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Big 3- Power from Alt (?)


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Hey guys,

I am a tad confused when trying to accomplish the Big 3. I did the grounds, at least I think I did.

So now where does the Power Go? If I am looking at it correctally 1 of 2 things is happening.

 

1) the power wire goes back, down, around the T-case pan then back somewhere around the oil pan, then I lost it. There is also some funny stuff going on inside the "red box"! If I read it right there is a small gauge wire directly from the battery to the fuse block. Is this the correct fuse block that I need to upgrade?

 

2) there is an 8 guage wire from the alt, to the "red box" and then I get lost.

 

 

~side note I grounded the batt to the chasis where there was a prexisting hole for the block heater tie-down. I also ran a ground to the Alt bolt near the "GND" marking. Is that good enough? and does that count? I guess it would not for the Chasis-to-Engine, or would it?

 

PowerfromAlt.jpg

Ground.jpg

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The OEM red plastic box between the Alt & Bat is a fusible link.

 

The golden rule in aftermarket electrical is to design your upgrades so that no matter what failure occurs downstream in your wiring the OEM harness is protected from destruction; if you compete in ISACA/USAC they will really ding you points if your wiring install is inadequate, or grossly oversized, or (most importantly) leaves any part of the OEM wiring in the vehicle at risk.

 

My suggestion is that you run a short length of upgraded (larger) wire from the Alt to the Bat with a correct-sized fuse between them, and on the Pos Bat terminal use a 3-way connector so it looks something like this:

 

AltWiring1.gif

 

Also remember to mount your fuses as close as possible to the source, not the load/equipment.

 

Mr. P. :)

 

edit - well I looked and can't find a company that makes a 3-way battery terminal connector :uhoh: so I welcome criticism from the professionals! :doh:

Edited by misterp
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The OEM red plastic box between the Alt & Bat is a fusible link.

 

The golden rule in aftermarket electrical is to design your upgrades so that no matter what failure occurs downstream in your wiring the OEM harness is protected from destruction; if you compete in ISACA/USAC they will really ding you points if your wiring install is inadequate, or grossly oversized, or (most importantly) leaves any part of the OEM wiring in the vehicle at risk.

 

My suggestion is that you run a short length of upgraded (larger) wire from the Alt to the Bat with a correct-sized fuse between them, and on the Pos Bat terminal use a 3-way connector so it looks something like this:

 

AltWiring1.gif

 

Also remember to mount your fuses as close as possible to the load/equipment, not the source.

 

Mr. P. :)

 

 

Mr.P.... we need to talk, i wont rip on your 3 way battery terminal problem, as MonsterCable makes one. but you NEED to fuse your power wire BEFORE it goes thru the firewall as to not burn down the vehicle! you may also fuse at the amps but before any wire goes thru metal it needs to be fused! just a quik note. not ripping on you. also I LOVE the drawing! :cool:

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Mr.P.... we need to talk, i wont rip on your 3 way battery terminal problem, as MonsterCable makes one. but you NEED to fuse your power wire BEFORE it goes thru the firewall as to not burn down the vehicle! you may also fuse at the amps but before any wire goes thru metal it needs to be fused! just a quik note. not ripping on you. also I LOVE the drawing!  :cool:
:cool: No offense taken, thanks for reminding me of that detail, it's been years and this morning I had forgotten that. I completely agree fusing is *critical*. I'll add-in the suggested fuse and the firewall to the drawing and repost it, no biggie I did it in Visio :thumbs: I think I will also re-do the drawing to use a dual-post battery (like the Optima) that way you only need to buy a high-capacity 2-way terminal adapter...

 

Mr. P. :)

Edited by misterp
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Mr.P.... we need to talk, i wont rip on your 3 way battery terminal problem, as MonsterCable makes one. but you NEED to fuse your power wire BEFORE it goes thru the firewall as to not burn down the vehicle! you may also fuse at the amps but before any wire goes thru metal it needs to be fused! just a quik note. not ripping on you. also I LOVE the drawing!  :cool:
:cool: No offense taken, thanks for reminding me of that detail, it's been years and this morning I had forgotten that. I completely agree fusing is *critical*. I'll add-in the suggested fuse and the firewall to the drawing and repost it, no biggie I did it in Visio :thumbs: I think I will also re-do the drawing to use a dual-post battery (like the Optima) that way you only need to buy a high-capacity 2-way terminal adapter...

 

Mr. P. :)

here's a visual of the diagram misterp drew, you can't see the fuses but they are just on the back side of the battery

 

battery.jpg

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