haynss Posted August 8, 2005 Report Share Posted August 8, 2005 thats pretty sweet if you can get 17 + highway i think. I know when i took mine on a trip i was getting about 11-12. Then again im not completely tuned yet so it might get a little better, but i doubt it. And then with the turbo i thought it would forsure be better oh well still fun to drive. Zippy, how you like the tq?? nice huh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTex Posted August 8, 2005 Report Share Posted August 8, 2005 cool, good to know. I ordered those pistons with -5cc valve reliefs, so you should be able to run a fairly large cam with having P2V clearance issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2bseen Posted August 9, 2005 Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 Congrats on the new motor. I am getting 13.1 on my 408, that is with some hwy and some city driving. I wish I could find a awd dyno that my truck would fix on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscareltemblo Posted August 9, 2005 Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 w2w has allwheel dyno if anyone is coming to the woodward cruise give him a call he mite set something up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackySS13 Posted August 9, 2005 Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 How much would it cost to build a 408? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted August 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 w2w has allwheel dyno if anyone is coming to the woodward cruise give him a call he mite set something up. that's where the truck will be dyno'd. during the open house for woodward they will be running their own cars on the dyno to display the dyno. the open dyno day is very difficult for them to work out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted August 9, 2005 Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 How much would it cost to build a 408? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Machine cost for your block to be bored .030" - $250 Or, new block - $650 Rotating assy - $1999-$3600, depending on which one (Eagle, Callies, ....) Engine removal - $250-$500 Build cost - $250-$500 42lb injectors - $400 Reinstall motor - $250-$500 Tune - $250 Subtract some of the things you could do yourself. This doesn't include any head work, which depending on which way you go can be from $200-$300 for a p&p job, or up to $2000 for new heads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSLink Posted August 9, 2005 Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 Thanks, BenKey. Is any other special preparation required to bore to .060" over to get to 427 CI? Sonic testing? Can the 6.0 liter block accommodate that without resleaving or other measures? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted August 9, 2005 Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 I don't think the standard genIII block will take that much boring. I would not be the guy to ask that though. Sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted August 9, 2005 Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 Thanks, BenKey. Is any other special preparation required to bore to .060" over to get to 427 CI? Sonic testing? Can the 6.0 liter block accommodate that without resleaving or other measures? Your not going to get 427 out of a OEM LS2/LQ9 sleeve; something more like 4.125 bore and 4.0 stroke. And if you're going to go to the effort of having a block resleeved I say go for broke (same cost) and build 4.155 x 4.00 = 434. I think the max overbore on a LQ9 block is +.040, I have not checked because I accepted up-front I would need a re-sleeved block. Sonic testing - is much more affordable than in the past because a machinist can now buy a testing tool for < $1000; IMO you might check a cast iron block if the expected cylinder pressure levels are extreme (high boost and/or NOS) and/or you are using a lot of stroke (say greater than 4-inch). I personally would not bother sonic testing iron sleeves in an aluminum block because sleeve inserts are centrifugally cast (guaranteeing near perfect material distribution, no core shift) plus sleeves are initially inspected prior to installation in the cylinder case. Mr. P. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBSS Posted August 9, 2005 Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 How much would it cost to build a 408? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Machine cost for your block to be bored .030" - $250 Or, new block - $650 Rotating assy - $1999-$3600, depending on which one (Eagle, Callies, ....) Engine removal - $250-$500 Build cost - $250-$500 42lb injectors - $400 Reinstall motor - $250-$500 Tune - $250 Subtract some of the things you could do yourself. This doesn't include any head work, which depending on which way you go can be from $200-$300 for a p&p job, or up to $2000 for new heads. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Curious if you could do a simple cost rundown like this for me on a 402, using a new LQ4 block with no boring. I'm considering this and bolting the Radix on top of it. I think the biggest expense (other than the rotating assy) would be the heads, since I don't have any 6.0 heads to start with. I'll likely be going with a smallish cam (the equivalent of a 212/218 in a 364ci) since I'll want to pass CA smog. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted August 9, 2005 Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 Curious if you could do a simple cost rundown like this for me on a 402, using a new LQ4 block with no boring. I'm considering this and bolting the Radix on top of it. I think the biggest expense (other than the rotating assy) would be the heads, since I don't have any 6.0 heads to start with. I'll likely be going with a smallish cam (the equivalent of a 212/218 in a 364ci) since I'll want to pass CA smog. The only cost you would save is the price of cylinder boring; you'll still need new pistons and rings, so a hone is still required. So it's a judgement call as to whether the additional 6-cubes, tick of compression, and better bore/stroke ratio are worth the couple hundred dollars - for me no argument, I'd hog it out, especially if you staying n/a BUT with forced induction bore/stroke ratio is not that important because cylinder filling is assured with bolt-on boost. 408 passing smog - the 408 is VERY tolerant, builds a lot of vacuum down low so is a lot more forgiving of over camming or over porting than shorter stroke motors. This is IMO the biggest advantage of a stroker, that is it can really use a head with *large* ports; so the hot ticket is to increase port size just enough to get the power out of it you want and pair it up with a relatively small cam. 40+ cubes and +.35" stroke will really tame a moderate cam; it'll also eat-up whatever air the Radix can throw at it, I would almost guarantee you could take advantage of a smaller blower pulley. I thought the LQ4 and LQ9 heads were the same piece? If so I would invest $500-600 in pocket porting the original heads, and do everything you can to improve low-lift flow; the thing should tear off the starting line. Mr. P. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted August 9, 2005 Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 Curious if you could do a simple cost rundown like this for me on a 402, using a new LQ4 block with no boring. I'm considering this and bolting the Radix on top of it. I think the biggest expense (other than the rotating assy) would be the heads, since I don't have any 6.0 heads to start with. I'll likely be going with a smallish cam (the equivalent of a 212/218 in a 364ci) since I'll want to pass CA smog. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Tbyrne has the SLP 402 low CR, 9:1, short block for about $3800. I would start there and then just shop around to see if I could do any better for a short block setup. Tom's prices are pretty hard to beat though. Not sure what you meant by - no boring. Buying a shortblock assy wouldn't require any. Even buying a brand new 6.0L block and separate rot. assy. would require boring. The only thing I didn't like about that pkg was the camshaft appears to be locked in, but you may be able to pick your specs. Not sure. It may be close to what you want. It's also an aluminum block which some people don't like, I went with an iron block, but it saves you a little in the weight dept. One thing I didn't include in the above post was the cost of a camshaft, which runs $415 w/shipping, if you go with a FMS cam like I did. If you get a short block setup, all you have to do is pull the motor, trade out the oil pan and various covers, put the heads and intake on and your ready to rock. Pulling the motor is exceptionally easy and a good cherry picker only runs about $150 nowadays. I would do the pulling and re-installing myself. I had never done either before this truck. I ran into some minor problems, but nothing major. Heads will be your major expense, but since you are trying to stay FI, there is a belief out there that you don't have to go crazy with heads if you're already going to be forcing the air in. Finding a stock set of 6.0L should run you about $350-$500. I have seen them for $250. A stgII setup, or even a good p&p job may be enough. Not changing the valve sizes may save you a little in the smog/mpg area also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBSS Posted August 9, 2005 Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 Curious if you could do a simple cost rundown like this for me on a 402, using a new LQ4 block with no boring. I'm considering this and bolting the Radix on top of it. I think the biggest expense (other than the rotating assy) would be the heads, since I don't have any 6.0 heads to start with. I'll likely be going with a smallish cam (the equivalent of a 212/218 in a 364ci) since I'll want to pass CA smog. The only cost you would save is the price of cylinder boring; you'll still need new pistons and rings, so a hone is still required. So it's a judgement call as to whether the additional 6-cubes, tick of compression, and better bore/stroke ratio are worth the couple hundred dollars - for me no argument, I'd hog it out, especially if you staying n/a BUT with forced induction bore/stroke ratio is not that important because cylinder filling is assured with bolt-on boost. 408 passing smog - the 408 is VERY tolerant, builds a lot of vacuum down low so is a lot more forgiving of over camming or over porting than shorter stroke motors. This is IMO the biggest advantage of a stroker, that is it can really use a head with *large* ports; so the hot ticket is to increase port size just enough to get the power out of it you want and pair it up with a relatively small cam. 40+ cubes and +.35" stroke will really tame a moderate cam; it'll also eat-up whatever air the Radix can throw at it, I would almost guarantee you could take advantage of a smaller blower pulley. I thought the LQ4 and LQ9 heads were the same piece? If so I would invest $500-600 in pocket porting the original heads, and do everything you can to improve low-lift flow; the thing should tear off the starting line. Mr. P. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I've got an Avalanche with an LM7 (5.3L/325ci) motor, so I'll need new heads as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted August 9, 2005 Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 I've got an Avalanche with an LM7 (5.3L/325ci) motor, so I'll need new heads as well. Yeah that would be a great upgrade, your Av probably has better gearing, too. Put a stump puller in that truck, shift just short of 6-grand; fun for the whole family! Does the 5.3 use the 6.0l intake? Mr. P. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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