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Alternator Cable Upgrade


pengintamer

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Ever since I added my 12' sub to my sSS I've had a problem with my headlights dimming when the bass hit real hard. While painting my engine covers I noticed how pathetic the factory alternator cable was about a 10 gauge. So I decided to upgrade to a 4 gauge. This completely fixed the problem with the dimming lights.

 

My parts list:

1.5' of 4g amp cable (free from a local stereo shop)

4g ring terminals ($4)

rosin core solder (lying around my house)

 

Tools:

Hammer

Round File

8mm socket (to remove engine covers)

10mm deep well socket (to remove alt nut)

17mm (to remove junction block nut)

Knife (to strip the 4g)

 

Remove top and driver side engine covers to expose alternator.

IMG_0095.jpg

 

Open up the junction box that the alternator cable runs into and remove the nut that holds the stock cable ring terminal.

IMG_0096.jpg

 

An image of the stock cable removed from the junction box.

IMG_0098.jpg

Pull the boot that covers the alternator stud and nut back.

IMG_0097.jpg

 

Remove the nut and throw away the POS stocker.

IMG_0099.jpg

 

Strip about half an inch of insulation off the 4g.

IMG_0085.jpg

 

Put the ring terminal on the exposed wire and hit it with a hammer until you have a good crimp.

IMG_0083.jpg

 

This is where I had to get creative. I couldn't find my blow torch to properly solder the ring terminal. So I used my kitchin stove!

IMG_0088.jpg

 

Use a towel to hold the wire about 6in back. The heat WILL wick up the wire and it gets reall really hot! Also get yourself a long piece of solder and put a little L bend in it, the radiant heat will burn.

IMG_0089.jpg

 

Make sure you have good penetration and coverage.

IMG_0084.jpg

 

Take the boot from the factory cable and put it over the new ring terminal.

IMG_0102.jpg

 

Now just reverse the process to install the new cable. I had to use a small round file to widen out the ring terminal that went in the junction block. It was just a bit too small for the stud. I also had to widen out the hole in the top of the junction box so it would close properly. Then fire it up and watch the warning lights, if the battery light stays on there is a problem with the charging system, double check all your connections if this happens.

 

Here you can see the two cables side by side. I may have made the new one a bit too long :D .

IMG_0100.jpg

 

PS

The stock cable is a fusable link. So if your paranoid about not having it, don't replace it. I have done this in 4 cars now with no problems. (I go through car like most go through undies, I get bored :jester: )

Edited by pengintamer (see edit history)
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