aweSSome Posted April 28, 2006 Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 2005 model Drain plug on bottom Fill plug on rear cover Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jester08 Posted May 4, 2006 Report Share Posted May 4, 2006 Hey buddy! You've been of great help. Inner auto is also a good site if you want handy auto information and tips. I always refer to that site for easy and fast answers. Hope it can also help you out guyz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06VHO Posted May 12, 2006 Report Share Posted May 12, 2006 did you know that the "secret ingrediant" in that gov-lock stuff is whale sperm.... makes you wonder how they found that out? even worse, why they would just toss it in a rear axle? EVEN MORE WORSE how did they acquire it!?!?! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Very good tech, P. I like your gasket saving technique. A little info on the additive, the formula was changed sometime in the mid to late 90s. Both Ford and GM used the same stuff (nasty smelling whale oil/sperm, whatever ). That may be the reason for the change, to work better with the newer rears. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I may be wrong here, but I thought it was "Sperm Whale" oil. Which they no longer use, because the "Sperm Whale" is now protected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoolBlueSS Posted May 12, 2006 Report Share Posted May 12, 2006 did you know that the "secret ingrediant" in that gov-lock stuff is whale sperm.... makes you wonder how they found that out? even worse, why they would just toss it in a rear axle? EVEN MORE WORSE how did they acquire it!?!?! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Very good tech, P. I like your gasket saving technique. A little info on the additive, the formula was changed sometime in the mid to late 90s. Both Ford and GM used the same stuff (nasty smelling whale oil/sperm, whatever ). That may be the reason for the change, to work better with the newer rears. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I may be wrong here, but I thought it was "Sperm Whale" oil. Which they no longer use, because the "Sperm Whale" is now protected. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> It probably was. All I know is it was just some nasty smelling sh1t. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06VHO Posted May 12, 2006 Report Share Posted May 12, 2006 The newer formula not only smells better, but it tastes better too. (so I've been told). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoolBlueSS Posted May 13, 2006 Report Share Posted May 13, 2006 The newer formula not only smells better, but it tastes better too. (so I've been told). <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I was going to say, and you know this how? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06VHO Posted May 17, 2006 Report Share Posted May 17, 2006 I have over 5,000 miles on my 06 VHO and I am ready to change my gear oil. I do a lot of heavy towing, including very steep grades (So Cal to Vegas and back). I was told when you do heavy towing you should switch to Convetional Gear Lube. Otherwise you risk premature gear and/or bearing failure. Any recommendations? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06VHO Posted May 18, 2006 Report Share Posted May 18, 2006 No recommendations yet? I will probably be changing my gear oil this weekend. Here is something else I found on Mobil1.com. They also seem to recommend a Conventional Gear Lube ("Mobilube HD Plus 80W-90") where extreme pressures and shock loading are expected. Should I not use conventional oil with the G80 Locking Differential? Anyone else have any thoughts before I change my Gear Oil, Anyone????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted May 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2006 No recommendations yet? I will probably be changing my gear oil this weekend. Here is something else I found on Mobil1.com. They also seem to recommend a Conventional Gear Lube ("Mobilube HD Plus 80W-90") where extreme pressures and shock loading are expected. Should I not use conventional oil with the G80 Locking Differential? Anyone else have any thoughts before I change my Gear Oil, Anyone????? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Sorry that I did not see your post earlier; I am pretty sure that the site's "vew new posts" search is flawed and I am missing a bunch of recent postings, so please don't think I'm ignoring you! I have not researched this at all so this is my guess - what I would do is stick with the synthetic; the reason that I say so is because the entire rear axle is optimized for it and you are still towing well inside design spec. I have used 75W-90 full synthetic in my past tow rigs hauling demolition derby cars up and down the CA Sierras and had no issues, I just changed fluids at 35K intervals, not a biggie to me. If you were towing so much weight or pulling such a steep grade that you were WOT most of the way there then I could see switching fluids because you would be putting 300+ rwhp through the differential most of the way there, but this will not be the case even hauling a car up I-15 and back; OTOH towing 10K-lbs or working the two-lane moutain roads of the Colorado/Wyoming Rockies would be a different story. Mr. P. edit - towing across the Mojave to LV I'd be much more worried about the transmission; really watch your tranny temps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06VHO Posted May 20, 2006 Report Share Posted May 20, 2006 Thanks Mr. P. , I will definitely be upgrading my trans cooler. My truck did not come with a Transmission Temp Gauge, but it has one now. Last time I towed to Las Vegas, just before I got to the Baker Grade, my trans temp was at 200F, then after climbing up the Baker Grade for 20-miles (25-minutes) to the Halloran Summit (4000'+), my trans temp was up to 230F and the outside air temp was only 42F at 10pm. This is climbing the grade in second gear at near full throttle at 55mph. My enclosed (box/parachute) trailer weight with my car, tools, gas, water, etc. = 7500lbs. I have done the same hall with my car on an open trailer (only 4500lbs with no box/parachute) and could pull the grade in 3rd gear. Unfortunately, an open trailer just doesn't cut it when needing to take enough stuff for a 3-day race. I don't want to find out how high my trans temp could get to this summer. So next week, I will be installing a bigger trans cooler with a built in fan & thermostat. I will also service the transmission and re-fill it with Dexron-VI, as per my Owner's Manual and zippy. For those that are not familiar with Baker, California Click Here and then click on the pics. As for my differential, I will run synthetic as you recommended. I called Lucas Oil and because I told them that my truck has about 5,000 miles on it and nearly all of the paint has flaked off of my differential cover. They recommended a 50/50 mix of their 75/140 Synthetic Gear oil and their Synthetic Oil Stabilizer. Also, my differential is seeing 530+ rwtq going up the Baker grade almost floored in 2nd gear (325+ rwtq x 1.63 ratio for 2nd gear= 530+ rwtq), which explains why all of the paint is flaking off of the diff cover. There is also a finned aluminum diff cover that holds additional oil going on at the same time. Anyhow, I know I did not share all of this information with you before. I am just sharing what I have come up with. Thanks again, 06VHO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted May 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2006 Thanks Mr. P. ,I will definitely be upgrading my trans cooler. ... I am just sharing what I have come up with. Thanks again, 06VHO Yeah dude that's HOT for a tranny, like cut-your-tranny-life-in-half kind of heat, get the largest tranny cooler you can find, I shoot for temps in the 160-180 range. Rear end - yeah when the paint is flaking off that's intense. You are right, you have some really serious towing - 20-mins WOT is a monster pull. I agree with what you are thinking, a finned cover, more fluid capacity is a must in your application. I would also buy some temperature strips, they are a little pricey @ $3 apiece but it will tell you exactly what the rear-end temp is, Here's a link to some. Using a temperature label you can check later and see the hottest that the surface got Mr. P. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06VHO Posted May 22, 2006 Report Share Posted May 22, 2006 Yeah dude that's HOT for a tranny, like cut-your-tranny-life-in-half kind of heat, get the largest tranny cooler you can find, I shoot for temps in the 160-180 range. Rear end - yeah when the paint is flaking off that's intense. You are right, you have some really serious towing - 20-mins WOT is a monster pull. I agree with what you are thinking, a finned cover, more fluid capacity is a must in your application. I would also buy some temperature strips, they are a little pricey @ $3 apiece but it will tell you exactly what the rear-end temp is, Here's a link to some. Using a temperature label you can check later and see the hottest that the surface got Mr. P. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Thanks for that link, I think I might get some of those. FWIW, during towing, my 2006 VHO outperforms my friends 2005 3/4-Ton 6.0 Silverado HD in every way, mpg, power, ride, etc. and his trailer setup and weight is almost identical to mine. His trans temps are about the same as mine. I would like to temp-strip both of our diffs before are next Vegas haul. EDIT: I have not checked the temperature yet. Does it just look like a bad paint job? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted May 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2006 HOLY COW! Yeah I'd say that rear-end does a whole lotta work. No, that paint is basically a high-heat enamel, the fact that you've burned off a lot of it makes me guess your rear axle has seen temps well over 325-degrees. My guess is that you have a case of the heat getting away from you - the work being put into the axle causes the lube to get hot, which causes the lube to thin out, which causes increased friction (if not outright metal-to-metal contact), which causes the lube to get even hotter, ad infinitem; rear-ends with this kind of problem have been known to get over 400-degrees . Most oils are intended to be used, and perform best, at 185-215 degrees; outside that they really struggle and generally do bad things above 230-degrees; 260+ and oils fail outright. I know the temp strips are $30 but I think in your case that knowledge will be essential to getting any kind of life out of your rear axle. Mr. P. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperDave Posted May 23, 2006 Report Share Posted May 23, 2006 Hey Guys.. Why not spend 25.00 more than the strips and just buy a non contact infared digital thermometer? Run down the road and get it hot, jump out lay under the truck slightly aim and shoot the light at the cover from two feet away and instant temp reading! Just a thought.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06VHO Posted May 24, 2006 Report Share Posted May 24, 2006 Hey Guys.. Why not spend 25.00 more than the strips and just buy a non contact infared digital thermometer? Run down the road and get it hot, jump out lay under the truck slightly aim and shoot the light at the cover from two feet away and instant temp reading! Just a thought.... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I already have a temp gun. The temp strips stay at the hottest temp they get to, which will likely be on the steepest grade during my Socal to Vegas haul with my trailer. I don't really want to pull over at that point in 100F+ heat and lay under the truck to shoot temps. I guess it is a convenience thing in my case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.