Turning Lq9 Into Ls2/Ls6?

[smoothdime]

I have been looking at future upgrades for the truck and was doing research on the TBSS intake swap. When I realized the small difference between our motor and theirs. so correct me if im wrong. if you swap heads, intake assy, and cam we would essentially have an iron block LS2? or LS6 without the light weight valves. so i guess my question is if you could score some new or used heads for $500-600, TBSS intake for $200-250, and swap in an aftermarket cam it would be the same output as a cammed LS2? what are your guys thoughts on this. i figured depending on cam choice with headers and other supporting mods it should be around 450hp at the crank. does this sound like a decent plan? i realize there are a million ways to mod these truck. just looking at getting my feet wet before i do a full out build. lets hear it guys. gary

Edited June 5, 2010 by smoothdime (see edit history)

[shadowsniper3006]

I have been looking at future upgrades for the truck and was doing research on the TBSS intake swap. When I realized the small difference between our motor and theirs. so correct me if im wrong. if you swap heads, intake assy, and cam we would essentially have an iron block LS2? or LS6 without the light weight valves. so i guess my question is if you could score some new or used heads for $500-600, TBSS intake for $200-250, and swap in an aftermarket cam it would be the same output as a cammed LS2? what are your guys thoughts on this. i figured depending on cam choice with headers and other supporting mods it should be around 450hp at the crank. does this sound like a decent plan? i realize there are a million ways to mod these truck. just looking at getting my feet wet before i do a full out build. lets hear it guys. gary

 

leave the intake on it, just upgrade to a 42 pound gm marine injector if you do heads and cam. A set of TEA ported ls6 heads would be the best with out going to an aftermarket head such as dart, edelbrock, or trick flow. The ls6 head gives you more compression then a stock lq9 head and a better combustion chamber then any other stock casting. Get a cam to match your goals for power band, such as maximum shift point and maximum stall required, and then match your stall to that cam and you'll have a great set up. If you do the heads it would be a good time to upgrade the lifters as well. The ls7 lifters are good for 90% of guys, untill you get into a wicked cam with high spring pressures, but you could use the cts-vr for a little better upgrade over the ls7. You'll need new push rods as well with the cam and head swap, make sure you measure right for the length, .030-.060 preload is what i would run. Don't forget to match your stall, or you'll be upset with the lag of a cam untill it "truns on". Also you stock trans could use some upgrades, a shift kit from zippy would be nice, but a finish line built trans would be the best option. The trans will be the weak link when you mod so take care of it early and then mod away.

 

Brad

[smoothdime]

i agree with everything you said. all of it is plannned in the future. why do you say to keep the truck intake? wouldnt any opportunity for a larger intake and throttle body be good? especially since they are alot cheaper than going to a fast setup. i guess what im asking is wouldnt the 243/799 heads and TBSS/NNBS intake be a good base to start with for future mods? staying N/A of coarse. i see alot of ls2 based vehicles with stock heads and intake putting down strong numbers so i figured a similar setup would be good for starters. i know ported ls6's would be best but i'm looking at doing it in stages. just swapping to some stock casting with a nice cam. then later sending them to TEA or WCCH. For right now id be happy with stock ls2 numbers. of coarse leaving me room to grow when its not enough I read somewhere a TBSS with just a CAI, Tune, and TSP's MS3 cam gained over 60rwhp. i know a custom spec'd cam is alwyas the best choice. this is just the kind of numbers i saw and liked. thanks gary

[shadowsniper3006]

i agree with everything you said. all of it is plannned in the future. why do you say to keep the truck intake? wouldnt any opportunity for a larger intake and throttle body be good? especially since they are alot cheaper than going to a fast setup. i guess what im asking is wouldnt the 243/799 heads and TBSS/NNBS intake be a good base to start with for future mods? staying N/A of coarse. i see alot of ls2 based vehicles with stock heads and intake putting down strong numbers so i figured a similar setup would be good for starters. i know ported ls6's would be best but i'm looking at doing it in stages. just swapping to some stock casting with a nice cam. then later sending them to TEA or WCCH. For right now id be happy with stock ls2 numbers. of coarse leaving me room to grow when its not enough I read somewhere a TBSS with just a CAI, Tune, and TSP's MS3 cam gained over 60rwhp. i know a custom spec'd cam is alwyas the best choice. this is just the kind of numbers i saw and liked. thanks gary

 

you have your eyes on a wicked cam, i wasn't expecting you to say that, but i like it. Be prepared for a lot of tuning, most likely speed density. Your spring pressures will be a bit higher so the cts-vr lifters or morel would be a better suit. However i'm a little iffy on the cts lifters right now. The ls7 lifters might still work, texas speed would know when you ask them about that cam, but it depends on what spring you have to use. also be prepared for a very high stall to run that cam, like a 3600-3800 to really get a good 60 foot time. that cam is going to want everything right away, but if its not in the budget then it just isn't going to get it, but when you do go headers and ported heads.....the gains will be very high. If your going to swap heads, you may want to just wait untill you have the money for porting them. I always use new gaskets when the heads come off so theres like what, 60-80 bucks in gm gaskets and i think gm head bolts are another 40 bucks or so, which you HAVE to change everytime or spend the 250 bucks or so on ARP bolts...which you would not need for a NA set up. Then you have to pay some one to set up the new springs on the heads, unless your going to do it, so they will be at a shop anyway. You'd spend a bit more now but you'd save a 100 bucks or so in parts and all the labor or your time to do it again. The intake is still your call, with the ported heads you will see a bit of power from the 90mm TB but i'm not sure how much. A truck intake, any long runner, will help to calm the power band of that cam down a little bit unless you want to run a 4000 stall i would stay on the truck side of things. i have seen a truck intake pull 465 to the wheels with a 78mm TB and a smaller cam, so i have a lot of faith in them now, that truck ran 13.2 on a dyno tune only, no track tunning. My truck ran 12.82 through the truck intake and 78mm tb on a rich tune, 11.5 afr. Not to say it wouldn't be better with a TBSS intake, but i would save the money and put it into those heads. Despite the price and hassle to change to it, the fast intake will make more power then any other in a normal rpm range. pssssssst......use TEA for the heads, just my 2 cents. And make sure they think and texas speed thinks your valve to piston clearance will ok, a 65 cc head with that cam and stock valve angle will be close with a larger valve of a ported head.

Edited June 6, 2010 by shadowsniper3006 (see edit history)

[smoothdime]

dont get me wrong i would love to get some ported heads. im more looking at starting small and having room to grow. i agree the MS3 cam is pretty wicked. i would probably not start with that cam. the truck is still my DD so that cam and the required stall i think would kill the mpg's. ill probably try a cam similar to that in my s10. just to be on the safe side a smaller cam and stall will work for now. how bad would my mpg's take a hit with a little smaller cam and a 2800-3000 stall? im trying to find a happy medium. decent power but still maintain the current crappy mpg's .

[shadowsniper3006]

with a 226-228 .609,.588 and a 4000 stall i was seeing 11-12's combo city/highway if i kept my foot out of it in the city. On the highway your in lock up so the converter is not as big of a deal.

[smoothdime]

thats good to hear. i read some stuff zippy wrote about the comp cams XER273HR. i think it would be a good beginer cam. good power output and nice daily manners. whats your take on that cam? most likely with a circle-d 3200 stall. sounds like my ideas are turning into more of a list atleast ill have something to work towards now. thanks for your input shadow. i always like to get other opinions on stuff before i dive in head first. gary

Edited June 7, 2010 by smoothdime (see edit history)

[shadowsniper3006]

thats good to hear. i read some stuff zippy wrote about the comp cams XER273HR. i think it would be a good beginer cam. good power output and nice daily manners. whats your take on that cam? most likely with a circle-d 3200 stall. sounds like my ideas are turning into more of a list atleast ill have something to work towards now. thanks for your input shadow. i always like to get other opinions on stuff before i dive in head first. gary

 

224/230 .581,.588 114

 

Still a very nice cam, let alone a "starter" cam. The power potential of that cam is close to the one i ran. As "reading" a cam is not my best point i would run this past zippy as well(zippy is who does all the tuning on my truck and who i get A LOT of advice from). With the intake duration and the lsa i would expect a 3200-3400 converter to work nice, and the 114 lsa should give you more power lower in the rpm range but also maybe carry your peak power higher up in the rpm range as well. It should aslo be a flatter torque and hp curve then a lot of the other 112-113 cams. But depending on your shift points you may want to ask zippy if all the power will be in by then or if a 113 would be better. but a nice cam and fun on the street, and zippy would have no problem tuning it.