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408 "ls-6" With Direct Port Nitrous


Krambo

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Yea, its been full throttle. I have been enjoying just driving it to cruise nights and a few shows. I did sneak to the track for some covert test and tune this spring (sorry guys, I didn't call) and am happy with the results (and that nothing broke). I did confirm that I more than likely have the incorrect converter in there and wil see big improvements when I get around to swapping it out for the correct stall. I told PI what I wanted however from the logs and what I tell them, they are sure I have the incorrect converter in there. I am just busy/lazy otherwise I would have swapped it out long ago. My current shift recoveries are 2k to 2200rpms with the current converter when they should be like 1k. That is horrible for a motor like mine where the power curve is very peaky. Stall RPM is right at advertised however with my motor, it should have stalled much higher on the spray Yes, the nitrous can make up for that however I have some N/A goals I want to hit and after this spring's session at the track, I know it is within reach.

 

I added a bunch of little items that I should post up pics of (like remote bottle openers, bottle blankets, emblems ...) Hopefully I will get around to it.

 

I will post up track numbers AFTER I swap out the converter as I feel I could pick up some substantial time there. Regardless, my best time with my old set-up was 11.72 and I was able to better that easily. I will give a complete rundown of my times/shot size and what I did to improve them this fall...or maybe earlier.

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Yea, its been full throttle. I have been enjoying just driving it to cruise nights and a few shows. I did sneak to the track for some covert test and tune this spring (sorry guys, I didn't call) and am happy with the results (and that nothing broke). I did confirm that I more than likely have the incorrect converter in there and wil see big improvements when I get around to swapping it out for the correct stall. I told PI what I wanted however from the logs and what I tell them, they are sure I have the incorrect converter in there. I am just busy/lazy otherwise I would have swapped it out long ago. My current shift recoveries are 2k to 2200rpms with the current converter when they should be like 1k. That is horrible for a motor like mine where the power curve is very peaky. Stall RPM is right at advertised however with my motor, it should have stalled much higher on the spray Yes, the nitrous can make up for that however I have some N/A goals I want to hit and after this spring's session at the track, I know it is within reach.

 

I added a bunch of little items that I should post up pics of (like remote bottle openers, bottle blankets, emblems ...) Hopefully I will get around to it.

 

I will post up track numbers AFTER I swap out the converter as I feel I could pick up some substantial time there. Regardless, my best time with my old set-up was 11.72 and I was able to better that easily. I will give a complete rundown of my times/shot size and what I did to improve them this fall...or maybe earlier.

 

 

good to hear from you , i thought you fail off the face of the earth... good to see there is some knowledge still lurking around here.... get us some new numbers !!!! peelout.gif

Edited by idahoBLKss (see edit history)
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  • 4 months later...

Allright, a little update!

 

Since the spring I have done a few very important and necessary modifications...along with tuning. I swapped out my old PI converter for a NEW PI converter. I had multiple discussions with PI's technical department and together nailed the perfect converter for this motor. The old converter was cut open and restalled "2 steps" along with some cleaning and new clutches. Each "step" adds 400-500RPM to the stall speed. This converter now stalls in the 42-4400 RPM range :noway: depending on the flash and starting point of the launch. My shift recoveries are roughly 1700 on the 1-2 and 1450 on the 2-3 average. Much improved from the last converter.

 

Street driving this pig isn't as bad as I thought. There is enough converter clutch drag to keep it sane when tooling around however will instantly flash when spirited driving should be warranted. The truck has traction issues AGAIN just like with the Radix set-up During some Nitrous tuning, I came close to eating the gaurd rail on a launch, corrected it back and heard an aweful noise from the front end. Turns out I must have hit the "rumble strips" on the side of the road causing the front passenger side tire to spin and make a nasty vibration and noise. Everything checks out.

 

While the converter was out for rework, I investigated some heavy duty U-joints and high speed balanced my shafts. I started with what most regard to as the premier heavy duty U-joint available for street use...SPICER. Well, after a lengthy conversation with some of the right people there, it turns out that SPICER does not currently (at the time of this writing) make a true heavy duty U-joint for our trucks that is compatible with an Aluminum drive shaft. The technicians stated to me that yes, I could use the heavy duty U-joint for the steel shafts however as soon as I got it wet, the dissimilar metals will bond and corrode to the yolk at a very fast rate and WILL fail. He did list some alternative joints available that were stronger than stock however were not classified as "heavy duty". Not really what I was looking for.

 

So I made some contacts at a company called NEAPCO. NEAPCO is a huge manufacturer of OEM parts for some of the big automotive and agricultural companies world wide and also work very closely with Eaton on numerous joint venture products. NEAPCO also does much of the case hardening for SPICER U-joints as well. So, after a lengthy discussion with the NEAPCO techs / engineer, they do have some U-joints in a heavy duty grade that will work with an Aluminum shaft. The part numbers are not listed on their parts pages so you will need to special order them (under $20 ea.). Man, its not easy being AWD.

 

Part numbers:

 

Aluminum drive shaft: (1) NE-2-0793 - 1330 ALU/SAG-S44 and (1) NE-2-0790 Brute Force 3R

Front steel drive shaft: (2) NE-2-0795 - Brute Force 3R

 

Many U-joint companies will say they have a heavy duty joint that is greaseable (grease fittings). Heavy Duty U-joints do not have grease fittings. The NEAPCO's are a sealed and solid joint giving as much strength to the piece as possible.

 

The following picture illustrates the new NEAPCO joints compared to the old stockers. You can see the difference in mass and design. Believe it or not, the stockers were manufactured by SPICER, it was stamped right into the joint.

 

DSPics023.jpg

 

So with that, I had a local shop do some high speed balancing on the shafts. Turns out that the Aluminum one required some weight! This is the 3rd time I had it balanced from the factory and each time I needed to adjust. Granted it is a small adjustment however in 3rd gear at the top of the track, I don't want to worry about a small vibration sending the shaft through the gas tank. I would encourage everyone to high speed balance their shafts. I had the Aluminum one spun at 2,000RPMs, 3500RPMs and finally at 5,000. The necessary weight adjustment wasn't apparent until 3500 so High speed balancing is necessary to fine tune.

 

Next update will be some NEW 1/4 mile times :wink2:

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

what should we expect to pay to have a high speed balance done? thanks and good research work. and whats the number you called to order those u joints ?

 

All said and done for my 2 shafts with the joints installed and balanced came to $200 cash.

 

bump update needed

 

 

LOL, what do you need to know :wink2: Track opens in 3 weeks pending weather.

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