2005SSR6Speed Posted March 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2004 Any more questions feel free to ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rico750sxi Posted March 20, 2004 Report Share Posted March 20, 2004 Thanks again. Hopefully I will be doing the install soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005SSR6Speed Posted March 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2004 Are you going to be doing the install in your garage or have a shop do it? Feel free to call me on my cell and I can walk you through the harder parts of the installation. I have not messed with the front tosion Bars or the rear front spring hangers. I also did not cut any of the factory bumpstops, I just removed the rear bumpstop brackets and mounted just the bumpstops to the frame. It is a very clean installation and pretty starght forward by following th directions provided. Just a key to remember is to use one of the provided lock nuts for the top ball joint and dont use a washer so it countersinks completely withing the machined spindle. You will see what I mean when you do it. One last thing is just to go ahead and remove the front shafts they are too in the way to do the upper ball joints by yourself with them in, it is easy to pull them completely out by removing the sway bar links. Joseph DeLano (760)522-8669 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdss Posted March 20, 2004 Report Share Posted March 20, 2004 I have done the spring hanger relocator in the rear. It was the easiest part of doing the 2/4 drop on my '00 Silverado. The only hard part is the drivers side, the gas tank gets in the way and the passenger side is cake. I would recommend getting a "C" section to install though. With the shackles and relocator I was hitting my frame badly and I would recommend all Bell Tech equipment. I have a 6" flip kit from JDM and didnt even take it out of the box. I would post pics, but, I got rid of the truck for the SS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted March 20, 2004 Report Share Posted March 20, 2004 My next suspension upgrade will be Hotchkis Sway Bars front and rear then Baer 14" Eradispeed brake upgrade. Definitely get the Hotchkis bars. But, if your reasoning behind the Baer +1 system is better brake performance, don't waste yopur money. Very minimal results have been posted on here from the kit. Now, if you want to spend $1200+ for a diff look in your wheel area, by all means get the +1 system. If you go ahead and back it up with ss lines, better bads, and high performance fluid, then you're talking some decent performance. Just a rec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrock80 Posted March 20, 2004 Report Share Posted March 20, 2004 Looks good! I didnt think of getting mine powdercoated before the intall, I should have. I live in an area where they put a lot of salt on the roads my spindles are already pretty corroaded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005SSR6Speed Posted March 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2004 Actually I was looking at the plus 2 and I would be changing the pads to the Hawk and lines to SS. These trucks stop on a dime compared to the competition as they come from the factory. I just want to improve on fade and looks, dont know if I will actually see and improved stopping distance. They are a bit over priced for just the rotors but I have heard nothing but good from all the Corvette guys running this setup when I had my Z06. Thanks on the recommendation, you are right on track with what I was thinking. I dont spend money on new wheels as I like a stock as delivered look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005SSR6Speed Posted March 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2004 It cost me $50.00 to have them powder coated in 2 day for the install. It would have only been $35 if I could have waited the 7-10 days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005SSR6Speed Posted March 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2004 Here is something I have been thinking about: Make a bracket to raise the center differencial for the front with the spindles installed and you could get a 4" front drop then go with a flip and C Notch for the back. It would look bad as a 4/6 drop, just a thought! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted March 20, 2004 Report Share Posted March 20, 2004 Sounds like you're talking about bagging territory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005SSR6Speed Posted March 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2004 I was just out looking at the SS yesterday and measured, it would put the edge of the tire at the edge of the fender lip. I did it years ago to a 1989 GMC SCSB and it looked great but you had to be careful when driving. I am older now and like not having to worry about going into a parking lot or driveway. For the guys that want to be lower it would cure the front shake issues, and the c-notch would cure the big bottoming out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rico750sxi Posted March 20, 2004 Report Share Posted March 20, 2004 2004SS, I will be doing the install in my garage with the help of a friend of mine. If you get a call with a 518 area code it's me. Thanks for the offer and for all the tips. Hopefully I will be able to do the install within a month or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdss Posted March 20, 2004 Report Share Posted March 20, 2004 I was just wondering if when you cut off the bolt to make it flush, would that affect going back to stock? Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rico750sxi Posted March 20, 2004 Report Share Posted March 20, 2004 I was wondering the same thing, you may have to change your ball joints to go back to stock. Which I hear is really easy on these trucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdss Posted March 20, 2004 Report Share Posted March 20, 2004 I havent looked at the ball joints on the SS but the one on the 99-02 are rivited on and are a real pain to get the factory ones drilled and punched out. But, once you have the originals out and aftermarket ones bolted in it is beyond easy to replace them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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