southsidemex23 Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 So today I started up my truck 05' ss and there was no oil pressure. The warning chime kept going off so I raised rpm and the pressure finally went up. There was no knocking g or valve noise of any kind. The whole time driving oil pressure kept going down whenever rpms dropped due to slow traffic and then picked right up once I got going again. I got to work turned off the truck let it sit for ten minutes then started it. And again no oil pressure. Raised rpms but this time oil pressure did not go up and valves started ticking and knocking so I turned it off as soon as it started doing that. Any ideas What it might be? I haven't done an oil change in like 5k miles. Could it possibly be plugged oil filter? Or bad oil pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprayed99 Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Bad oil pump most likely.... It sounds like the valve is hung open and it is not building pressure at low RPMs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southsidemex23 Posted June 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Bad oil pump most likely.... It sounds like the valve is hung open and it is not building pressure at low RPMs. How hard is It to replace? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprayed99 Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 How hard is It to replace? pull the water pump, crank balancer, timing cover, and lower the oil pan. It takes 4 10mm bolts that hold the oil pump to the block and 1-10mm bolt that retains the oil pick up tube. You should also be able to remove the center brace under the truck to lower the oil pan. Remember the 2 lowest bellhousing bolt on the transmission bolt into the oil pan. If you need more of a set by step I can provide that as well. you should replace the waterpump gaskets and you must replace the balancer bolt because they are torque to yield. Others will tell you to replace all gaskets. I have replaced anything but the above and have had zero issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprayed99 Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 (edited) Better yet her goes a better description. Make sure the truck is cool 1.Drain the radiator 2.remove the upper and lower radiator hoses 3. remove the water pump (6-10mm bolts) 4. remove crank balancer bolt (24mm) use either an impact or a large prybar to isolate the balancer from spinning and a breaker bar to loosen the 24mm bolt 5. use a heavy duty pulley puller and remove the balancer 6. remove the timing cover (their is 1-10mm bolt holding the harness on the right lower cover and another 2-10mm bolts from the bottom side that you cant see from the top). 7. remove the 2 lowest 15mm bolts from the transmission bellhousing that bolt into the oil pan 8. Drain engine oil and remove filter 9. Remove cross member under engine oil pan 10. Loosen all 10mm bolts and lower oil pan 11. remove 1-10mm bolt retaining the pick up tube 12. remove 4-10mm bolts retaining oil pump 13. while turning the oil pump counter clockwise pry down on the pick up tube to remove tube from pump. 14. replace the oil pump oring and reinstall oil pump reversing steps in #13 *DO NOT DAMAGE OIL PUMP ORING AND MAKE SURE IT IS FULLY SEATED* follow steps in reverse to complete. I'm sure I'm forgetting a few small things as I'm at my desk writting this. A good source for torque specs and other info. Remember this site is mainly f-body cars and vettes so a few things are different on trucks like the oil pump oring. You can order the parts you need from texas-speed.com and tell them you need. waterpump gaskets, truck oil pump oring, balancer bolt, and a new oil pump (you can do the factory LS6 or their ported pump either are good). www.ls1howto.com www.texas-speed.com Edited June 6, 2011 by Sprayed99 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2bfast Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Very nice Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cramer Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 (edited) Most importantly is to use the RED o-ring that you can only get from the dealer. GM Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring (2nd Design) 12584922 RED SEAL Specifics: * Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring ea. * Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (1999-2000 LS V8 engines with 2nd design pick-up tube) * Trailblazer (2003-2008 With LS V8 engine) * Hummer H2 (2003-2008) * Hummer H3 (2008 With LS V8 engine) * Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (2001-2008 LS V8 engines) * W- Body (2006-2008 With LS V8 engine - Impala, Lacrosse, Grand Prix) * Thickness = 4.20mm (0.165") ID = 20.69mm (0.815") Depending on how many miles are on the motor it might be a good idea to replace the timing chain while you're in there. $60 for a LS2 timing chain is a good upgrade. Good one Dan. You beat me to this... As I was typing. Edited June 6, 2011 by sinr98 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawnss Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 nice write up. it would help out a ton for somebody who has never done one. :pepsicheer: just wondering whats the problem with the green rubber O-ring? i have put 3 different motors in my truck always replacing them with the green o-ring and never had a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cramer Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Some people have no problems with the green o-ring. Others like myself did. It is an updated o-ring that takes the possible problem with the green o-ring not fitting right out of the pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprayed99 Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Most importantly is to use the RED o-ring that you can only get from the dealer. GM Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring (2nd Design) 12584922 RED SEAL Specifics: * Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring ea. * Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (1999-2000 LS V8 engines with 2nd design pick-up tube) * Trailblazer (2003-2008 With LS V8 engine) * Hummer H2 (2003-2008) * Hummer H3 (2008 With LS V8 engine) * Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (2001-2008 LS V8 engines) * W- Body (2006-2008 With LS V8 engine - Impala, Lacrosse, Grand Prix) * Thickness = 4.20mm (0.165") ID = 20.69mm (0.815") Depending on how many miles are on the motor it might be a good idea to replace the timing chain while you're in there. $60 for a LS2 timing chain is a good upgrade. Good one Dan. You beat me to this... As I was typing. the 05 trucks have the updated timing chain and Texas-speed can get you the correct oring not just the dealer stocks it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprayed99 Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 nice write up. it would help out a ton for somebody who has never done one. :pepsicheer: just wondering whats the problem with the green rubber O-ring? i have put 3 different motors in my truck always replacing them with the green o-ring and never had a problem. Maybe thats the reason you have put 3 engines in LMAO...J/K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southsidemex23 Posted June 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 First off sprayed99 thanx for this great info. I will begin teardown process today. Have just a couple questions though. The ls2 timing chain on the Texas speed site.. should I get the adjustable double roller or the single non adjustable. What do u guys suggest? What's the dealer part number for the ls2 chain? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprayed99 Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 First off sprayed99 thanx for this great info. I will begin teardown process today. Have just a couple questions though. The ls2 timing chain on the Texas speed site.. should I get the adjustable double roller or the single non adjustable. What do u guys suggest? What's the dealer part number for the ls2 chain? IMO you dont need it. Your truck is a 05 which is when they changed over several parts for what now we call "LS2" parts like the rods and the timing chain. If you feel you must upgrade it here is the chain. Also if you are going to change the chain you might as well inspect the sprockets as well. Worn teeth can also give you "slack" in the chain http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=620&catid=53 it is much better to call them as all the individual parts they stock are not listed on the web. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprayed99 Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 another thing you can do to diagnose this issue is hook up a pressure gauge to verify that the sending unit is reading correct, but if you have audible ticking then is alomost always the oil pump. If it is a knocking it could be a main bearing, but it doesn't sound like that is the case from your brief desicription. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southsidemex23 Posted June 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 After everything is insttalled how do u prime the engine with oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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