vette dude Posted May 23, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2004 To make the air go out the system i allways drill a very small hole in the new thermostat . I have seen new thermostat with had some small device with a spring to let the air through. that is interesting, however i am not doing it utill i rule out the possibilities it is the fans... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiel Posted May 23, 2004 Report Share Posted May 23, 2004 To make the air go out the system i allways drill a very small hole in the new thermostat . I have seen new thermostat with had some small device with a spring to let the air through. that is interesting, however i am not doing it utill i rule out the possibilities it is the fans... Onetime i let another put the thermo in and forget to drill the hole, my car overheated and my valverubbers hardened and i got a smoking car after changing the valverubbers it was OK. At the site of pcmforless.com i read : "What can you do for my car? For your GM vehicle we can: · Change the fan turn on temperatures for a 160° thermostat" Maybe something to look at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02denali Posted May 23, 2004 Report Share Posted May 23, 2004 wow that isnt normal. the fans shouldnt matter on the freeway though. when i did my cam swap this last time i put in the green stuff and man i wish i would have done this a long time ago. mine runs from 172 to 176 on the freeway and usuallly around 184 idling with the a/c on in houston. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vette dude Posted May 23, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2004 wow that isnt normal. the fans shouldnt matter on the freeway though. when i did my cam swap this last time i put in the green stuff and man i wish i would have done this a long time ago. mine runs from 172 to 176 on the freeway and usuallly around 184 idling with the a/c on in houston. wow... I think i may gop pull it out here in a few minutes and just send it back to T-berne... I just don't get this... and BTW, what is yup with us not being able to use the green stuff? is there a real reason? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supraman Posted May 24, 2004 Report Share Posted May 24, 2004 vette dude, My 160 does not work either....Tbyrne nor Hypertech care to do anything about it either. I have also ruled the fans out as they run all the time now and I cant get below 195 degrees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted May 24, 2004 Report Share Posted May 24, 2004 it wouldn't be the fix for the thermostat issue, but i'd recomend some water wetter to go with the low temp thermostat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vette dude Posted May 24, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2004 it wouldn't be the fix for the thermostat issue, but i'd recomend some water wetter to go with the low temp thermostat. yeah, i thought about that myself zippy... I may do the B mod to the stat, or maybee take off the stat and modify it... This is verry frustrating... maybee i should drill it, i really wish thids was no0t happening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supraman Posted May 24, 2004 Report Share Posted May 24, 2004 I have 3 bottles of it in my 200-210 fire breathin' machine ...,.no help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krambo Posted May 24, 2004 Report Share Posted May 24, 2004 Drop to 75% water and 25% coolant with 3 bottles of "watter wetter". It helped me. I will go back to 50% water/coolant in Sept. FYI, I had the 160 stat in before the Flex-a-lite's and did not break 180. After the fan install, I float between 180 and 200 (looking at the interior gauge) in stop in go traffic. That is with the fans working off their thermo. If the fans were on "low" all of the time, I feel that 180 is where I would stay because once the fans kick on, the temp drops fast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vette dude Posted May 24, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2004 Drop to 75% water and 25% coolant with 3 bottles of "watter wetter". It helped me. I will go back to 50% water/coolant in Sept. FYI, I had the 160 stat in before the Flex-a-lite's and did not break 180. After the fan install, I float between 180 and 200 (looking at the interior gauge) in stop in go traffic. That is with the fans working off their thermo. If the fans were on "low" all of the time, I feel that 180 is where I would stay because once the fans kick on, the temp drops fast. why not 100% water? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deezel Posted May 25, 2004 Report Share Posted May 25, 2004 Drop to 75% water and 25% coolant with 3 bottles of "watter wetter". It helped me. I will go back to 50% water/coolant in Sept. FYI, I had the 160 stat in before the Flex-a-lite's and did not break 180. After the fan install, I float between 180 and 200 (looking at the interior gauge) in stop in go traffic. That is with the fans working off their thermo. If the fans were on "low" all of the time, I feel that 180 is where I would stay because once the fans kick on, the temp drops fast. why not 100% water? 100% water boils at a lower temperature. Also, the coolant and/or water wetter have "conditioners" in them to prevent corrosion. I have also heard of 50/50 water wetter and water being used. Another thing for you guys to consider: If you have an underdrive pulley, the water pump is turning slower and pumping coolant slower. You might want to raise your idle a little to help with this, depending on where your at now. Not sure if a water pump upgrade would help... an electric one would. Mine also runs a little warmer with the e-fans compared to the stock fan. Plan on hooking up the PCM control wire pretty soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vette dude Posted May 25, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2004 Drop to 75% water and 25% coolant with 3 bottles of "watter wetter". It helped me. I will go back to 50% water/coolant in Sept. FYI, I had the 160 stat in before the Flex-a-lite's and did not break 180. After the fan install, I float between 180 and 200 (looking at the interior gauge) in stop in go traffic. That is with the fans working off their thermo. If the fans were on "low" all of the time, I feel that 180 is where I would stay because once the fans kick on, the temp drops fast. why not 100% water? 100% water boils at a lower temperature. Also, the coolant and/or water wetter have "conditioners" in them to prevent corrosion. I have also heard of 50/50 water wetter and water being used. Another thing for you guys to consider: If you have an underdrive pulley, the water pump is turning slower and pumping coolant slower. You might want to raise your idle a little to help with this, depending on where your at now. Not sure if a water pump upgrade would help... an electric one would. Mine also runs a little warmer with the e-fans compared to the stock fan. Plan on hooking up the PCM control wire pretty soon. well, water wetter, was what i was thinking, with weater, and no coolant... I have stock pullies for just that reason... I dunno about the EWP, i am kinda scared of those. An upgraded unit would not be a problem though.. I still don't think my truck should run at 210 while cruising b/w 60 and eighty, as this should not matter , if i have electric or mechanical fans. I may drill holes in The LS1 fan shroud and put flaps on it for aditional cooling at speed, any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deezel Posted May 25, 2004 Report Share Posted May 25, 2004 vette dude, not sure about the holes in the fan shroud... I was under the impression that the shroud seals against the radiator so the fans don't bypass air (i.e. suck air not thru the radiator). A few more things to consider: - LS1 fans flow less air than the FAL 282s. - stock temperature gauges in the dash may vary between vehicles, 200 on one may be 210 on another. - if you live in an area that sells oxygenated fuel (MTBE, ethanol, etc.), your engine might run a little hotter due to the additives - uummmmm (:grasping at straws:) manufacturing tolerances? An old-school ghetto method to get your engine running cooler would be to take apart the thermostat and install the housing without the spring or valve (no thermostat). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MustBBrent Posted May 25, 2004 Report Share Posted May 25, 2004 vette dude, not sure about the holes in the fan shroud... I was under the impression that the shroud seals against the radiator so the fans don't bypass air (i.e. suck air not thru the radiator). A few more things to consider: - LS1 fans flow less air than the FAL 282s. - stock temperature gauges in the dash may vary between vehicles, 200 on one may be 210 on another. - if you live in an area that sells oxygenated fuel (MTBE, ethanol, etc.), your engine might run a little hotter due to the additives - uummmmm (:grasping at straws:) manufacturing tolerances? An old-school ghetto method to get your engine running cooler would be to take apart the thermostat and install the housing without the spring or valve (no thermostat). Or you could add the BB so it stays cracked open and only gets to 180 or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiel Posted May 25, 2004 Report Share Posted May 25, 2004 An old-school ghetto method to get your engine running cooler would be to take apart the thermostat and install the housing without the spring or valve (no thermostat). I wouldn't recomend that, the flow of the coolant will be too much in the front of the engine and in the back it will be overheating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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