Bowtie70SS Posted January 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2007 Yeah you gotta take the bolt all the way out...the nut has an angle on it that keeps it from turing when you loosen or tightn the bolt. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadowns Posted January 10, 2007 Report Share Posted January 10, 2007 Remove the bolt completly. The nut is next to the engine and is captive on a L shaped bracket. Turm the BOLT with a 15 mm wrench and remove it. Slide the black cover piece up toward the fire wall and back. Repeat about 10 to 15 times to distribute the grease in the tube. Line up the holes again and tighten the bolt and nut assembly. Do not leave the L bracket touching the shaft as this will cause a vibration. 15 minutes tops for the whole thing. CD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wody Posted January 11, 2007 Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 got mine taken care of. feels a lot better. soild around slow turns. now i just have to tear down the door panel and find out what came loose in there and fix the rattle. its driving me nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
punkt71 Posted January 15, 2007 Report Share Posted January 15, 2007 Thanx for the tip man!!! It worked awesome.... took 10 mins at the most, and my steering feels BRAND NEW. Good thing you did this, because I was about ready to ghost ride my truck into the front window of my local Chevy dealer.... it would have been the 2nd time in 1 yr taking it to them to fix this problem!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allballz57 Posted January 15, 2007 Report Share Posted January 15, 2007 I tried it after having a bunch of beers and i'm telling ya it took forever,I didn't think I was ever gonna get it off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shakesvho Posted January 15, 2007 Report Share Posted January 15, 2007 Remove the bolt completly. The nut is next to the engine and is captive on a L shaped bracket. Turm the BOLT with a 15 mm wrench and remove it. Slide the black cover piece up toward the fire wall and back. Repeat about 10 to 15 times to distribute the grease in the tube. Line up the holes again and tighten the bolt and nut assembly. Do not leave the L bracket touching the shaft as this will cause a vibration. Is this a problem on the SS only or all Silverado Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smit Posted January 15, 2007 Report Share Posted January 15, 2007 both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chpspecial Posted January 17, 2007 Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 Add one more to the stroked shaft procedure. My steering was sloopy and now it is nice and tight again. I even have better feedback from my tires now too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcjtgm Posted January 27, 2007 Report Share Posted January 27, 2007 Add a 2004 Z-71 to the fix list as well. My locale dealer wanted $150 to do this service. What a rip off. Should I say my EX-Dealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shakesvho Posted January 27, 2007 Report Share Posted January 27, 2007 I found a help video on another site if you're not clear on how to do this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chpspecial Posted January 28, 2007 Report Share Posted January 28, 2007 I found a help video on another site if you're not clear on how to do this but I must of had done something wrong, my truck didn't squirt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyjenkins Posted January 28, 2007 Report Share Posted January 28, 2007 Hey guys Thanks for the tip of sliding the steering shaft in and out,I just did that and that damn clunking has gone, Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WEEZARR1&SS Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 Thanks For the Info.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slj Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 Less than 5 mins, 15 strokes, and Free... It's Miller time!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ro9beam2002 Posted February 1, 2007 Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 yet another new fix... but i still like stroking mine:) Permanent fix for steering shaft clunk Subject: Clunking Noise Under Hood and Can Be Felt in Steering Wheel and/or Steering Column (Replace Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft (I-Shaft) Assembly) #00-02-35-003M - (01/31/2007) Models: 2002-2006 Cadillac Escalade Models 1999-2007 Chevrolet Silverado Models (Classic) 2000-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe Models 2002-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche 1999-2007 GMC Sierra Models (Classic) 2000-2006 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL Models 2003-2006 HUMMER H2 Attention: This Service Bulletin DOES NOT include Mid-Size Utilities such as Buick Rainier, Chevrolet TrailBlazer Models, GMC Envoy Models or Oldsmobile Bravada. Refer to Service Bulletin 02-02-35-006A or newer for Mid-Size Utilities. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This bulletin is being revised to update the repair procedure with a permanent fix. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-02-35-003L (Section 02 -- Steering). -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- C ondition Some customers may comment on a clunk-type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces. Diagnostic Tips Use the information below to help diagnose the source of the noise. • Frame Snap and/or Popping Type Noise -- A frame snap or popping type noise can be duplicated on rough or smooth road surfaces with steering wheel input to the left or the right. This type of noise can be HEARD and is typically louder with the windows rolled down. For additional information, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-61-002F or newer -- Snap/Popping Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle (Remove Front Crossmember, Change Fastener Orientation). • Intermediate Shaft Clunk -- Intermediate shaft clunk is heard and FELT in the steering wheel and/or steering column area, typically while driving on rough road surfaces with steering wheel input. Correction DO THIS DON'T DO THIS Replace the I-Shaft with P/N 19153614. Do NOT lubricate or exercise the I-Shaft. Important: • I-shaft P/N 19155614 has been designed to replace previous designed dampened and non-dampened I-shafts. The physical difference in the yoke size will accommodate all vehicles listed in this bulletin. • Due to the design of the new I-shaft, it is not possible to lubricate/grease the I-shaft. Replace the steering column upper intermediate shaft with an improved design shaft that will eliminate the clunk noise using the procedure listed below. Set the front wheels in the straight ahead position. Notice: On the 2002 and later model year vehicles, the steering column LOCK was removed from the steering column. It is critical that the J 42640 - Steering column Anti-Rotation Pin is used when servicing steering columns on 2002 and later model year vehicles. Failure to use the J 42640 may result in damage to the SIR coil. Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position on 2001 and prior model year vehicles. For 2002 and later vehicles, install the J 42640 in the steering column lower access hole. From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft. Slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft. For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps: 6.1. Reposition the carpet away from the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor. 6.2. Remove the two nuts retaining the accelerator pedal to the bulkhead. 6.3. Reposition the accelerator pedal out of the way so the intermediate shaft can be removed. From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection. Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly. 8.1. From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column. 8.2. From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft from the vehicle. Replace the upper intermediate shaft. Install the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft. Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft. Install the upper bolt and nut. Tighten Tighten the bolt to 47 N·m (35 lb ft). Install the lower bolt and nut. Tighten Tighten the bolt to 50 N·m (37 lb ft). For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps: 14.1. Reposition the accelerator pedals into position on the bulkhead. 14.2. Install the two retaining nuts. Tighten Tighten the nuts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft). 14.3. Reposition the carpet into place. Parts Information Part Number Description 19153614 Shaft - Upper Intermediate Steering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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