slimsoftball Posted February 13, 2006 Report Share Posted February 13, 2006 Ok let me start this off by saying I didn't over tighten them. 18lbs, like the instructions said. On my way home I heard what sounded like a leak and by the time I got home it was LOUD. I looked under the hood and immediately noticed the back bolt on my drivers side header had backed out about 1/4. No big deal, I get me wrench and go to tighten it back down, easy fix right? Well the bolt just spins in the hole and will not tighten. How the hell does this happen all by itself? I assume the only fix for this is to pull the head and fix the threads. Any suggestions. I was thinking maybe initially I would try a stud with a little longer bolt to get past the "bad" threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwalls54 Posted February 14, 2006 Report Share Posted February 14, 2006 Yeah i can beleive it. those header bolts suck big time. the last time i put the headers on i thought i stripped a few. what you could do is just get a little bit bigger bolt and a tap. that would be the easiest thing to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimsoftball Posted February 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2006 Yeah i can beleive it. those header bolts suck big time. the last time i put the headers on i thought i stripped a few. what you could do is just get a little bit bigger bolt and a tap. that would be the easiest thing to do. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I am all about easiest. I thought of that too. The only problem is it is the drivers side back bolt. I don't think there is any way I can get a tap in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuelSlut Posted February 14, 2006 Report Share Posted February 14, 2006 sure you can... take the header off... and the wheel well out... (you should gain enough access through there) red thread-lock! good luck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimsoftball Posted February 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2006 OK so the next question is what size is "a little bit bigger" It figures I would have this setback. I was getting some logging done today after secretly putting in a GT2-3 cam this weekend and this had to happen. By the way, turns out that the COMP cam (see sig) I was running was bleeding lots of boost. I was hitting 7 lbs with my 2.9 pulley before and I hit 9 today. Of course I saw this on my new Dakota Digital gauges mounted in the overhead with my SoCal Diesel mount. Once I get over being pissed off about stripping my head I will post pics of the gauges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1slow01z71 Posted February 14, 2006 Report Share Posted February 14, 2006 I honestly don think you can get to that bolt. It is too close the the firewall not the wheel well. I really dont see you getting it out unless you take the head off. Sucks cause it had to be that back bolt any others and it wouldnt be that big of a deal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PladdPezzPunk Posted February 14, 2006 Report Share Posted February 14, 2006 what sometimes happens is the steel manifold bolts take part of the aluminum thread with them when you take them out. tough fix for that rear bold. i'd try to get in there with a tap, possible to take the engine mount out and let the motor sit on the fram, you can sometimes get a little more access that way. i'm not sure about the ss but i've had issues with several other cars and that will sometimes work. if worst comes to worse, when you take the heads off, do yourself a favor and put a helicoil in every bolt hole. you won't have that problem again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimsoftball Posted February 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2006 I honestly don think you can get to that bolt. It is too close the the firewall not the wheel well. I really dont see you getting it out unless you take the head off. Sucks cause it had to be that back bolt any others and it wouldnt be that big of a deal <{POST_SNAPBACK}> No $hit, why couldn't it be the middle bolt on the passenger side I guess I will be calling the parts desk at the dealership and getting a set of head bolts and a gasket. Do most places like Autozone carry the helicoil kits? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwalls54 Posted February 14, 2006 Report Share Posted February 14, 2006 Yeah most auto parts stores carry them. Or if you have a Fastenal bolt place. they usually have every size you can think of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuelSlut Posted February 14, 2006 Report Share Posted February 14, 2006 good luck with this man... maybe time to throw some heads on there to compliment the cam & radix not too long ago i had to do a manifold on a suburban and i went through the wheel well... but now that i think aboot it, it was an 8.1L big block turd. once again, good luck man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted February 14, 2006 Report Share Posted February 14, 2006 Don't you have some heads to throw on anyway? I would just do the bigger bolt idea. Believe the stock bolts are 1.25X30mm. That is the size I ordered when I replaced mine a few weeks ago. I would almost try to get one size bigger and try to get it in there as is. I would have to sit and think about that one for a while. That is a hell of a lot of work for one bolt. Radix doesn't make it any easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_bnoon_SS Posted February 14, 2006 Report Share Posted February 14, 2006 WAIT!!! If there are any threads left at all, you can use the two part epoxy "thread maker". I've used it in aluminum water pumps, aluminum heads, and aluminum intake manifolds with great results. I think the maker is Permatex and it comes in a kit kinda like the thread lockers out there, just with two tubes. One part of the compound is a paste that you use a small screw driver to put into the hole and spread it around on the remaining threads. The other part of the kit is a liquid activating agent that you dab onto the threads of the bolt. You put the bolt with the activating agent on it into the hole (with the paste in the hole) finger tight, then leave it for about 30 minutes to set up if I remember right, then you can go back and tighten it to recommended spec. You have to let it sit over night to cure before you can use it... Try it... if you don't have any luck with it, then go for one of the harder fixes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwalls54 Posted February 14, 2006 Report Share Posted February 14, 2006 WAIT!!! If there are any threads left at all, you can use the two part epoxy "thread maker". I've used it in aluminum water pumps, aluminum heads, and aluminum intake manifolds with great results. I think the maker is Permatex and it comes in a kit kinda like the thread lockers out there, just with two tubes. One part of the compound is a paste that you use a small screw driver to put into the hole and spread it around on the remaining threads. The other part of the kit is a liquid activating agent that you dab onto the threads of the bolt. You put the bolt with the activating agent on it into the hole (with the paste in the hole) finger tight, then leave it for about 30 minutes to set up if I remember right, then you can go back and tighten it to recommended spec. You have to let it sit over night to cure before you can use it... Try it... if you don't have any luck with it, then go for one of the harder fixes. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> that might be an option, just make sure of the heat rating Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_bnoon_SS Posted February 14, 2006 Report Share Posted February 14, 2006 WAIT!!! If there are any threads left at all, you can use the two part epoxy "thread maker". I've used it in aluminum water pumps, aluminum heads, and aluminum intake manifolds with great results. I think the maker is Permatex and it comes in a kit kinda like the thread lockers out there, just with two tubes. One part of the compound is a paste that you use a small screw driver to put into the hole and spread it around on the remaining threads. The other part of the kit is a liquid activating agent that you dab onto the threads of the bolt. You put the bolt with the activating agent on it into the hole (with the paste in the hole) finger tight, then leave it for about 30 minutes to set up if I remember right, then you can go back and tighten it to recommended spec. You have to let it sit over night to cure before you can use it... Try it... if you don't have any luck with it, then go for one of the harder fixes. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> that might be an option, just make sure of the heat rating <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Found it online, it's called Permatex Form-a-thread Stripped Thread Repair. Good from -65 to 300F, which should be fine for that back header bolt. Several hits on Google for it, but here's one here that gives a pretty good description of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimsoftball Posted February 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2006 I will defianately check out that Permatex Form-a-thread Stripped Thread Repair. I will check out the autoparts stores this afternoon. That is a great find, thanks. That could turn out to be a lifesaver. There is still quite a bit of thread left as far as I can tell but not quite enough to get it to torque down tight. Ben: I changed my mind and sold those heads a long time ago. I had already pretty much decided to try the larger bolt first. Worst case scenario is that is doesn't work and then I have to pull the head and stick a helicoil in there. I agree that is alot of work for one damn bolt. I do have time on my side at leasst. My wife is out of town for 6 weeks so I have her vehicle to drive until I get it figured out. Thanks for the suggestions guys, I will let you all know how it works out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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