I CORNER Posted September 24, 2013 Report Share Posted September 24, 2013 Has anyone used theses? http://www.clearimageautomotive.com/Chevy%...Y%20headers.htm I used a set of tri-Y headers with ceramic coating from clear-image on my 1996 Impala SS with their high flow cats. For the Impala LT1, they were probably the best quality and most effective street performance header out there. I ran them for 4 years without so much as a hint of a leak or any discoloring of the ceramic coating. It was a really good product. Their high flow cats were also VERY good quality with a 304 stainless steel wound core substrate, not this ceramic crap. Overall a thing of beauty/art! Not sure about truck headers he now makes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I CORNER Posted September 24, 2013 Report Share Posted September 24, 2013 Sorry, new to site... Still trying to figure out how everything works... Just ordered a set of Dynatech headers, should be here Monday. Figured I'll tackle the install next weekend, wondered if anyone has any advice or warnings before I do??? I put a set of SLP headers on a 2000 Firehawk, figure it can't be worse than that... I have the original factory cat/pipe fail on my SSS (rattling, just starting to block & check engine light). Dealer wants $1050 per driver's side and pass side $2100 total) to replace ($883 for just each part)!! Local parts store can't ID part and online factory replacement simply do not seem to be the same quality level. So I might as well go with new Dynatech back to exhaust for less price, like I did on 96 Impala when factory manifold cracked (Clear Image set up that was great). I am curious to know how the Dynatechs do for you. Looks like plenty of room to work on the SSS from above and below (Dynatech has you going thru the fender well as well), so it should not be bad at all. I put in JBA ceramic headers in my 94 Z28 (which were tough to resolve collector flange leaks), which was a cramped hassle and of course I put headers in three 1970's Pontiac TransAms. If you can handle 1970's Pontiacs downward facing exhaust bolts into the engine crossover frame in an F-Body, then you can handle installing headers in about anything!! Man it would take 20 minutes per bolt to get the threads to start, as all you could only use 2 finger tips (no room for thumbs) to start the bolts on the thread! Chevys are SOOOO much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I CORNER Posted September 24, 2013 Report Share Posted September 24, 2013 (edited) I recently finished installing some Dynatech Supermaxx Headers & High Flow Cats and let me tell you, not an adventure I want to relive. Before installation I suggest you get them ceramic coated. I had them painted black to help dissipate the heat better, at least thats what I heard and it looks much cleaner. With a little retuning, the truck sounds and runs like a dream. Yes, it was one of the worst seven hours Ive went through and theyre a little pricey but well worth it. Tube/firewall spacing wasnt an issue. I have more pics if interested. Be sure to read the instructions first, they have some helpful tips. I ordered mine through summitracing.com but had to deal with Dynatech customer support, good people. The headers were shipped with the wrong wiring harness and w/out header bolts. Dynatech shipped them out free of charge, ask for Ray Thanks by the way. Some Extra Tips: Before tear down check the O2 sensor extension provided with the D-side REAR/after cat O2 sensor harness. I have two different O2 sensor harnesses, before and after the cat. For AWD, youll have to drop the driveshaft to install. Dont forget to completely secure the harness up and out of the way of not only the cat but also the driveshaft. Keep the driveshaft off/loose to help with access to the last header bolt. If you dont have a lift, find a friend who has one. I did mine in my driveway and my neck was screaming by the end of the day. Dont worry, it can be done. If you dont have break free for the stock collector bolts be prepared to use your handle from your jack stand w/a breaker bar and be prepared for a good time. Come time for header alignment/installation, get a friend to either feed the header through or finger thread a couple bolts. If your headers dont come back from coating with plastic wrapping, wrap the headers in a couple trash bags while feeding the header through the frame and motor and tear off when done. This will help to keep a good looking ceramic coat/paint job. Stuff a rag or towel in between the area where the tubes come together. I had to take off the D-side header to fish out my elbow and 10mm socket, not fun. I used the clamps provided but I recommend using better ones or squirt some hi temp RTV in the clamp crimp point. Exhaust tends to leak from there the most and the whole clamp doesn't really secure around the edges. P-side after cat clamp is going to be a little tricky, play with it to find wrench access. I put mine at the 9 o-clock position. Depending on spacing, you might have to put a support bracket on the D-side tubing after the support frame. This will keep it from vibrating on the support frame. Three wrenches that are a must; 17mm, 15mm and 14mm ratcheting wrenches. You dont need them but theyre nice to have come tightening collectors and clamps. Have fun Ahhh, Must have been one of your first header installs, as a truck is far easier to do header installs (when system is properly designed) than any F-Body of any year! Of course getting the exhaust system bolts/nuts off of a higher mileage vehicle is always a challenge. I have more tools for headers and exhaust work than anything else from prior 1970's Pontiacs, and my prior 94 Z28. The 96 Impals SS was not too bad. On F-Bodies, sockets cannot even be used on most of the bolts. It is common to use different types/lengths/angles of open, box and ratcheting wrenches (shorties, full length, etc). Use stainless header studs whereever you can, so you can hang the gaskets and header on the head using as many as possible to set up. Then for areas that won't accept studs, due to clearance with the nuts to tubes or length of the stud, use stainless bolts. Always use antiseize. Were room permits use bolt locks (i.e. stage 8). The Dynatech stainless header flange gaskets appear good, but I have found that the Earls aluminum gaskets with graphite inserts handle the heat and do NOT leak. Copper and Aluminum header flange gaskets did not work for me. Never use paper gaskets or any variant of paper, If collector flange is an old style 3 of 4 bolt flange, the only gasket that I found to work was a "flexitallic" style, which has spiral wound bands of steel wrapped around and perpendicular to the flange seat. Copper, thin or thick malleable aluminum did not work. Never use paper. For the pipe slip fits, the walker stainless steel band clamps work well, but I wrap a carefull layer of header tubing insulator wrap inbetween clamp and tubes, to avoid leaks. Extra hands always helps, but usually most of the work can be done without. Good comment on protecting header from scratches during test fit or install. Also invest in some spark plug wire slip on thermal heat barrier socks to prevent heat degradation to the plug wires. Ceramic coating is a must, or you will cook everything. Edited September 24, 2013 by I CORNER (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dgiorgi34 Posted February 21, 2014 Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 Im picking up a set now, but the gentlemen asked if if both sides were flanged at the header , or if one has a "ball and socket" joint he said. I've never heard it mentioned that before but what the hell. Thanks guys... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxfox14 Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 would schoefelds be good on the ss's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JC03SS Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 I'd go with some Dynatechs or something like that you being in Va. Personally for the price my pacesetters have paid for themselves many times over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxfox14 Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 On my 86 I had hookers and they were pretty good and thanks ill look them up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxfox14 Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 I'd go with some Dynatechs or something like that you being in Va. Personally for the price my pacesetters have paid for themselves many times over. Do you know how much hp you gained off pacesetters? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JC03SS Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 I really couldn't tell ya just a guess I'd say it should free up a 15 to 20hp. They have been great and have been on since 06. I also don't have snow here just a lot of rain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxfox14 Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 It snowed here today well still is and hopefully get some before the years over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RottenSS Posted September 26, 2014 Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 So I'm thinking about getting a set of pacesetter headers. Not sure if I'm getting coated or not but I'm new to having an SS truck and parts and working on a motor besides simple CAI. So if I buy these what else do I need? A Y pipe? And is this all bolt on or is their welding involved? I have a 2003 SS Silverado with all stock exhaust. Any help and info would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onebadmax Posted October 4, 2014 Report Share Posted October 4, 2014 If you buy pacesetters, there will be welding involved. ARH and dynatech are true bolt on systems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NipRing Posted October 4, 2014 Report Share Posted October 4, 2014 I'm trying to decide between the ARH and the Dynatech. Any advice which goes in easier for an AWD? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coal miner Posted October 4, 2014 Report Share Posted October 4, 2014 I have Arh and they fit like a glove. Can't go wrong with ether IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnyss Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 Hey recently just got a 2003 ss! It has magnaflow exhaust catback True dual... My next move is headers and i think I'm gonna go with the pacesetter longtube. Or somthing in that price range... I don't mind removing the cats but if someone could say here a link these bolt right on with your setup it would be much appreciated!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.