT TORQUE = STR. This requires a known power source and a data recovery system. STR is just what the name implies. The ratio of torque multiplication at stall. As soon as the turbine rotates (car moves) the ratio starts dropping rapidly until enough RPM has been reached for the ratio to drop to 1:1. The RPM that the ratio reaches 1:1 varies depending on other factors in and out of the torque converter such as impeller exit angle, stator design, impeller to turbine clearance, input torque (engine), etc. A fact that most everyone overlooks is that a torque converter does not make torque! It takes the torque the engine produces and multiplies it for a very short period of time. This is why some cars perform better than others with the same torque converter. Some car enthusiasts put all kinds of money in the engine, transmission, torque converter, NOS, rear end gears, etc. then want to cripple the torque converter by lowering the STR to try and prevent wheel spin on take off. This is as foolish as pulling off one of the plug wires. Why don't they finish the project and work on the rear suspension? Trying to tune your car by using STR is probably not very smart seeing how our competitors don't have a clue about what STR their converters have, after all the stock torque converter you took out of your car has a STR of 1.9-1.94. The best way to get the right torque converter for your car is to buy it from a company that has a large database of previous sales for your kind of car. Then tell the sales person what mods you have made and what mods you intend to make and let that person help with the decision. The key words here are large database. The "Johnny come lately companies" have no large database or experience with what works with these late vehicles. Why try to reinvent the wheel with your hard earned money when there is bound to be someone in our database that has the same mods as you do and their torque converter/engine combination ROCKS! At Precision Industries we found out 10 years ago that STR is not the most important consideration when deciding on a torque converter it is the whole COMBINATION! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ANGRYGREG Posted October 16, 2011 Report Share Posted October 16, 2011 Do you have to use the spacer for the 102mm throttle body to work on a jackshaft style TVS? Will the 102mm tb bolt on without the spacer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supersub Posted October 16, 2011 Report Share Posted October 16, 2011 the front flange on the front inlet REAR drive(jackshaft blowers) needs to be moved higher for proper clearance. A 90 mm will hit, some have chose to elongate the holes on all mounting surfaces to make it barely fit. That will not work for the 102mm throttlebodies. I made a new flange,welded and re powdercoated to make it look OE. For those with a radix or front inlet front drive TVS you can use the spacer and open up your exsisting flange. Proper sealing will still be maintianed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 About your TQ converter comments.......the SS and my 2wd HD weigh about the same.......I'm running a PI Vig triple disc that brake/flash stalls at 2800 rpm and it feels (to me) like it takes to much pedal to get the truck moving.....maybe I'm getting old.....but 2800 flash stall I experience is quite a bit less than the 3400 flash in this setup and by your description is driving fantastic! In comparison the stock HD converter seem more responsive on the street and brake/flash stalled at 2500rpm.....maybe that's a duh moment.....but I didn't think a jump from 2500 to 2800 brake/flash stall would make such a difference daily driving. BREAK Great progress on your truck brother! Congrats on what sounds like a whole lot of fun! My guess would be that your converter and his are built very similarly. Remember that he has a 408 with 10.3:1 compression. Leaving the boost out of the story his makes way more torque than yours and I can tell you from first hand experience that the torque difference between the 408 and 370 makes getting that much weight rolling massively different. To further go on this Adam can describe the difference between his low compression 408 and his current 408. This is part of the reason I stress the highest compression longest stroke motor you can get when you build one. You've probably forgotten how the stock truck drove, but the stock converter with the stock torqueless 364 feels like it requires alot of throttle to get moving. Greg, you next for big dog power? You're finally going to be getting to use the nice 408 inch motor you built with some real boost at it. I remember recomending the bigger inches for you when you built it and I hope you felt it was worth it. It's so nice to have that much power even when you're not in boost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ANGRYGREG Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 Greg, you next for big dog power? You're finally going to be getting to use the nice 408 inch motor you built with some real boost at it. I remember recomending the bigger inches for you when you built it and I hope you felt it was worth it. It's so nice to have that much power even when you're not in boost. This is the setup I want on my truck. I thought about doing a F1 procharger or turbo but I love these magnachargers and I have not had one issue with the radix. Ray has been very helpful and is going to help me get a kit together with his spacer and inlet. The only thing I am going to do different is try the ATI 10 rib pulley setup. This is a great thread and seems like a pretty good route to get a quick truck that can be driven every day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowfive0 Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Any further updates or personal bests from anyone? Great thread --- hate to see it die. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 Any further updates or personal bests from anyone? Great thread --- hate to see it die. He's in Canada, once the snow is gone he'll be out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowfive0 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 Damn Snow!!! lol He's in Canada, once the snow is gone he'll be out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowfive0 Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 Any updates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowfive0 Posted August 12, 2012 Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 Any updates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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