!!!!!!!!!!WARNING!!!!!!!!!!
This how-to does not include all necessary steps and procedures. I wrote this to help show anyone interested, the basic steps to convert a 2005 Silverado SS stock brake system to use C6 Corvette Z06 brakes with Baer rotors using the brackets I produce. Your particular application may be slightly different. It is your responsibility to check the torque specifications. I will not be held responsible for anything that you do to your vehicle or any occurrence as a result of you performing this modification. Adapter brackets produced by others will require a different procedure.
Front Brake Conversion
Parts List:
Baer rotor part numbers:
front right- 6910962 qty (1)
front left- 6920962 qty (1)
Z06 Corvette caliper part numbers:
front left- GM- 19211015 or ACDelco- 172-2423 qty (1)
front right- GM- 19211016 or ACDelco- 172-2424 qty (1)
banjo bolts:
GM- 11569590 qty (2)
crush washers:
GM- 21012386 qty (4)
Thread-locker:
Loctite 2422 (or similar) qty (1)
Step1:Remove your wheel.
Step 2: Unclip the ABS wire from the hose bracket at the top of the spindle. Then unbolt the bracket.
Step 3: Remove the two bolts that mount the caliper assembly to the spindle. After the bolts are removed, place the caliper assembly on top of the upper control arm.
Step 4: Remove the stock disk.
Step 5: Using the supplied 14 mm x 70 mm bolts,, mock up the adapter bracket to the spindle.
Make sure the adapter bracket is sitting flat against the spindle. If there is excess casing material around the caliper mounting surface of the spindle simply remove it with a hand grinder until the bracket sits flat. Do not grind the adapter bracket.
When the bracket sits flat install the bracket using the supplied 14mm x 70mm bolts, 14mm washers and locking nuts. Torque to 133 lb.-ft. When installed correctly, it should look like.
Step 6: Mock up your rotor, making sure you have the correct rotor for that side. (Note the arrow on your rotor showing direction of rotation) Place a few 1/2" washers on a couple of the studs and thread on the lug nuts to help hold the rotor in place.
Step 7: Mock the Z06 caliper on the adapter bracket using the 14mm x 65mm bolts and check for clearance between the rotor hat and pad retaining clips. If there is any rubbing simply bend the clips as needed. When done correctly it should look like this.
When proper clearance is achieved install the pad in the caliper and then mount the caliper using the 14mm x 65mm bolts and 14mm washers. Be sure to install the calipers with the bleed screws at the top of the top. If you Install the left caliper on the right side the bleed screw will be on the bottom and you cannot properly bleed the brake system. Apply a small amount of Loctite 2422 or similar thread locking compound and torque to 129lb-ft. When installed correctly it should look like the pictures below.
Step 8: Connect the brake line using a Z06 Corvette banjo bolt and crush washers. The factory torque spec for the banjo bolt is 33 lb-ft.
After bleeding your brakes I recommend having a qualified shop re-bleed your system with a Tech II. Remember that when bleeding a caliper with dual bleed screws to bleed the inboard section first then the outboard section second. Also be sure to properly season your rotors and bed your pads properly. Baer Brake Systems has some really good info on seasoning here and pad bedding here.
Rear Brake Conversion
Parts list:
Baer rotor part numbers:
rear left- 6910526 qty (1)
rear right- 6920526 qty (1)
Z06 Corvette caliper part numbers:
rear left- GM- 19211017 or ACDelco- 172-2427 qty (1)
rear right- GM- 19211018 or ACDelco- 172-2428 qty (1)
banjo bolts:
GM- 11569590 qty (2)
crush washers:
GM- 21012386 qty (4)
Thread-locker:
Loctite 2422 (or similar) qty (1)
Step 1: Remove your wheel.
Step 2: Remove the bolts holding the caliper-mounting bracket to the axle and set the whole assembly to the side. There is enough slack in the line that you should be able to set it on your leaf springs.
Step 3: Remove the two emergency brake retaining brackets pictured below. The emergency brake shoe doesn't need to be removed completely, but I found it easier to work on everything with it off.
Step 4: At this point you have options. You can remove the dust shield completely or trim it to fit the bracket. There is more than one way to remove the dust shield but I will not cover them. If you decide to remove the dust shield, remove it however you decide and move on to step 5. If you decide to trim the dust shield then continue with step 4. Mock up the adapter bracket as shown in the picture with the factory caliper-mounting bolts. Finger-tighten the bolts. Mocking this up shows you where the dust shield needs to be trimmed. I've found that lining up the holes on a 1 3/4" socket and the adapter bracket and tracing the outside works well as a template for the clearance needed. Be sure to remove the adapter bracket while trimming the dust shield to prevent damaging the bracket.
Remove a little material at time as needed until you have something that looks similar to the picture below.
When you have most of the material removed you can mock up the caliper to check for clearance.
Step 5: Mock up your rotor, making sure you have the correct rotor for that side. (Note the arrow on your rotor showing direction of rotation) Place a few 1/2" washers on a couple of the axle studs and thread on the lug nuts to help hold the rotor in place. Mock up the caliper with brake pads and check for any clearance issues. Should you need to shim the caliper to center it over the rotor be sure to use a quality stainless shim washer to prevent rust and be sure it is as close to the size of the caliper mounting surface as possible. Most calipers will have a retaining clip that rubs on the rotor hat.
The outside brake pad retaining clip simply needs to be bent in slightly to prevent rubbing. When done properly, it should look like this.
Step 6: Remove the caliper, rotor and caliper adapter. Clean up any sharp edges from cutting the dust shield and remove any debris that may have accumulated in the brake assembly while working. I suggest using quality paint on any bare metal exposed from trimming the dust shield.
Step 7: Reinstall the emergency brake shoe and retaining clips. The screws appear to have locking compound on from the factory them so I put a tiny drop of Loctite 242. Don't over tighten them.
Step 8: Install the caliper-mounting bracket to the axle housing. The factory torque specs are as follows:
Caliper Mounting Bracket Bolt Rear –
Axle code JC3/JC4 JC5/JH5 - 148 lb.-ft.
Here is the factory caliper hardware prep procedure:
Perform the following procedure before installing the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts.
A. Remove all traces of the original adhesive patch.
B. Clean the threads of the bolt with denatured alcohol or equivalent and allow to dry.
C. Apply thread-locker to the threads of the bolt.
Step 9: Install the rotor.
Step 10: Connect the brake line using a Z06 Corvette banjo bolt and crush washers. The factory torque spec for the banjo bolt is 33 lb-ft. Next, install the brake pads in the caliper. Last, bolt the Z06 caliper on to adapter bracket. Be sure to install the calipers with the bleed screws at the top of the top. If you Install the left caliper on the right side the bleed screw will be on the bottom and you cannot properly bleed the brake system. The factory torque spec is 129 lb-ft. The factory caliper mounting bolts come with a locking compound on them so I use Loctite 2422 due to the high temperatures our brakes may see. When finished it should look like the pictures below.
After bleeding your brakes I recommend having a qualified shop re-bleed your system with a Tech II. Remember that when bleeding a caliper with dual bleed screws to bleed the inboard section first then the outboard section second. Also be sure to properly season your rotors and bed your pads properly. Baer Brake Systems has some really good info on seasoning here and pad bedding here.
Note
There are variances in all vehicles that I cannot control. Double and triple check clearances and ensure mating surfaces are clean, flat and free of debris.
Re-check the torque values on all hardware after the first few heat cycles and then periodically after that.
To my knowledge, nobody has had to, but some vehicles may need an after-market proportioning valve and/or modify the setting of the Electronic Brake Control Module to ensure safe and optimum braking.
Please feel free to comment or ask if there is anything you don't understand, curious about, need more info, etc.
I have been getting a lot of questions about the Baer rotor part numbers and people not being able to find them online. I have yet to find a distributor that advertises the rotors only. You will most likely only find the Eradispeed kit. The normal Baer Eradispeed kit includes a relocation bracket to re-use the stock caliper. Since the Z06 conversion uses the Z06 caliper, there is no reason to pay the additional cost to include the Baer bracket since it won't be used. The part numbers listed for the conversion are for the same rotors that are part of standard Baer Eradispeed kit but without the Baer bracket. You will need to contact Baer directly or a Baer distributor for just the rotors. Last I checked the best price I found for the rotors was through Ray aka supersub on here. If I remember correctly, all four rotors were $1100 drop shipped to me straight from Baer. The price may have changed. Rays phone number is in his signature. It’s the best way to get a hold of him.
Edited by rudy91040, 02 October 2017 - 03:43 PM.