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so I know this is pretty lame, but when you are on the street and want to race, how do you turn on the NOS?? I mean the only time i've seen NOS is on Fast and the Furious :) , and when they race he used to turn the nob on the bottle to enable the flow. Do you have to do this as well, meaning does it have to be in the cab with you? Or can it always be on but just off to the computer?

 

:wtf:

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According to NHTOC, the SS that ran two 12.8 runs and one 12.9 run at the truck wars in Tucson this past weekend has run a best of 12.65@108 w/1.71 60ft. His mods include, custom 3.5"exhaust, headers, ported throttle body, N/X 150 hp kit, and a little custom chip tuning.

 

Not a huge amount of money thrown in. Sounds like this may be the ticket for those trying to get there.

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so I know this is pretty lame, but when you are on the street and want to race, how do you turn on the NOS?? I mean the only time i've seen NOS is on Fast and the Furious :) , and when they race he used to turn the nob on the bottle to enable the flow. Do you have to do this as well, meaning does it have to be in the cab with you? Or can it always be on but just off to the computer?

 

:wtf:

Remote bottle opener :thumbs:

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There is the physical flow of the bottle. You can leave the knob turned on all the time, but in my experience, it will slowly leak out and you'll empty the botte much sooner. A remote opener is an electric device that physically opens the valve for you, so you can have it mounted in the bed or tool box. Otherwise, its mounting it in the cab so you can open it as needed (which I am doing for now).

 

After the physical flow is opened, the nitrous is held back by an electric solenoid (valve) opens when you hit the "go" button (and meet some other safety measures).

 

On a dry kit, the nitrous is shot into the intake alone near the air filter. On a wet kit, nitrous is mixed with fuel (hence "wet"), and sprayed in after the MAF sensor. In the dry kit, the MAF reads the extra flow and tells the PCM to add more fuel by the injectors. In a wet system, the PCM has no clue whats hitting it. A direct port system is a wet system that has 8 small nozzles that spray directly into each chamber in the same location as the fuel injector.

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Dry uses the trucks fuel injectors to compensate for the needed fuel. Wet adds the needed fuel on its own. Some say dry is easier to custom tune, but I can't say on that. I do know that the SS comes with pretty small fuel injectors from the factory. If you run a dry shot, you run the risk of needing more fuel than the stock injector can handle. This is a very dangerous situation. As it stands, I would not even run a dry 100 shot on the stock injectors. With nitrous, you want to err on the side of too much fuel. Going lean is a big no-no.

 

With a wet shot, you don't have to worry about fuel injectors, but you do need to watch your fuel pressure. The stock system should be able to support good bolt ons and a 100 shot pretty easily. At the 150 shot level, I'd be getting concerned about the fuel system. Adding an inline pump similar to what the Radix kits come with would be the easiest fix.

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I was looking at a 50 shot. That's after some custom tuning, smaller pulley, headers and exhaust, and e-fans. We'll see how it does after that, then make the decision. May be all the tranny can handle.

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I was looking at a 50 shot.  That's after some custom tuning, smaller pulley, headers and exhaust, and e-fans.  We'll see how it does after that, then make the decision.  May be all the tranny can handle.

 

A 50 shot will have nice punch to it with the SC. More like hitting a 100 shot. My Lightning really wakes up with just a 50 shot. You'll like it. :smash:

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Dont mean to get off topic but do yall think asp pullies and elctric fans in combo would yield more seat of the pants gains than headers alone....contemplating going one way or another.....I hate to get all of them at once.....easier to hide in little bits at a time :D

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Hey Blackhawk,

 

 

The FJO wideband 02 sensor just monitors your a/f ratio. You can not change anything with it. It is sure a nice tool to have as Though. I was thinking too, that I would invest in a fuel pressure gauge as well. I am not sure how much fuel your pump puts out, but if one should start to go bad and you are under boost you can lean out in a hurry and do some serious damage and not have the slightest hint as to why.

How big is the intercooler radiator on your kit. I did some extensive testing on mine and found that by 1) going to a bigger int. cooler Rad, you can decrease your inlet temps considerably. 2) adding fans to it helped. I found the intercooler pump on my truck passed the fluid through it so fast that it isn't in it long enough to get its full effect. 3) a larger res. tank help out as well.

Just some more food for though..lol When supercharging the mod bug need fed and never is full..lol I know....

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