SSilverado60 Posted October 10, 2003 Report Share Posted October 10, 2003 The benefit of torsion bar keys instead of just turning out the adjusters is that you keep the stock spring rate even though you just lowered the car 2". So that way you still have the factory style ride up front even though it is dropped. I say screw the torsion bars. IM gonna do coilovers Right now i have the front dropped about 1.5" just so the truck doesnt look so high. but when it comes time to do the whole suspension the way i want it. IM gonna have some coilovers made for the front and use hotckis drop springs for the rear. Then throw on a set of hotchkis sway bars while im there. That should go really well with the supercharger To those that have lowered their truck already in the rear, Wasnt someone saying that they were having driveshaft clearance problems? I thought a crossmember had to be modified or something in order to drop it because the driveshaft could hit it. From looking under my truck they seem pretty close already. thats part of the reason why i havent lowered mine yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m396 #00-011 Posted October 10, 2003 Report Share Posted October 10, 2003 Wasnt someone saying that they were having driveshaft clearance problems? I thought a crossmember had to be modified or something in order to drop it because the driveshaft could hit it. From looking under my truck they seem pretty close already. thats part of the reason why i havent lowered mine yet. That was Dale. They somehow modified his crossmember so the driveshaft wouldn't rub. Try to find Dale for any more info. Dale's lowered Link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfs41 Posted October 10, 2003 Report Share Posted October 10, 2003 vdrumright Posted on Oct 10 2003, 02:44 PM OK, here I go starting trouble. I don't understand what all the hoopla is about the GF lowering kit. The only thing the kit provides, that those of us who didn't use it, is shocks and keys. 1. Unless I'm wrong, the only thing the keys do is reindex the position where the adjusting bolt comes in contact with it. Both methods unload the torsion bars equally. Those of us without them have more bolt sticking out below the cross member than those that do. 2. We cut our bump stops, the kit came with them. I can't see any difference that would have. If you bottom out the suspension on the stops I think we both would have the same results. 3. Both methods replace the rear shackles. 4. Personally I haven't had any driveline vibrations since I've lowered mine. If I did i would have the drive shaft rebalanced before I would start shimming. a 2" drop should not affect the driveline angle enough to create a vibration. 5. The method I chose was easily done in an hour. Saving the expense of have a mechanic do it. 6. Both methods require a complete wheel alignment when done. I guess it's a matter of what people choose to spend their money on. I wouldnt spend my money on that kit. Don't get me wrong, i have bought and installed approximatly 8 lift kits of variuos vehicles that i've owned over the years. 6" lifts to 5"-7" drops. After studing what it took to lower the SS, I didnt see the need to buy a kit. I see the kit prices ranging from $365.00 to $399.00 plus installation, plus alignment. I have $45.00 plus cost of aligment in the method I chose. I'll wait until Edelbrock completes their testing on their shock for the SS. Then i will start comparing shocks. Absolutely! I,too have lowered several GM trucks over the years, and all points made by vdrumright are bang on. As discussed in other posts, the vibration was eliminated with balancing the driveshaft. I would also like a set of the Edelbrock shocks!!!!! Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vdrumright Posted October 11, 2003 Report Share Posted October 11, 2003 I say screw the torsion bars. IM gonna do coilovers IM gonna have some coilovers made for the front and use hotckis drop springs for the rear. Then throw on a set of hotchkis sway bars while im there. Now thats worth spending money on........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vdrumright Posted October 11, 2003 Report Share Posted October 11, 2003 Wasnt someone saying that they were having driveshaft clearance problems? I thought a crossmember had to be modified or something in order to drop it because the driveshaft could hit it. From looking under my truck they seem pretty close already. thats part of the reason why i havent lowered mine yet. That was Dale. They somehow modified his crossmember so the driveshaft wouldn't rub. Try to find Dale for any more info. Dale's lowered Link Dale had new rear spring hangers and shakles installed on his truck for a total 3" drop. Thats why there was a possible crossmember clearance issue. The shakle method alone is only a 2" drop. I have bottomed out my rear suspension since i've lowered mine. It hit the bump stops like is is suppose to. I looked after it happened. no marks of any kind on the driveshaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bad ss Posted October 11, 2003 Report Share Posted October 11, 2003 Talked to Kevin at Ground Force today and this is how he explained the torsion keys. If you lower with the stock torsion keys what you are actually doing is losing the tension on the torsion bars, though you are actually lowering the vehicle. By replacing the keys what you are doing is keeping the the tension on the torsion bars and lowering it at the same time. Basically what the post above from SSsilverado60 says. There is no hoopla about the GF kit, some of us choose to do things the right way. Ive read alot of posts where people are complaining about their lowering job after it is done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vdrumright Posted October 11, 2003 Report Share Posted October 11, 2003 Talked to Kevin at Ground Force today and this is how he explained the torsion keys. If you lower with the stock torsion keys what you are actually doing is losing the tension on the torsion bars, though you are actually lowering the vehicle. By replacing the keys what you are doing is keeping the the tension on the torsion bars and lowering it at the same time. Basically what the post above from SSsilverado60 says. There is no hoopla about the GF kit, some of us choose to do things the right way. Ive read alot of posts where people are complaining about their lowering job after it is done. So youre implying by your statement above, that unless you buy a kit, any other method of lowering is wrong? I personally don't mind less tension on the front torsion bars. I live in Michigan and we don't have the smoothest roads. The frost plays hell of the roads here. That's why our state tree ia a orange construction barrell. Before I let some of the tension off the torsion bars I felt every crack and bump in the road. Since i've lowered it, it's a little softer in the front and more enjoyable to drive. I don't think it changed the handling charistics below my expectations or some others on here that have lowered their truck in this method. I think what it comes down to is personal preference on how you want your suspension to feel, not a matter of right versus wrong. And of coures, Kevin at GF is going to pursuade you that any other method is wrong. He wants to sell you a kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bad ss Posted October 11, 2003 Report Share Posted October 11, 2003 What i was impling is that some people on here have lowered their SS basically the same way you have and are not happy with results(vibration). Now they want to try a method that is proven to work with no complaints. Sorry you took it the wrong way but i didnt like your "hoopla" comment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vdrumright Posted October 11, 2003 Report Share Posted October 11, 2003 What i was impling is that some people on here have lowered their SS basically the same way you have and are not happy with results(vibration). Now they want to try a method that is proven to work with no complaints. Sorry you took it the wrong way but i didnt like your "hoopla" comment. Their vibration problems has noting to do with the torsion keys. Tension is what holds our front suspension at the height they are when they are stock. The only way to lower the front is to unload the torsion bar which in turn lowers the suspension. The new keys reclock the point where the screw comes in contact with the key which in turn allows you to lower the front more that without them. regardless which method is used we use. inch for inch we all have the same tension on them. The four wheelers are replacing their key to go higher. their keys are clocked the opposite of the ones that comes in lowering kits. Thus the more they crank their bolts in the stiffer their suspensions become and the more lift they get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vdrumright Posted October 11, 2003 Report Share Posted October 11, 2003 What i was impling is that some people on here have lowered their SS basically the same way you have and are not happy with results(vibration). Now they want to try a method that is proven to work with no complaints. Sorry you took it the wrong way but i didnt like your "hoopla" comment. Does the GF kit come with pinion shims? If not there is nothing in that kit that would make a difference in eliminating a driveline vibration. Those type of vibrations are only corrected by a pinion angle change Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bad ss Posted October 11, 2003 Report Share Posted October 11, 2003 no there are no shims included because they are not needed. as i mentioned in another post, when GF was doing my SS they did encounter a vibration . They thought it was coming from the rear and tried shimming but no solution. In the end they said that the vibration was coming from the front through the transfer and making it feel like it was in the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rico750sxi Posted October 11, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2003 Here's my take on it. I tried lowering by cranking the bars and using BellTech shackles. No one seems to be able to cure their vibration issues and I haven't been able to cure mine. The GroundForce kit has made two people very happy and has no vibrations. Therefore, I'm going with what is going to get my truck feeling right. Maybe if I played with different shims and different this and that I would eventually get it cured. Too me it's worth the money to have it solved right away. I tried, I failed, I moved on. I just want my truck right again. Now I will do the rear first and test drive it, if the vibration is gone I'm leaving the front alone except the shocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightshift Posted October 13, 2003 Report Share Posted October 13, 2003 I'd be more comfortable going with the kit. We have a reputable 4wheel drive sales/service in the area, I'll look into how much $$$ for the G/F kit installed. This forum is addicting, always finding new ways to spend money... The Avalanche forum is the same way... wonder why that is?? WW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted October 13, 2003 Report Share Posted October 13, 2003 This forum is addicting, always finding new ways to spend money... This forum hasn't affected me at all when it comes to mods. I don't know what you're talking about. I would have wanted to do them all anyway. ;) Just practicing what I tell my wife. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted October 13, 2003 Report Share Posted October 13, 2003 Keep practicing, homes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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