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low cost swaybar upgrade


jc04ss

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Could someone verify if this is true or not? It doesn't seem logical to me that you'd get enough suspension travel if it is sitting on the bump stops. Or am I totally incorrect about the function of the bump stops?

Yes on the torsion bar trucks with sport suspension (SS, VHO) the lower control arm is *just* kissing the rubber bump stop at resting ride height. And yes the bump stops are an active part of the suspension system in this design, that's why drilling the front bump stops on lowered trucks makes a major difference.

 

Mr. P.

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too late now, i took them right out. threw them away long ago. knock on wood, i havent bottomed out yet... i did order the addco sway bar for the rear and will be installing that soon as I get it. also goin to take out the bushings that come with it and do energy bushings with it.

That's cool, a lot of guys actually prefer the linear feel over the progressive feel; I would look into swapping a set of torsion bars that are about 10-15% stiffer...

 

Mr. P.

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Yes on the torsion bar trucks with sport suspension (SS, VHO) the lower control arm is *just* kissing the rubber bump stop at resting ride height. And yes the bump stops are an active part of the suspension system in this design, that's why drilling the front bump stops on lowered trucks makes a major difference.

 

Mr. P.

:thumbs: Thanks! I'll have to drive it a bit more before I'll get a feel for how much of a difference drilling the front stops made in my truck. I drilled four 1/8" holes as in the write-up. After reviewing the write-up again, I think I'm also going to remove the metal holder for the rear bump stops to gain the inch or so travel that gives. A lot of guys gave positive feedback on that.

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:thumbs: Thanks! I'll have to drive it a bit more before I'll get a feel for how much of a difference drilling the front stops made in my truck. I drilled four 1/8" holes as in the write-up. After reviewing the write-up again, I think I'm also going to remove the metal holder for the rear bump stops to gain the inch or so travel that gives. A lot of guys gave positive feedback on that.

 

that worked out good for me but i am lowered over 3 inches....i dont see how taking that plate out and bolting the bumpstop directly will help a stock height application. :dunno:

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That's cool, a lot of guys actually prefer the linear feel over the progressive feel; I would look into swapping a set of torsion bars that are about 10-15% stiffer...

 

Mr. P.

hey steve,

can you please explain the difference between linear and progressive?... :confused:

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hey steve,

can you please explain the difference between linear and progressive?... :confused:

 

Progressive means that as you compress the spring or twist the torsion bar, the stiffness goes up the more you compress or twist. That makes for a soft ride over little bumps, but the suspension stiffens up when you really push it and the suspension compresses more. Usually the coils will be closser together on one end of the coil.

 

Linear means the spring compresses at the same rate over the entire compression. This makes for a solid feel all the time. Pretty much all torsion bars are linear. You would have to have tapered torsion bars to make then progressive.

 

Most manufactures use progressive springs and nearly all competition uses linear springs. If you remove the stops then your truck will be linear in the front, but probably too soft. You could probably compensate for this with large sway bars or stiffer torsion bars.

Edited by Jeff B (see edit history)
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Much less lean. Doesn't feel like it's "plowing" as much in the turns. I drilled the bump stops this morning (only the front ones) as per Mr.P's write up. I will check the ride out later, but I can't imagine that it would be a huge improvement. Gotta get those Bilsteins soon!

 

So do you think it was a good lowcost upgrade?? Sounds like it worked out well. :driving:

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Insalled the swaybar bushings and ed link on mine last week could tell a difference the first turn i took, I went down to the local Auto Zone and found the end links on the shelf but had to order the bushings fotr the bar had them the next day cost around 42.00

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For a fairly well mechanically inclined person, is this a difficult install?

Will I need a lift? What tools are required?

 

This site continues to rock! :thumbs:

 

 

I am by no means a small guy, and i didnt even raise my truck off the ground. basic hand tools are all thats needed. A wrench and socket set will get it done really easily. I did it on mine in about 40 mins and that was screwing around in between playing with my kid.

 

EASY EASY upgrade. I say do it, if you dont try, you will never know.

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I am by no means a small guy, and i didnt even raise my truck off the ground. basic hand tools are all thats needed. A wrench and socket set will get it done really easily. I did it on mine in about 40 mins and that was screwing around in between playing with my kid.

 

EASY EASY upgrade. I say do it, if you dont try, you will never know.

On my truck, we did need a large pair of vise grips to hold the top of the stock end link to get it off. Other than that, 10mm and 14mm sockets / wrenches were all that was needed. We did it with the truck on the ground, not jacked up. I did turn the wheels to each side, just to make access a bit easier. We're doing this to Fireman31's truck tomorrow evening too.

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