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My drop kit is going in at 08:30 18 March 04


2005SSR6Speed

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I measured all for corners, it is exactly 34" front and 34.5" rear. I measured at the center of the wheel, from the ground to the fenderwell lip. I do understand that some are recording at least 1" lower in the front then mine. I think that if I would have used the front hangers then the back would have been lower then the front.

 

Rico

I will e-mail you the pictures of the drop and the side shot of the vehicle if you can host and post them for me. Thanks again!!!!

Joseph

 

I only took pictures of the install for the front, the rear was very straight forward with the shackles, 2 degree shims (thick end to rear) and removal of the bumpstop bracket then bolt the bumpstop to the frame. I didnt even trim the bumpstop. Thanks for everything!

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Very quite night here at work. I work at a large cement manufacturing facility as the Operator and Shift Supervisor. However much of the equipment I operate(burn kilns, mills, conveyor belts, etc.) is down for overhaul or general maint. No one is here working on it so there is no one to supervise. Just a graveyard shift of 4 guys. Tomorrow night will be busy, I will be firing up one of the kilns which is an 8-10 hour process. But anyways, I won't be working too hard.

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No problem, like I said, it's quiet here. I screwed up a couple of times but I think it's the right order now. I have a few questions if you don't mind. How hard was it to break the ball loints loose, how was it done? Also, how close is the CV boot to the ball joint bolt? And how did you get the little washer thingys off that are on the lug bolts holding the brake rotor on?

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Does that look to be the same amount of drop as you? Acording to Mike McGaughy I can adjust my front bars and put the hangers on without a problem. I dont have any issues right now and it should tow perfect. It does ride like a Cadillac the way it is right now. It doesnt bottom, shake, make noise or anything else except surprise me at the ride quality this truck has right now. I am very pleased with the Spindles and Shackles. My next suspension upgrade will be Hotchkis Sway Bars front and rear then Baer 14" Eradispeed brake upgrade.

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1. Ball Joints were broken loose by backing the nuts off then hitting the spindle where the ball joint goes through it, they popped right out.

 

2. The spindle actually has been machined so that you use a locking nut provided with the kit and a thin wall socket. Do not use the washer for the top ball joint and as you tighten it, it becomes countersunk in the spindle out of harms way. Then all you do is cut off the threads from the ball joint that are left sticking out of the spindle. It makes for a very clean application when done correctly. The CV is at least 1/8 to 1/4 from the spindle once it is all complete.

 

3. The lock washer things that hold the rotor onto the hub assembly are just there for the assembly line process. Grab them with a set of wire cutters and twist and brake them off. They serve no function other then to hold the rotors on during the assembly line before the calipers are installed.

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