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Dude that was far from a joke, you "acted" like you didn't even know what I was talking about...I was ready to hang up and call back to talk to someone who did.....that's funny? You just made yourself look like an ASS :D

 

 

Like I said, sorry you did not get the humor. I recognized your voice, and knew you from the boards, I thought you did as well. My bad, not normal practice. And I far from made myself look like an ASS, trust me.

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Thats funny. Brian does like to have fun. He may come off as a jerk, but thats because ... well.... But one thing is for sure, he will take care of you.

 

I bought a used Radix a few years ago. I called and left him a message needing a few parts for the install. When he called me back, he starts acting like a police detective looking for stolen auto parts. Had me going for an instant. :)

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Thats funny. Brian does like to have fun. He may come off as a jerk, but thats because ... well.... But one thing is for sure, he will take care of you.

 

I bought a used Radix a few years ago. I called and left him a message needing a few parts for the install. When he called me back, he starts acting like a police detective looking for stolen auto parts. Had me going for an instant. :)

LMFAO, I did not think you would remember that!

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My truck has been doing the same thing and I haven't driven it in 3 months because of it. I couldn't figure out why. I had numerous misfires on each cylinder a few times but they would go away. I only start my truck once or twice a week but don't dare drive it because I am scared the damn thing is going to take a sh!t for sure. The intank 255 works fine, filter is new, and idle FP is ~52psi. I pulled the injectors, which looked fine, cleaned all the connections, which weren't dirty, so any ideas on the problem? BTW, I have the 03 for those who have never seen me around here before.

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Blown chevy is and assett to magnusun and should be recognized for that.Can you just imagine how many calls he would recieve on any given day!everybody asking and wanting.yes he is in a retail market,Yes you should expect great service, and yes these kits are priced heavy(less than others),yet worth every penny.American made!I know for a fact he is willing to help once given the chance.I personally talk to him at least once a week and can only imagine how many others do the same.I have asked for complete kits all the way to drop shipping a simple belt routing decal to customer for me.It doesn't matter how big or how small,or for that matter the cost involved It will get done.Brian Is one of those key people that make magnuson so good.

 

B.C. Keep doing what you are doing.It works!

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That seems about 10 psi to low. Even with my 42# my idle psi was 62 and WOT 58 and now that i have 60# its still the same.

 

Any idea why it is too low? I'm trying to save a bit of cash to pick up some 50 or 60# injectors, but I didn't think that would solve my problem. I could replace the FP regulator, but my truck never did it before, and it was preset from Magnason, so I don't see why it would just go bad. Any ideas of why the FP is so low?

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Any idea why it is too low? I'm trying to save a bit of cash to pick up some 50 or 60# injectors, but I didn't think that would solve my problem. I could replace the FP regulator, but my truck never did it before, and it was preset from Magnason, so I don't see why it would just go bad. Any ideas of why the FP is so low?

 

No but go back and read thru this thread. There is a bunch of ideas about why the original posters FP could be low.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Anybody consider a amperage draw? If the amperage is high, it will be one more clue. Could have a volt drop (bad ground, connection, etc), pump going bad, restricted (filter, partially pinched fuel line, etc).

 

If you can get at the fuel pump connector, take a cheap test light (those will draw a decent amount of current) or an old sealed beam headlamp and ground one end (preferably a jumper wire to the battery ground terminal) and probe the positive lead at the pump. Obviously, you will need to jump pin 30 and 87 of the fuel pump relay so that the circuit is powered up 100% of the time for this test. See how bright your lamp is. It should be as bright as if you put it across the battery. If it is, then take one lead and get power from the positive post of the battery and take the other lead and run it to the ground terminal of the fuel pump connector. The lamp should be just as bright.

 

Many times, I'll find that the postive is nice and bright, but the ground side isn't. Often times, I'll find a corroded ground. Of course, it could be that or a bad connection, wire, etc.

 

If the wiring tests good, I'd take a really close look at all of the line. Make sure it hasn't been damaged at some point (i.e. restricted). You could do a fuel volume test as well, but I'm not aware of any specification given for how much is good or not. Especially since the fuel system is modified. Maybe Magnuson has some specs???

 

Lastly, make sure you have a stock pulley on there. You may have a stock pump trying to keep up with a lot of horsepower (pullied up blower, etc). Good luck.

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Anybody consider a amperage draw? If the amperage is high, it will be one more clue. Could have a volt drop (bad ground, connection, etc), pump going bad, restricted (filter, partially pinched fuel line, etc).

 

If you can get at the fuel pump connector, take a cheap test light (those will draw a decent amount of current) or an old sealed beam headlamp and ground one end (preferably a jumper wire to the battery ground terminal) and probe the positive lead at the pump. Obviously, you will need to jump pin 30 and 87 of the fuel pump relay so that the circuit is powered up 100% of the time for this test. See how bright your lamp is. It should be as bright as if you put it across the battery. If it is, then take one lead and get power from the positive post of the battery and take the other lead and run it to the ground terminal of the fuel pump connector. The lamp should be just as bright.

 

Many times, I'll find that the postive is nice and bright, but the ground side isn't. Often times, I'll find a corroded ground. Of course, it could be that or a bad connection, wire, etc.

 

If the wiring tests good, I'd take a really close look at all of the line. Make sure it hasn't been damaged at some point (i.e. restricted). You could do a fuel volume test as well, but I'm not aware of any specification given for how much is good or not. Especially since the fuel system is modified. Maybe Magnuson has some specs???

 

Lastly, make sure you have a stock pulley on there. You may have a stock pump trying to keep up with a lot of horsepower (pullied up blower, etc). Good luck.

 

I need to try that. I never thought about the power draws leaning it out so bad, but ever since I have had my truck the lights dim when I hit the windows up.

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did he get this thing worked out? does anybody know? it seemed like he was having a real struggle with this.

 

 

I'm curious to know if there was a resolution to this yet or not. I will be installing mine in the next couple of weeks and mine is also an 04.

 

B

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Funny, you should ask.... :crazy:

 

Long story short, I bought this very vehicle this past week and didn't even know it was the same one--LMAO! It turns out the guy bought it at auction and couldn't resolve the fueling issue (see this thread) with a new pump from Magnacharger and a swapped Magnavolt box. So he put it up on E-bay (where I came across it). He was pretty close so I drove out and ended up buying it.

 

Turns out this was Fuel Sluts old truck----small world huh! LOL!

 

Anyways, I knew there was a fueling issue (had a Tech 2 with me) when I was looking at the truck and I just figured out the problem. Basically, the truck has a lot of resistance in the wiring (both positive and negative). I have a 1.6 volt drop on the power side from the battery to the pump connector (have isolated it down to between the UBEC and the pump connector) and I have a 1.0 volt drop on the negative side (have isolated it down to between the pump connector and the ground connection at the frame---the ground connection itself is good). Unfortunately, there are no connectors in between so pinpointing it further won't be as easy.

 

With the truck running, I'm seeing 11.5 volts at the pump connector. This is why the truck has gone through 5 or 6 fuel pumps. I dropped the tank and went through the whole system checking all of the o-rings, etc and everything ckd clean. Voltage dropped the wiring and BAM!!!! there it was.

 

Unfortunately, the new pump (guy just replaced it a few weeks ago) is garbage (I jumped power and ground straight from the battery and it still puts out about 48-49psi (getting worse in the last week).

 

I will post up after I replace the pump and isolate where the resistance is. I may just overlay the wiring and call it a day. What a pia.

 

P.S. I talked to Brian at Magnacharger --- Great guy to deal with and very helpful!!! Makes a person feel pretty good when they buy a product "used" and are still treated like a customer......Imagine that! Good customer service in this day and age..... :confused: About time someone had some---LOL! Thanks Brian!!!! I hope this helps someone out with a similar problem. Later.

 

 

I'm curious to know if there was a resolution to this yet or not. I will be installing mine in the next couple of weeks and mine is also an 04.

 

B

Edited by slowfive0 (see edit history)
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Thanks guys! :)

 

Just a little update, I put an amp meter on there today and the fuel pump is only pulling .45 amps at idle!!! :puke: !

 

I think the spec is 4-6 amps on a stock pump....I can't believe the truck is even running--- :wtf: !

 

 

good to hear your getting the problem worked out, good job!
Edited by slowfive0 (see edit history)
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