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SS is sick


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When you said your truck seemed like a V6. Our trucks have a HO, and a LO timming table. When the knock sensor noticed a predetonation, the computer went into "safe" mode or LO.

 

Oil from air filter will land on the hot wire to the maf, and cause an electrical short. i run oilless, or paper filters. the paper filter out flows the K&N anyways on the flow bench.

 

grab yourself a can of Sea-Foam, and do an injector cleaning yourself for $5, open a vacuum line and let it suck it into your intake to clean that. then pour the rest inyour gas tank and some in your crank case. change oil within 500 miles and presto...back to new.

 

did you put in NGK plugs? take them out and put back the Delcos that are recomended for your car. a colder plug on a N/A car will yield less performance, more unburnt fuel....leading to plugged cats.

 

always run the highest pump gas octaine you can get. our vehicals will learn different octain levels and adjust accordingly. do not for any reason run RACE GAS! the lead will plug your cats in a "heart Beat" if you hop around on octane levels your tuck will get confused. on a 10 compresion motor, keep it to Premium Fuel. Low octane levels may cause a misfire, and predetonation......doublely with some sort of aftermarket intake.

 

a better question is do you have the K&N 77(?), intake or just the drop in filter?

 

get a mail order tune, i liked Wait4MePerformance. I use a F.A.S.T. on my mustang and turned every nut and bolt, but for the money W4ME is good enough. then ditch the K&N and go back to the factory air box with the paper filter. K&N is a "Precharge" filter, it don't filter crap.

 

I also like AMS oil, always have had good luck with filters and their oil. I like the european 5w-40 weight with there standard filter, not there 100,000 mile filter. I also run the 6.0L motor oil filter from 2001. it is a larger filter for some odd reason. same threads, diameter etc...

 

most of all talk to knowledgeable peple, not folks that have only "paid" for their first HP engine. that is not a shot against anybody here.....just a rule of thumb.

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ok it was a pain, but i got all the plugs AND wires replaced.

I notice the truck does run quite a bit nicer, better throttle response, etc... just plain better

 

BU THAT DAMNED LIGHT IS STILL ON!

 

when i hit between 65 and 70, the light goes to flashing. I slow down, comes back to solid..

 

im thinking at this point.. O2 sensor???

take it to a diferent dealer and let them scan it. im a fuel and drivability technician at a chevrolet dealer. ya cant jump to conclusions with just a light, ya gotta know what dtc is setting to cause the light and diagnose from there. the flashing ses light means that your converters are being damaged from the misfire cause the exhaust gases are not right like there being un-burned fuel etc. if u can get it scanned and post what the code is.

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