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TurbochargedBerserker

How To Change Your Brake Pads

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This is an easy task, one that takes 20 minutes to an hour per axle. You can accomplish this task with a 12mm socket or wrench, a torque wrench capable of 140 ft. lbs., a jack, jack stands, and lug wrench.

 

1. Jack the vehicle up high enough that the tires can be removed for the axle you are working on and secure with jack stands

2. Remove the wheels and get them out of the way

3. Using the 12mm socket wrench, remove the two caliper bolts:

 

Top, looking down:

calip_bolt_u.jpg

 

Bottom: looking up:

calip_bolt_b.jpg

 

They are a bit funny -- they never feel completely loose because of a rubber grommit. You may have to wiggle the bolt, or pry on it with your thumb to get the bolt out

 

4. Pry the caliper out of its receiver:

 

calip_grab_u.jpg

 

calip_grab_b.jpg

 

calip_peel.jpg

 

You may have to pull from both the top then the bottom and wiggle it loose. It will be tight and may work better from the top OR the bottom.

 

5. Lay the caliper on the spring (or just out of the way)

6. Grab the front pad by the outside tab and work it out of the receiver:

 

pad_remov.jpg

 

7. Paying attention to the tab on the pads:

 

pad_tab.jpg

 

insert the new pads (tab towards the ground) by putting the tab side in first and working the pad into the upper receiver:

 

fr_pad_inst.jpg

 

repeat for the back side pad:

 

pads_in.jpg

Edited by TurbochargedBerserker

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(had to break this into two chunks -- Too many pictures :crackup: )

 

8. Looking at the caliper, it is likey that the pistons are extended to the working height for the old pad (and therefore won't fit over the new pads):

 

calip_out.jpg

 

This is to be expected, so don't panic. What we need is the calipers opened up so they can slide over the new pads. I ussually just open them all the way and then close them up again by pressing the brake pedal. To do this, use a C-clap or large mouth vice grips. Put an old pad across the pistons and squeeze:

 

calip_pinch.jpg

 

With vice grips (as in the picture), you may need to go to an intermediate level, and then the final level. Be careful of the brake line on the other side of the caliper!

 

9. With the caliper opened up:

 

calip_in.jpg

 

slide the caliper over the pads and insert the two bolts:

 

calip_reinst.jpg

 

10. Tighten the two 12mm bolts (they never get fully tight, and the caliper can move a little back and forth -- this will be fixed in the next step).

 

11. Turn the key to "on" and step on the brake a few times until you feel the pedal tighten up

12. Check the calipers and you will see they are now tight over the pads

13. Reinstall your wheels with the torque wrench (NOT an air wrench) to 140 ft. lbs.

14. Lower the vehicle and repeat for the other axle, or burnish the brake pads according to manufacturers instructions

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Good job :thumbs: I can see they are Hawk pads? Ever get your line situation cleared up?

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...I just installed the same pads this weekend with new rotors as well. Took the whole assembly off not just the calipers on the fronts. :sigh: While I was in there I sanded down the old paint on the calipers and gave them a fresh coat.

 

 

Nice how to!! :thumbs:

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just wondering if there is going to be a how to for the lines :) and then the bleeding as well....erik...ben...mr p....chubby...

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After changing the pads, push the brakepedal a few time's till it feels good before driving again. :thumbs:

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just wondering if there is going to be a how to for the lines :)  and then the bleeding as well....erik...ben...mr p....chubby...

Replacing the lines is very straightforward, just make sure you use a catchpan, keep everything clean, and do not crossthread anything!

 

The only issue I had to actually put brainpower to was restraining the front lines, what you have to do is install the line, then turn the front wheel to the outside lock and *then* secure the hose to the spindle and control arm. If you don't make sure that there is enough brake line slack then the first time you turn the wheel completely to the outside lock you might rip the brake line free. :eek:

 

Bleeding - I have always had great luck with gravity/siphon bleeding in past vehicles, but the SS refused to do it last weekend :( so I had to get a helper and spend an hour doing it the old fashioned way, and I've still got a squeak of air in the system somewhere. :mad: OTOH now that I think about it - when I undid the brake lines initially the front resevoir completely emptied so maybe I'll give it a try again. I'm also considering rigging-up a cap for the resevoir that I can pressurize :devil: If I do that I'll post pics, a redneck pressure-bleeding cap.

 

Mr. P. :)

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just wondering if there is going to be a how to for the lines :)  and then the bleeding as well....erik...ben...mr p....chubby...

I'm also considering rigging-up a cap for the resevoir that I can pressurize :devil: If I do that I'll post pics, a redneck pressure-bleeding cap.

 

Mr. P. :)

Make sure you make the hose long enough to fit into the cab so you can blow into it while stepping n the pedal!!

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just wondering if there is going to be a how to for the lines :)  and then the bleeding as well....erik...ben...mr p....chubby...

Dude....forget that....I don't want you touching your brakes. :P

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just wondering if there is going to be a how to for the lines :)  and then the bleeding as well....erik...ben...mr p....chubby...

Dude....forget that....I don't want you touching your brakes. :P

:lol: see some are more of an **** than others :D

 

well i was just going to do pads and rotors but i gave a slight idea about the lines as i would be there anyway. I want a formal how to :-) I figure i know where the 4 brake lines are but, where does the 5th one go :confused:

 

come on mr P, you're taking it off again why not mix some pics in :thumbs:

 

love ya guys :cheers:

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just wondering if there is going to be a how to for the lines :)  and then the bleeding as well....erik...ben...mr p....chubby...

about time you chimed in...

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