Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
SS_bnoon_SS

HOW-TO: 2/2 simple drop

Recommended Posts

After dropping my ride with the ~2/2 drop via torsion bars front and shackles in the rear, several people asked me for a how-to for it. Since I didn't take any pics during the install, you all were kinda out of luck. That's where Kyle's03SilveradoSS comes in. We lowered his truck at our first central Iowa get together this past weekend and we took pics along the way so that other members could follow if the wish.

 

Note: I know that it is a better idea to lower the front with dropped spindles to retain suspension geometry, but there's no beating the lower cost of using the parts you already have on the truck to lower the front until the better way can be afforded if you so wish.

 

Now, follow along as we drop Kyle's truck.

 

Before measurement front:

 

kyle1.JPG

 

Before rear:

 

kyle2.JPG

 

My old stock shackles compared to Kyle's new ones:

 

kyle3.JPG

 

First step is to lower the driver's side by loosening the torsion bar. Count the turns taken out and match them to the other side as a starting point. Once you loosen the bolt enough to come off of the bolt threads, the bolts can get really loose, so tighten them back in one half turn minimum to keep spring pressure on the key bolts.

 

Measure each side after turning down the torsion key bolts the same number of turns. The passenger's side bolt may take a couple of more turns to be even with the driver's side depending on how much gas you have in the tank, or even if you're the only person in the truck sitting on the driver's side. Measure from the ground to the top of the wheel well opening, just as we pictured above and keep measuring and loosen/tighten the torsion bolts as needed to make corrections.

 

Here's me, loosening the driver's side bolt:

 

kyle4.JPG

 

Time to stop for a refreshment. Ahhhhhhhhhhh:

 

kyle5.JPG

 

O.K., once you drop the torsion bars, you're going to want to trim the bumpstops a bit to keep from riding fully on them all the time. Jack up the driver's side and support the frame with a proper stand, with the front wheels full right lock. This is what you should see close up:

 

kyle7.JPG

 

Same part of the procedure, panned back to give you a full view:

 

kyle8.JPG

 

We used a sawsall to trim the bumpstop, but any sharp blade will do the trick:

 

kyle10.JPG

 

One nub removed:

 

kyle9.JPG

 

Do the same on the other side with the wheels full left lock. Set the truck back on the ground a remeasure the ride height to make sure it's still even side to side. Once it's back on the ground, it's time to move to the rear of the truck...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Starting in the rear with removing the trailer hitch 13/16 six pointed socket and 13/16 end wrench will be used. Before you undo the bolts, undo the wiring socket leads so that you don’t have to wrestle with the hitch wiring later. Once all of the hitch bolts are out, you can set the hitch aside. This is me, removing the hitch bolts:

 

kyle11.JPG

 

View of some of the hitch bolts:

 

kyle12.JPG

 

More hitch bolts:

 

kyle13.JPG

 

TIP: According to Dirt.boy below, there is an easier way to handle the hitch if you're working by yourself and don't have someone to give you a hand with holding the hitch in place to put it back on. I believe with two people my method will be easier to get everything out of the way, but by yourself you would have some trouble holding the hitch back up in place to get the bolts started. Here's Dirt.boy's tip:

 

"I thought this made it a bit easier.....

 

Since I was doing this alone I did not want to wrestle with the hitch assembly so I left it in place, I just lowered the side I was working on enough to get room to work.

 

First I removed all of the horizontal bolts. Then I removed the vertical bolts from the side I was working on. Then I loosened the vertical bolts on the opposite side just enough to lower the hitch out of the way. When the first side was done I replaced the hitch bolts on that side and repeated the process for the other side.

 

Greg"

 

Time for another refreshment:

 

kyle6.JPG

 

Actually, we did much more :cheers: than we show here in the pics... about an hour and a half of actual work took use about 3 hours to complete. Taking pics and refreshing frosty barley pops take a long time, LOL! :jester:

 

Moving on to the shackles, you will see only two bolts each, again with 13/16” socket and end wrench, remove the nutes off of each bolt. With a jack under the rear end pumpkin, you will need to raise or lower the rear end to take tension off of these lower shackle bolts. With the tension properly removed, these lower shackle bolts will come out easily. Do not knock these bolts out with a hammer without first finding this tension release point or you could be risking serious finger injury!!!

 

Bottom bolt removed:

 

kyle14.JPG

 

Once the bottom bolt is removed, you can raise the jack under the rear end to remove the top bolt (once you raise it enough it will clear the frame and come out between the frame and bed floor.) Take notice which direction the shackle faces and install the new ones the same way. It’s all nuts and bolts to reassemble at this point, so we’re going to skip to the after pics.

 

NOTE: The front will settle a bit after a test drive. Take the truck for a spin around the block and remeasure. The pics show only the initial drop and no “settled” pics. As you will notice, we got just over an inch rear and about 1.5 inches front before everything settled. Perhaps Kyle can provide settled pics.

 

After rear:

 

kyle15.JPG

 

After front:

 

kyle16.JPG

 

Another satisfied customer:

 

kyle17.JPG

 

Note: It's recommended that you get an alignment after any lowering job!

Edited by SS_bnoon_SS

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Good write up!  :thumbs:

 

 

Thanks! Considering I had to do it TWICE!!! The img limit is set at ten and I didn't think to check the limit or preview my post... when I submitted it the first time, I got a warning that said I had to many pics in my post. :nono: I clicked the "back" button and my entire post was lost!!! :banghead::cry:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oops, just realized I posted this is suspension and it should have been in the HOW-TO section. Sorry Mr. moderator! :banghead:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

good write up, now whos the sissy drinking mikes hard strawberry lemonade, they need a kick in the butt :crackup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
good write up, now whos the sissy drinking mikes hard strawberry lemonade, they need a kick in the butt :crackup:

 

 

LOL! That's Kyle's girlie drink. BTW, it's cranberry, not strawberry, get it right. :rollin: I had a couple of Red Bull/vodka's before he got there and thought I'd better tone it back and stick to beer. I got the shakes reaaaaaaaaal bad in the afternoon and had to eat a snack to calm back down. Sometimes that stuff just doesn't sit right with me for some reason... I can see why some people call it "liquid cocaine"!!!

 

Bevis voice ---> "bbbzzzzzzzz beeaaaarrrrrrrrraaaaaablablablalbaballbaaaaaapaaaaaaaaaaa!!!"

Edited by SS_bnoon_SS

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One quick question...

 

When removing the trailer hitch:

There are 2 bolts that go upwards just under the "step" in the rear bumper, on either side of the receiver tube.

Do you have to remove the plastic bumper cover on the step area to access the back sides of these 2 bolts or are they threaded into something solid?

 

I am ready to do mine, just figured since you wrestled the hitch out you would recall if those 2 bolts gave you problems.

 

Thanks for taking your time to write it up. :thumbs:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those 2 bolts thread into the bottom of the bumper and you do not have to remove the plastic... :D

Edited by jethro_3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
One quick question...

 

When removing the trailer hitch:

There are 2 bolts that go upwards just under the "step" in the rear bumper, on either side of the receiver tube.

Do you have to remove the plastic bumper cover on the step area to access the back sides of these 2 bolts or are they threaded into something solid?

 

I am ready to do mine, just figured since you wrestled the hitch out you would recall if those 2 bolts gave you problems.

 

Thanks for taking your time to write it up. :thumbs:

No the steel support they are bolted into is threaded or has captured nuts I never really looked closely at it but the bolts will come right out!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Oops, just realized I posted this is suspension and it should have been in the HOW-TO section. Sorry Mr. moderator!  :banghead:

No problem i'll even be nice and move it for ya SSer :jester:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Someday, you should install a set of front hangers and give a tutorial on it too. I've been wondering what kind of a job that would be. Nice job on the pics. :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×