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A Few Good How To Links I Found


sprayed99

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Just whatch out for the Tunning section.... "Extra fuel only takes up space..." :uhoh: As well as some other not to smart remarks.

 

I have a good read for you regarding that portion... hes correct in idea if I understand what he is trying to say but he has a backwoods way of explaining it. But I might be reading into what he is trying to say the wrong way.

 

heres a good read.

 

http://www.hardcorels1.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=4534

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I have a good read for you regarding that portion... hes correct in idea if I understand what he is trying to say but he has a backwoods way of explaining it. But I might be reading into what he is trying to say the wrong way.

 

heres a good read.

 

http://www.hardcorels1.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=4534

 

Basically, Yes, that post is at what I was hinting at... Its alot to go into detail but now that I have worked out almost all of the kinks on my truck, I am going to start to refine the tune on my boost VE table. This time however, I will be using a type K thermocoupler as a secondary unit to my WB to see at what Boost AFR my exhaust runs coolest at. At cruizing, I have found out that if I target 15.2 AFR, my truck runs 300* cooler than at 14.2. which is nice. One thing about the previous link that I saw and didn't like was that the author was saying that running anymore fuel than 13.??:1 (dont excactly remember) Just "takes Up valuable space in the combustion chamber", While it is true that the power difference between 11.0 and 13.8 is negligable, the thermalcooling of extra fuel is invaluable with respect to a motor meltdown.

 

Keep in mind that the viper boys must target low 11's N/A and low 10's AFR while in boost to keep their motors from melting down.

 

Lastly, if "extra fuel just took up space" and didn nothing to the temps, then how does everyone explain methanol/alcohol and even water injection...

 

 

Dang, I didn't read far enough into the other link, but MR. P preatty much said what I was trying to say...

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might have to throw the starter button in the SS

 

 

It wont work on our trucks with out dissableing VATs... On ls1 cars the key has a chip that tuns vats off, on our truck its done with in the key cylinder, if the key is not the one that turns on cylinders and engauges the starter, VATs will cut off fuel. A simple retune will get the starter button to work.... and buy a lighted starter button, make it look badass

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Just whatch out for the Tunning section.... "Extra fuel only takes up space..." :uhoh: As well as some other not to smart remarks.

Internal combustion physics just proves the adage that life isn't quite that simple. And some folks have vivd imaginations. :jester:

 

I am thinking of buying a thermocouple too, more for curiosity's sake than to sharpen the tune. I think you and I are at the same learning point with our tuning, now that I am really getting the hang of VE tuning I can see how some race teams get astounding results from bone stock parts. I also want to find some of those 1930's NACA papers on piston aircraft internal combustion.

 

Mr. P. :)

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Internal combustion physics just proves the adage that life isn't quite that simple. And some folks have vivd imaginations. :jester:

 

I am thinking of buying a thermocouple too, more for curiosity's sake than to sharpen the tune. I think you and I are at the same learning point with our tuning, now that I am really getting the hang of VE tuning I can see how some race teams get astounding results from bone stock parts. I also want to find some of those 1930's NACA papers on piston aircraft internal combustion.

 

Mr. P. :)

 

exactly... I only want to use the type K as a secondary unit. I placed my type K in the same general area as my WB and front o2 to get a consintant "fair" reading.

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