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You will not believe this!


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6wks.......hmmmm.....plenty of time to order a new set of heads and have them on before she even gets back. :devil:

 

LOL! No wonder your 10,000+ posts almost cost you your marriage... with ideas like this!!! :crackup:

More true than you know. I used to have things sent to a friends house, then install when my wife left town.

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WAIT!!! If there are any threads left at all, you can use the two part epoxy "thread maker". I've used it in aluminum water pumps, aluminum heads, and aluminum intake manifolds with great results. I think the maker is Permatex and it comes in a kit kinda like the thread lockers out there, just with two tubes.

 

One part of the compound is a paste that you use a small screw driver to put into the hole and spread it around on the remaining threads. The other part of the kit is a liquid activating agent that you dab onto the threads of the bolt. You put the bolt with the activating agent on it into the hole (with the paste in the hole) finger tight, then leave it for about 30 minutes to set up if I remember right, then you can go back and tighten it to recommended spec. You have to let it sit over night to cure before you can use it...

 

Try it... if you don't have any luck with it, then go for one of the harder fixes.

 

40,000 dollar truck=half hacked mickey mouse repair. not in my book. 100% or nothing. its worth the time.

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I found the Permatex stripped thread repair stuff. It says on the little chart in the instructions that for a m8 bolt the maximum torque is 3.8 ft. lbs. Don't think that is going to be enough :D

 

I am going to give it a shot though.

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I found the Permatex stripped thread repair stuff.  It says on the little chart in the instructions that for a m8 bolt the maximum torque is 3.8 ft. lbs.  Don't think that is going to be enough  :D

 

I am going to give it a shot though.

 

this was my train of thought, didn't mean to be insulting, there is a correct way to fix the problem and a half way alternative that may work.

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I was putting my headers back on last night after my head install. Drivers side rear bolt just didn't want to go in easily. It was a pain to access from the top, so I found a semi-comfortable spot to get it from the bottom. After a full 10 minutes of working on that bolt from the bottom, I can guarantee you that removing the wheel well will not help. That bolt sits in a nice little corner of the firewall. I thought I'd strip it out with the amount of force I had to put on it, but never did. I'm sure I've got more than 18lbs on those bolts too, but I'll be darned if I'll put up with leaks. ;)

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Just a little update. I used the Permatex Stripped thread repair and it is still holding after about a week. Seemed to have done the trick.

 

I am pretty sure if I had to take that bolt out and put it back in it wouldn't last too long but it is working for now. Lets just keep our fingers crossed that I don;t have to mess with that bolt for awhile.

 

Thanks much for the tip SS_bnoon_SS :thumbs:

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glad to see you got it worked out.

Epoxy is some amazing stuff! I did an engine block one time that just broke a water jacket and the truck ran for at least one more year...maybe two, ran like crap...but I thing expoy is the furture :D

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