Tru-Cool MAX or B&M 70274 trans cooler

[shadowsniper3006]

ok here are the part numbers i used(or should have used in the -6)

 

these part numbers are for the aeroquip fittings. you can buy them new if you want, or they are reusable so if your ok with some scratches i just found that ebay has a lot of em.

 

i used the AQP racing hose which is just a braided stainless line

 

Hose: 1 piece at 18" and 1 piece at 26"

 

in order

 

COOLER

 

to adapt cooler to -6 AN

2x male-6 to 3/8 npt: FCM2005(make sure that this comes with a crush washer because it seals on the pipe threads and washer not on the inverted flare)

 

From cooler fitting to hose

2x female -6 to hose 90 degree swivel: fcm4032

 

HOSE

 

end of hose

2x hose to -6 female straight fitting: FCM1012

 

end of hose to end of hard line adapter

2x Flare union male-6 to male -6: FCM2052 (needed to adapt the 2 female ends on the straight fitting and 3/8 hardline fitting)

 

from end of hose to stock 3/8 hardline

2x -6 AN Female to 3/8 in. Tube: 165106ERL (this is the only earl's fitting i used. i used this one because it is the best fitting for the job. The others will work, but this design makes it easy.)

 

I'm sure Earl's fittings and line will work just as good, but i have a Aeroquip dealer by me so that is why i used them. The earl's fittings i ordered from summit.

 

Remember that using -AN is a very expensive way to do things. It looks killer and function is the best, but it will cost you.

 

Don't be afraid to do it your self, it's all easy. Making the lines is not that bad. If you decide to cut them, wrap the area you want to cut in duct tape. wrap it so your cut line is in the middle of the tape, like your cutting the duct tape in half, this will stop the braid from coming apart as you cut. Use an abrasive wheel to cut through it, whether it is on a chop saw or die grinder a saw blade will fray the braid and be a pain. Once the lines are cut(if you choose to cut them, the lengths i said above will work), unwrap the tape. at this time you need to unscrew the -AN fitting half's(seperate the fitting you will be using). Then put a little anti seize on the end of the braided line(OD on the braid) and on the part of the -AN fitting that goes inside the line(this will be clear when you have the fittings in your hand) . Take the cap of the -AN fitting and put the line into it all the way until it bottoms out, twisting it on like a screw helps. Then put the cap/line into a vise with soft jaws/vise with a rag over the cap/vise with anything to protect the finish(unless you don't care), or if you don't have a vise use the appropriate size wrench(being careful not to scratch the fitting). Then stick the other half of the fitting into the line and push down while you start to screw it in, the threads will catch and it will get progressively harder to tighten as the part of the fitting that projects into the hose starts to seal the further down it goes. Screw the fitting down until you get between 1/32 and 1/16 gap between the cap and screw(other half). don't go until they touch, it's not needed. Then you can repeat this again, again and again until you done.

 

Hope this helps and hope i didn't leave anything out.

Edited April 10, 2007 by shadowsniper3006 (see edit history)

[wody]

perfect! thanks again man.

[12'SROCK]

 

 

 

 

 

i put my tru-cool max in the bottom air dam and hooked it up with the supplied fittings and hoses. it also has dual fans 800 cfm each. the trans cooler was one of my best mods so far.

[Simon]

Just mounted mine this weekend with the coolant bypass. I works real good. it brings the tranny faster to operation temp which is good because my tranny shifts hard when cold and it keeps it at 165 when I go crazy like at the track. Otherwise it stays around 150.

Edited April 27, 2007 by Simon (see edit history)

[AK04SS]

so living in AK, would i need the tranny cooler with or without the bypass?