Bose Bypass

[sportin83]

i just put a new radio in truck and was going to use the amp integration harness but wanted to bypass the bose eventually but didnt wana alter the wiring a bunch. but i found a prewired amp bypass plug in dash. if you remove the radio and pull the airbag switch panel off to right of hvac controls. reach back behind the hvac controls. there is a plug there that is the radio plug for standard radio. if you unplug it you can use the standard wire harness's and bypass bose and run sound from headunit. you will lose the sub but all door spkr's and tweeters still are ok. it beats tearin console open and bypassing there or running new wires to each speaker. hope this helps someone out!! if you have ?'s pm me and i will try to help

[BlueAKSSS]

I decided to give this a try and sure enough, there's a plug back there, mine was behind the HVAC controls clipped on to the plastic radio mount! So I reached back there and unclipped it. From what I can tell its the original wiring harness for standard radios and it completely bypasses the Bose system. I plugged in my Bose radio into it and everything worked minus bose sub, and amp so all the speakers were quite since the Bose radio only puts out a preamp signal. Its a white plug in plugged into another connector which I assume goes to the Bose amp.

Edited April 9, 2010 by Matt* (see edit history)

[Fors]

Ive looked and looked for this but I cant seent to find the plug, anyone got a pic?

[smokey1369]

I decided to give this a try and sure enough, there's a plug back there, mine was behind the HVAC controls clipped on to the plastic radio mount! So I reached back there and unclipped it. From what I can tell its the original wiring harness for standard radios and it completely bypasses the Bose system. I plugged in my Bose radio into it and everything worked minus bose sub, and amp so all the speakers were quite since the Bose radio only puts out a preamp signal. Its a white plug in plugged into another connector which I assume goes to the Bose amp.

 

hey bro do you ave a pic of this how does it sound? man i had to buy the whole f'n 140.00 wire pice it works but sometimes i fell like i can get a str8t shot so it can sound better?

[rojo_143]

i just put a new radio in truck and was going to use the amp integration harness but wanted to bypass the bose eventually but didnt wana alter the wiring a bunch. but i found a prewired amp bypass plug in dash. if you remove the radio and pull the airbag switch panel off to right of hvac controls. reach back behind the hvac controls. there is a plug there that is the radio plug for standard radio. if you unplug it you can use the standard wire harness's and bypass bose and run sound from headunit. you will lose the sub but all door spkr's and tweeters still are ok. it beats tearin console open and bypassing there or running new wires to each speaker. hope this helps someone out!! if you have ?'s pm me and i will try to help

 

 

With this bypass done does the door chime still work correctly??Would you use a connecting harness for standard non bose radio installation?? I might have to look into this cause I have an aftermarket h/u and I would like to install subs but the bose adapter kit eats up both of the line out rca's.

[jlosh20s]

With this bypass done does the door chime still work correctly??Would you use a connecting harness for standard non bose radio installation?? I might have to look into this cause I have an aftermarket h/u and I would like to install subs but the bose adapter kit eats up both of the line out rca's.

 

yes door chime will still work as long as the wiring kit you get has the chime i did the bypass on mine and it works perfect only thing you lose is the factory sub

[Fors]

Still cant find the plug anywhere.

[jlosh20s]

Still cant find the plug anywhere.

 

 

very back behind stereo on the other side of plastic you can physically see it on the other side it looks exactly like the one your using now its where the factory bose amp feeds back up to feed speakers

[Fors]

Is it the plug attached to the back of a plastic thing? If so I wrestled with it but couldnt get it loose.

[jlosh20s]

Is it the plug attached to the back of a plastic thing? If so I wrestled with it but couldnt get it loose.

 

 

yes more towards the right side and a little low it isnt incredibly easy to get but that is the one you will know because its the same exact plug as the bose connector so if your wiring kit plugs in then thats it

[stg313]

You can also bypass the bose by unplugging the wires before they go in to the bose amp underneath your center console. Thats what I did. You can see it if you pull your cup holder out but you cant get to it without taking the whole middle console out. And believe me, thats a huge pain

[paulguy]

Take it from someone who's worked on these truck day after day.

Here's the skinny on installing a headunit and bypassing bose without an interface....

Don't do it!

 

Installers won't install a headunit in a class 2 data vehicle without a data retention module for a reason, we're told never to do it. Bcm communication problems will happen and there has always a chance something else could go wrong. There has always been a urban legend about a car without a radio data module having a tech 2 plugged in and having the airbags go off. I don't know if that's true. But Gm service doc 558208 lists procedures for disabling airbags for removing a radio.

 

The chimes come from the Data Link Controller either in the factory radio or a data retention module(gmos-04). If you replace the headunit without an interface, you will lose all chimes...period.

Then no notifications for door open, low fuel, memory seat settings, turn signal on, or any other dic warnings.

 

There is no reason to bypass bose unless your putting in a front end amp(s).

If you going to run aftermarket amps to your system with a factory deck, then you don't need a data integration module and there is adapters out there to give you aux outs to your amp, otherwise your chimes can get pretty loud.

If your just doing a deck, bose through an interface will still sound better then aftermarket speakers though deck power.

Also hooking up a headunit to 1 ohm Bose speakers can be really hard on the deck, I don't recommend it. Why would you anyway?

 

You can get a hold of a gmos 04 for like $50-60 on fleebay. Most have navagtion wiring which can save you the trouble of going behind the cluster and to the bcm for vss, ebrake, reverse. It's can be cheaper then the steering wheel interface, which you still need anyways.

 

And a tip... if your doing a full system and bypassing bose with an interface, either use a PAC OS-2C-Bose or C2R-GM24 which has an external chime module, a gmrc-01 which has a speaker for chimes(just don't hook up speaker wires), or if your using a gmos-04, tag onto one of the front speaker wires(easiest is in the drivers or pass kick) and mount one of the bose speakers that you took out under the dash. That way you don't lose your chimes.

 

Hope that helps if anyone was wondering

Edited September 16, 2010 by paulguy (see edit history)