smithl3 Posted May 24, 2006 Report Share Posted May 24, 2006 Guys, When my truck blew up from the clogged cat over a year ago I bough the block for a core charge. Now I have the old 6.0L sitting in the garage and I wanted to re-build it as a spare for god knows what down the road. Assuming it might go back into the truck I was thinking about the Lingenfelter GT2-3 LS1 Camshaft. If I get the name right, I think Blownchevy runs this cam in his crew cab with some good results. I know he has a radix which is a little different combination, but boost, is boost it should run just as good in my truck once it is rolling. All the rest of the motor is good, and specs out ok, but one of the factory cam bearings wasn't seated fully and the oil galley actually bled oil into the crank case and that explains my low oil pressure issue I also had. Because of the cam bearing not being seated, it kind of messed up the second cam land and now I need the new cam. Either way, I am looking to see if you all think this owuld be a worth while decision considering everything else on the inside is stock, and I still have my procharger. Here are the specs straight from the site: Camshaft specifications: 207/220 573/.580 w 1.7 rocker 118.5 CL Yummy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantwomey Posted May 24, 2006 Report Share Posted May 24, 2006 I'm running the GT2-3 N/A right now and I'm very happy. Idle is stock-like and it pulls well. Regards, Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted May 24, 2006 Report Share Posted May 24, 2006 Why do you need a new cam just from the one bearing not being seated? Did it spin - I assume so? They make oversized bearings for the LS1 that have a larger OD, but the same ID. That is all you need to do there and you need to bore out the area .001" or so. Could be more, just depends on the spec of the bearing. All of that would not require you to get a new cam though, unless there is some damage to it. I don't see how it would have gotten damage though. Why not just put the cam in the motor that is in your truck now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCIV Posted May 24, 2006 Report Share Posted May 24, 2006 I have one getting ready to go in with my ATI Procharger. That cam came highly recommended for my boosted application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithl3 Posted May 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2006 Why do you need a new cam just from the one bearing not being seated? Did it spin - I assume so? They make oversized bearings for the LS1 that have a larger OD, but the same ID. That is all you need to do there and you need to bore out the area .001" or so. Could be more, just depends on the spec of the bearing. All of that would not require you to get a new cam though, unless there is some damage to it. I don't see how it would have gotten damage though. Why not just put the cam in the motor that is in your truck now? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> BenKey, I can actually catch an edge with my finger nail on that particular area where the bearing was. The one side of the cam land that didn't ride on a bearing is a little higher and stained the color of motor oil. I think more than anything else, it was all the convincing I needed to simply decide to get a new cam. Trust me I want to put the cam in my truck, I never have done one while the motor was still in, so would be a new experience for me. I would also have to change the springs, so I am looking at quite some time to get it all done. Not sure when I would do it. That and I have no spring compression tools, I would have to buy all the extra stuff. What does it cost to install a can at at a performance garage? I have one getting ready to go in with my ATI Procharger. That cam came highly recommended for my boosted application. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> That is good to hear that it comes highly recommended, I was curious to see how it works with the procharger. How are you getting yours in? You doing it yourself, or having someone do it for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quik Posted May 25, 2006 Report Share Posted May 25, 2006 i had the GT2-5 before and it was nice but im glad i got rid of it. it was very tame compared to this new cam i have but will say power cam on smoothly where as this cam is in our face 222/222 .566/.566 112 is the GT2-5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithl3 Posted May 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2006 is that GT2-5 cam set up for boosted applications? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuelSlut Posted May 25, 2006 Report Share Posted May 25, 2006 gt2-3 aboot to slide into my truck (as for now, it sits in my room... ohhh sooo pretty!!!) way up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted May 25, 2006 Report Share Posted May 25, 2006 That spot where it looks like motor oil, or dark, is more than likely from heat. The cam bearing must have spun. It will cost a little more to get that spare block going for that reason alone. The majority of the cost would probably come from getting that bearing area ground out to fit in an oversized bearing. If it spun, or it is suspected of spinning, you wouldn't want to put a stock sized cam bearing back in there or the clearances would be too great and that problem of oil pressure would be present again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithl3 Posted May 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2006 BenKey, I actually just paid for the block to get new cam bearings and to get inserts put into two head bolt area's where two studs broke off (whole other story), for a really good price too, cost $150 for new bearings installed and two drilled out bolts and installed inserts. The Machinist didn't notice any unusual wear on the block and installed replacement cam bearings. I really don't know what happened to that one bearing, the one edge that was exposed from the block was rounded over, as it the cam bearing didn't seat and it was still banged against to install it. FuelSlut, So this cam is more popular than I think. Does anyone have it on this site that has some times?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted May 25, 2006 Report Share Posted May 25, 2006 Your judgement call. Personally, I wouldn't want to risk the entire motor on a $15 piece. My stock motor went from spun bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithl3 Posted May 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2006 I am going to contact the machinist and see if he speced out those inner diameters before he pushed in new bearings. Ok, so if I do go the cam replacement route in my truck you think the best bet is the pen magnet trick, and where should a buy a spring comprssion tool from. Any recommendations, I know some are harder than others I would want a tool that can access everything. I looked at thunder racing and their tools are like 125 or so. Is it worth just getting one of those? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drako Posted May 25, 2006 Report Share Posted May 25, 2006 ive been really thinking about the gt2-3 cam, especialyl since it keeps a similiar stock idle, and well i dont want mr.goodwrench voiding that ol'warrenty just yet. and eventually i want to go FI with a radix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurbochargedBerserker Posted May 25, 2006 Report Share Posted May 25, 2006 You know that we don't need the pen magnet trick, right? All the gen III motors have lifter retainers, you just need the engine to be ice cold (like not even started for 10-12 hours) and then pull the plugs and spin the crank with a wrench. The lifters will all lock up in the retainers... The 118.5 lsa is great for drivability and for boosted apps (no overlap), but for NA, overlap makes power, so my honest opinion on the GT2-3 is that is a marginally okay cam for an NA motor, and a great S/C cam (lousy turbo cam -- split is all wrong, unless you are camming to overcome significant lag and willing to give up top power to spool faster). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackySS13 Posted May 25, 2006 Report Share Posted May 25, 2006 No need to buy the tool. Berk is right. If you feel a lil iffy, go to Lowes and buy 1/8 dowel rod and ram that in there. But it'll be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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