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Gauge Cluster Led Conversion


idahoBLKss

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OK OPERATION STEERING WHEEL....

 

to get the buttons out or the "boxes" the house the buttons you will need a small screw driver to pry them out . once you get them pried far enough grab them with your fingers and pull on it till you see the clip behind them. use a smaller screw driver to unclip them .the bottom buttons will be a PITA to get out. once out use that small crew driver to open the boxes. once open this is what it will look like....

arrows represent positive side on this one...

PIC_0998.jpg

 

arrows represent negative side on this one THIS PIC WAS TAKEN B4 I SWAP THE LED/RESISTOR AROUND...

PIC_0999.jpg

 

arrows represent positive side on this one...

PIC_1000.jpg

 

arrows represent positive side on this one...

PIC_1001.jpg

 

 

ok after you get them all together with your LEDS AND RESISTORS you are ready to plug back in, tops should go in fine you might need some needle nose pliers to grabb the wire to connect it back to the box for the top. and for the bottom you are going to have to pull the airbag off. i didnt unplug the battery or do any of that funny $hit. go about it how you want to thou, im not responcible for your actions :uhoh: .

to pull the airbag off your going to need a small screw driver that will fit in the little holes on the side / back of the steering wheel . as you push the screw driver in them and put pressure on it you will feel something compress about a 1/4 inch, while it is compressed pull on the top of your steering wheel airbag , that side will pop off and repeat for the other side.once off this is what you will see...

PIC_1002.jpg

the small wire i em holding is the wire for the bottom right button box. you will have to re route this to get enough wire to plug the box back in. it should look like this after the reroute...

PIC_1003.jpg

i used a screw driver and some needle nose to reroute it. now b4 you button everything up make sure you test your lights to make sure everythng is working alright. then just push the AIRBAG back on and your done. :chevy: NOTE I DID NOT DISCONNECT THE AIRBAG.

Edited by idahoBLKss (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...
thanks buddy me and danny just did this on my Duramax truck and it looks great. Only issue im having is the cruise control inducator isnt showing up lol

maybe you burnt the light out for that , if i remember right i think those are surface leds that light those options up. pull it apart an replace it with an led . or pull it apart find the light that is burnt out and test it with a 9v battery and see if it lights up. good thing is if its a surface led you shouldn't need a resistor.

 

Can you give me a little more info on how to make sure your gauges are calibrated before and after you do the dash? I will be doing the dash tomm and I am only leary on the needle positions. Thanks.

 

this is what you want to do. start he truck from a cold start, and let it sit for 15min take a picture of the cluster so you have some thing to reference back to after your done. by taking a picture of the cluster you will see where each needle is positioned, if you have to take a picture of each needle position zoomed in to get it exact. then, after you are done with the conversion refer back to your picture/pictures to see where they go.

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Well I tackled the LED's lastnight. I did blue. Cluster, light switch, and HVAC controls.

I think I have a needle or two off a little so I will hook up my EFI Live to check them when I get a chance.

The only prob I have is my heating control power light and recirc light keeps going out and then back on. I have them soldered in good but I don't know if the connection on the board is good. I will pull it back out and try it again when I get a chance to do it too.

I love the look of the LED's.

Thanks for the write up.

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Well I tackled the LED's lastnight. I did blue. Cluster, light switch, and HVAC controls.

I think I have a needle or two off a little so I will hook up my EFI Live to check them when I get a chance.

The only prob I have is my heating control power light and recirc light keeps going out and then back on. I have them soldered in good but I don't know if the connection on the board is good. I will pull it back out and try it again when I get a chance to do it too.

I love the look of the LED's.

Thanks for the write up.

 

sounds like a bad connection if it flickers on and off.

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That is what I thought. I left some of the wire from the old light that was soldered to the board to solder the leds to when I did this.

I know I have a good solder to the wire, but I don't know if the heat caused it to disconnect the solder from the back side of the board and intermittently contact.

I will check it our and let you know what I find.

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uh if you plug in the cluster with the clear plastic face off it will zero the guages and you can install the needles. Then you can turn your key to run and then back off to check the needle positions when the key gets turned off it zeros the needles and you can set them on the 0 setting for each needle

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wow I cant believe that this is how you have to change the color of your stock guages. I asked numerous Advance Autos and my local chevy dealer and nobody could tell me how to do this. I know Im gonna end up doing it but the truck is my daily driver so idk when i will have enough time! def have to wait for the crazy weather here to warm up!

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lights on lights off. i didnt do the radio because its coming out but i did the light switch 4x4 switch cargo lamp switch and the a/c controls all in super bright white the cluster looks blue because of the tint used in the factory guage face. thanks to danny for doing most of it he hogged all the work lol

IMG_3453.jpg

IMG_3460.jpg

Edited by MIDNIGHTRIDR (see edit history)
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I did rezero the gauges but my oil pressure needle with the truck off reads about 2psi and when it's running it's running where it did at idle at 38psi. I don't know if I should leave it go or hook up my scanner to see where it is really at and do it that way to make sure.

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ok lots of request about how i did the screens blue. i'm not taking full credit for this part of the write up a friend off of sss.net "ducttape" told me how to do this and i asked him if i could post it and he was cool with it, so here you go the secrete behind the blue....

 

use a blue gel sheet for lighting looks like this when you get it...

PIC_1009.jpg

 

cut to size being careful not to get finger prints or dust behind it. all you do it scotch tape it on don't let the tape show in the window you will see it.

 

PIC_1008.jpg

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ok lots of request about how i did the screens blue. i'm not taking full credit for this part of the write up a friend off of sss.net "ducttape" told me how to do this and i asked him if i could post it and he was cool with it, so here you go the secrete behind the blue....

 

use a blue gel sheet for lighting looks like this when you get it...

PIC_1009.jpg

 

cut to size being careful not to get finger prints or dust behind it. all you do it scotch tape it on don't let the tape show in the window you will see it.

 

PIC_1008.jpg

 

 

technically couldn't you just cover the back of your cluster minus the holes for the needles and get the same effect as swapping out to LED just not as bright as the LED's are??

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