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rudy91040

Z06 Brake Conversion

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I venture to guess that when the pads were 1st installed, that even being off centered, there was no rubbing taking place. Just as you pointed out, the pads themselves stick out further than what the guide pins do. I imagine what happens is with the caliper off center, when the pads wear down is when the issue arises and in the case of some performance pads, is pretty quick. I believe JF-03-SS used Hawk pads, as most of us did at that time. It just may be another good reason to use the available one piece pads and get rid of the guide pins. Of course paying attention and centering the calipers is probably a more feasible and economical solution.

 

With a fixed caliper if it doesn't rub when you first installed it, then it shouldn't ever rub since the caliper doesn't move. Maybe I'm missing something. I'll have to check it out in person.

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With a fixed caliper if it doesn't rub when you first installed it, then it shouldn't ever rub since the caliper doesn't move. Maybe I'm missing something. I'll have to check it out in person.

 

No, you’re right it shouldn’t. Something is surely happening in some of these instances though and from your 1st point, the pads are thicker than the pins are long, the only way I can see them coming into contact with the rotor is if and when the pad thickness is reduced from wear to less than the pin height. It shouldn’t change things I know, but there has been damage from it and something is allowing it. In the cases where there was damage, the calipers possibly could have been pushed out far enough that the inner pads were already dragging on the rotors and having accelerated wear, ultimately allowing the pins to touch or in other words when installed, the pins would have already touched the rotors if there were no pads installed and the only thing keeping it from happening instantly were the pads. I do understand your point and maybe you can figure out what causes it, but I’m sure without having your hands on a vehicle that has suffered from this damage it may be hard to get a grip on it. The best bet in my mind regardless is to ensure the calipers are centered.

 

Don’t take my post as being argumentative, it’s not designed to be so, I hope you can come up with an idea as to why some may have had this issue. I was lucky and did not.

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No, you're right it shouldn't. Something is surely happening in some of these instances though and from your 1st point, the pads are thicker than the pins are long, the only way I can see them coming into contact with the rotor is if and when the pad thickness is reduced from wear to less than the pin height. It shouldn't change things I know, but there has been damage from it and something is allowing it. In the cases where there was damage, the calipers possibly could have been pushed out far enough that the inner pads were already dragging on the rotors and having accelerated wear, ultimately allowing the pins to touch or in other words when installed, the pins would have already touched the rotors if there were no pads installed and the only thing keeping it from happening instantly were the pads. I do understand your point and maybe you can figure out what causes it, but I'm sure without having your hands on a vehicle that has suffered from this damage it may be hard to get a grip on it. The best bet in my mind regardless is to ensure the calipers are centered.

 

Don't take my post as being argumentative, it's not designed to be so, I hope you can come up with an idea as to why some may have had this issue. I was lucky and did not.

 

 

 

Oh no, no problem. I don't take it as being argumentative. I welcome all comments and concerns. I learn a lot from others and some of the best ideas I've had are from bouncing not so great ideas of others and hearing their response. I don't mean to beat a dead horse, I just want to make sure I understand as much as I can. I never would have imagined the guide pins dragging as a possible problem. So it makes me look at things a little different when it comes to design, fit, etc.

 

I was actually kind of thinking something similar to what you said about the pads holding the pins off the rotor. What may have happened is that the installer never checked that the rotor was centered. They simply installed the pads in the caliper and placed the loaded caliper on the rotor. Then they tightened the mounting hardware pulling the mounting surfaces together. This would preload the entire caliper and make the inner pads drag as you suggested. Then as the pads wore down the pins would start to make contact.

 

What I do know is this. With a fixed caliper, when properly mounted, if it doesn't rub anything or bind when installed it is impossible for it to start rubbing or binding at any point after since it is fixed and doesn't move, unless something fails or there is an impact to one of the brake components.

 

You are right, double check the rotor is close to center and nothing binds or rubs before the pads are installed.

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the part # for the rotors is....:) JK If you are serious and want to do this, contact supersub and he will get you the rotors drop shipped directly to you. The part number was found after much searching, so its out there. Its not like you are getting these rotors from autozone.

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the part # for the rotors is....smile.gif JK If you are serious and want to do this, contact supersub and he will get you the rotors drop shipped directly to you. The part number was found after much searching, so its out there. Its not like you are getting these rotors from autozone.

 

Is this like some secret? I mean there a ton of info how to do it but no rotor info. I mean if am selling a product where it relys on me buying other parts and you say go ask someone else and i dont know I just sell the brackets. and here is how to install em but the rest of the shit you are fuct on. Makes me not want to buy the product at all

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Is this like some secret? I mean there a ton of info how to do it but no rotor info. I mean if am selling a product where it relys on me buying other parts and you say go ask someone else and i dont know I just sell the brackets. and here is how to install em but the rest of the shit you are fuct on. Makes me not want to buy the product at all

 

I understand your feelings, but the gentleman is only making the bracket kit's and making them available so that people do have the option using the Vette calipers on their trucks and to hold that against him is not right. As is the nature of the beast, you're already going to have to piece everything together when doing this conversion. The brackets from one source, the rotors from another, the calipers from where ever you decide to purchase them and the banjo bolt's and crush washers from the dealer. After all that, you will still have to go out and get the pads. There is definitely no one-stop shopping with this conversion.

As far as the rotor's themselves go, while you could purchase them directly on your own, Ray, after figuring out what would work, secured decent pricing on them and has been passing on the deal to others. So in reality, you're better off just contacting him and buying a set vs trying to source them yourself and paying full retail.

Edited by Bear

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I understand your feelings, but the gentleman is only making the bracket kit's and making them available so that people do have the option using the Vette calipers on their trucks and to hold that against him is not right. As is the nature of the beast, you're already going to have to piece everything together when doing this conversion. The brackets from one source, the rotors from another, the calipers from where ever you decide to purchase them and the banjo bolts and crush washers from the dealer. After all that, you will still have to go out and get the pads. There is definitely no one-stop shopping with this conversion.

As far as the rotor's themselves go, while you could purchase them directly on your own, Ray, after figuring out what would work, secured decent pricing on them and has been passing on the deal to others. So in reality, you're better off just contacting him and buying a set vs trying to source them yourself and paying full retail.

 

 

Um, the beginning of the post it states whose rotors to use. But no part number etc. When I email Baer they are like which rotors do you need? If I was marketing something for sale and hey if you use this imaginary part. You can put corvette brakes on your truck. You would think they designed them to work with a particular rotor. They would know which rotor part number etc. I completely understand piecing it together hence what I am trying to do. I am going to be in phoenix in Oct and was going to stop by Baer to pick them up since they mention on their website discounted prices if you stop by and see their new facility. I don’t think I am asking for too much I mean I want to buy the items this guy is selling but without some basic info. I am inclined not to.

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Sorry about the delay guys. I've been busy. I posted the part numbers on the first page. I in no way intended to withhold any info. I just didn't have the part numbers in front of me at the time I wrote the how-to. If anyone is upset that I didn't post part numbers and simply said to talk to Ray (aka supersub) I'm sorry. The reason I refer people to Ray is for multiple reasons. For one he offers the rotors at the best price I found when I was looking for the rotors. Two, he is the one that helped make the front conversion brackets what they are and is the reason Baer rotors are even used. If it wasn't for Rays leg work everyone that did the conversion would have a 1/2" of brake pad hanging off and unmatched rotors. Third, I refer people to Ray because I know he will sell you the right part and will get it shipped to you asap with no issues. He won't try and sell you the kit with Baers stock caliper relocation bracket and if there are any issues at all he will go the extra mile to make it right. When I first started making these brackets I asked Ray a ton of questions. He answered every question I had and then some and never asked for anything in return. I asked if he wanted any royalties and he said not to worry about it. There aren't many people I know that would turn down free money. All in all I still say Ray is he guy to see for these rotors. Anyone wanting to the conversion can go anywhere they like. I simply refer Ray because buying from him and dealing with him gives me peace of mind. It's like finding a good mechanic. You walk away knowing your money went somewhere good and that if there are any problems it will be taken care of.

Edited by rudy91040

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Great write up! I do have a question maybe someone can answer. I have an 07 with drum breaks on the rear. Any info how to convert the drum to disk while up-grading at the same time?? Any info would be great!!

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Great write up! I do have a question maybe someone can answer. I have an 07 with drum breaks on the rear. Any info how to convert the drum to disk while up-grading at the same time?? Any info would be great!!

I have almost everything you need to convert drums to the rear z06 brakes. all you would need else is the banjo bolts and calipers. I am selling my kit. LMK if interested.

Edited by 1BAD2K

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Whats everyone getting mileage wise on rotors, I am seeing alot of post about baer's rotors not lasting long and cracking plus the cost of said junk rotors is turning me off, talking to ssbc from what i hear better rotor for less..

 

rudy you got any rotor specs I mainly need a measurement from inside of rotor to axle flange face to inside rotor face.

 

If possible are you able to make adjustments to your brackets to accomodate a different rotor with same diameter if the offset is different?

 

If so i can do the leg work on my kit....

 

Thanks

PFC Coss

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I dont know if Ray still checks up on his brakes :) but if you are worried about the rotors you could step up to the two piece rotors...

 

The baer web site is really good too...a bit of looking and you could put 6 piston brakes on the flinstone-mobile

 

http://www.baer.com/

http://www.baer.com/products/components/img/custom_hat_template.jpg

 

http://www.baer.com/technical/templates/index.php

 

 

some six piston info

Designed for rotor diameter’s of 13.5” (343mm) to 16” (406mm) by 1.250” (31.75mm) thick.

 

great mod, some good guys keeping the part going, and jelous vette owners staring at your brakes...priceless

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