Jump to content

Z06 Brake Conversion


rudy91040

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

No loctite needed. A small dab of anti-seize is also recommended. Torque spec is I've seen, is 27 lb-ft. FYI, a lot of the Corvette guys recommend not pulling the pad retainer bolts due to them seizing up and stripping the bolt heads. I've read that many owners pull the two caliper mounting bolts, remove the caliper from the disc, swap pads and reinstall.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All done! For those of you thinking of doing this upgrade, I highly recommend it. Rudy, all I can say is, PERFECTO! The brackets worked flawlessly, The calipers were dead-on center.

 

The only issue I had was with both front and rear flexible brake lines. They simply aren't compatible with the port location on the new calipers. The front lines had to be attached by turning the block 180 degrees around and away from the original routing, thus taking up original slack built-in to allow full left-right steering range. I had to remove the brake line from the bracket on top of the spindle and remove the bolt from the bracket holding the brake line at the top of the A frame. As a temp fix, the lines are anchored with wires ties. The rear brake lines have a straight 2" line (stainless- aluminum?) that when installed, blocks the upper caliper mounting bolt... so you must attach the caliper first, torque it and then attach the brake line. When you do this you can't put the 33 ft lb torque on the banjo bolt. I tightened the bolt until it stopped dripping and then gave it another 1/4 turn. Now there is no way to re-torque the calipers later unless you remove the brake line, which would required new crush washers. Ass pain. Even though I was able to make them work, I need to replace them with a braided hose. Any ideas?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All done! For those of you thinking of doing this upgrade, I highly recommend it. Rudy, all I can say is, PERFECTO! The brackets worked flawlessly, The calipers were dead-on center.

 

The only issue I had was with both front and rear flexible brake lines. They simply aren't compatible with the port location on the new calipers. The front lines had to be attached by turning the block 180 degrees around and away from the original routing, thus taking up original slack built-in to allow full left-right steering range. I had to remove the brake line from the bracket on top of the spindle and remove the bolt from the bracket holding the brake line at the top of the A frame. As a temp fix, the lines are anchored with wires ties. The rear brake lines have a straight 2" line (stainless- aluminum?) that when installed, blocks the upper caliper mounting bolt... so you must attach the caliper first, torque it and then attach the brake line. When you do this you can't put the 33 ft lb torque on the banjo bolt. I tightened the bolt until it stopped dripping and then gave it another 1/4 turn. Now there is no way to re-torque the calipers later unless you remove the brake line, which would required new crush washers. Ass pain. Even though I was able to make them work, I need to replace them with a braided hose. Any ideas?

 

How is your brake pad contact? Do you have 1/4 of the pad hanging off? Or did you get it to work?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I get the same overhang as everyone else, the fix would be for Baer or someone else to manufacture a rotor 1/2 larger, or drill the brackets so they are a 1/4 closer to the center. I think there's room to do that. Don't get me wrong, I'm not faulting Rudy's brackets. They certainly make the installation idiot proof. Overall, I'm very satisfied. Need to find replacement brake lines.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can you do me a favor please? Can you take some pics of the mods you had to do to make everything work as well as general shots of the whole rotors and calipers and email them to [email protected]? Full size is best so I can zoom in on them. You are the first person that has ever had these issues and I'd like to try and figure out why and what I can do to help you and prevent others from having issues. I can't say for sure, but it may be as simple as you using the stock rubber lines. I know all installs I've done were with braided lines. I can't say with 100% certainty that everyone else that has done the Z06 swap has used braided lines, but I would venture to say that a vast majority do braided lines at the same times.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will do. It's going to be a couple of weeks though. I just ordered the Belltech 2" drop kit and since I'll have to disassemble everything up front I will be doing the brake line swap then. I'm pretty sure I'm just going to make my own using Russell fittings and braided hose.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i would like to get these brackets for my 06 TBSS, and my Sierra NBS. Unless i skipped the part where it was mentioned,i haven seen where you can buy the brackets. can you shine some light on this matter?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Looking for a set of these brackets, but I am also wondering if CTS-V brake calipers would work with these? I am under the impression they're basically the same brake setup? CTS-V calipers are a lot easier to find

Sorry, they don't. The CTS-V Brembos and the Camaro Brembos are very similar other than the mounting hole size. But neither are even close the the Z06 calipers. If you want to get the brackets and hardware, drop me a line at [email protected] or pm me your email address.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...