haynss Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 Ben, to help you with your decision. The guys at the shop pulled my front driveshaft and made a couple passes on the dyno, about 12 or so easily. I asked them knowing that this thread was being brought up and the fact that people had done it before with some having issues. They think it shouldn't, I personally dont care as long as they know that if it breaks they replace it. As of right now as well I still dont have the driveshaft back in and truck is running ok. I'll keep you updated should anything else go to pooh. I am still not completly tuned but should be soon. makani Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscareltemblo Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 hey DVK! internet auto guide and some other website states it (SSR) as a rear wheel drive, sorry my mistake!!!!! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> You might be thinking of traction control??? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truckin05 Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 Glad to see that I am not the only one that has tried it! My is running good also and will post any problem/problems that occur. Ben, to help you with your decision. The guys at the shop pulled my front driveshaft and made a couple passes on the dyno, about 12 or so easily. I asked them knowing that this thread was being brought up and the fact that people had done it before with some having issues. They think it shouldn't, I personally dont care as long as they know that if it breaks they replace it. As of right now as well I still dont have the driveshaft back in and truck is running ok. I'll keep you updated should anything else go to pooh. I am still not completly tuned but should be soon. makani <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 Again, what is it that is gained from removing the driveshaft? I understand for dyno runs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperDave Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 The orginal reason was to be able to do a burnout I believe....but they sound like they are leaving them out for some crazy reason. I understood that it would balloon the viscous coupler or something catastrophic like that... to run with the front shaft removed. The owners manual mentions it somewhere I believe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haynss Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 Again, what is it that is gained from removing the driveshaft? I understand for dyno runs. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> nothing, my reason is because im going to back to shop to get it done again. By the way would anyone know the what the specs are for torquing down the 4 bolts of the front drive shaft? If I were completly done there is noway id be on 2 wheels right now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscareltemblo Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 Ok I have a question which shaft do you guys remove the two shafts that come out of the front axle or the one that comes out of the transfer case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperDave Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 The front driveshaft from the transfer case to the front differential. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truckin05 Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 My reason was to help my gas mileage and it would allow my tires to last longer. The gas mileage however has not improved much.... Like 1 to 2 mpg. The orginal reason was to be able to do a burnout I believe....but they sound like they are leaving them out for some crazy reason. I understood that it would balloon the viscous coupler or something catastrophic like that... to run with the front shaft removed. The owners manual mentions it somewhere I believe. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PewterC3 Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 actually....I think you get better tire wear with the full time AWD, especially in the front as compared to a 2WD. The AWD does not understeer as bad through the corner which saves the wear on the edges of the front tires....and you are distributing the torque better with AWD...which saves the rears. Most C3/SD guys get anywhere from 40-70k miles out of their OEM tires. I upgraded at 45k and still had lots of meat left on my stock Mich's. Of course they are 17's, and not made of the softer compound found in 20's. as far as mpg I really am surprised that you would save much at all since your still carrying the same weight and your power is still going though the t-case. but hey...if it's working for you then . I would just fear that when you do finally hook up the front shaft....you'll find things aren't as they should be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan06SS Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 I was thinking the same thing... tire wear could go either way... but mpg is gonna be a wash IMO. You still have the weight, but now the powers just being fed to the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 My reason was to help my gas mileage and it would allow my tires to last longer. The gas mileage however has not improved much.... Like 1 to 2 mpg. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> That was my point. The appreciable gain, if any, is not worth the extra 1-2mpg. If I'm only getting 2 extra mpg, which adds up to 50 miles per tank, I'm saving a little less than $10 a tank. Not worth it to be f***ing with a $1000 part, not counting install - but maybe that's not an issue if you're still under warranty. Makani - HUSH! Nobody was talking about you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truckin05 Posted July 26, 2005 Report Share Posted July 26, 2005 Benkey I agree! Not doing to well on the gas mileage! PewterC3 if you were to take a truck with just regular 4x4 and put it in high range and drive it for 40,000 miles then compare it with a 4x2 at 40,000 miles the 4x2 will have better tire wear. Now all this is depending on the regular rotation of tires on both vehicles. Why? Because the front tires are not only steering they are pulling as they steer. The rear wheel tires are only pushing and trailering with the front. My reason was to help my gas mileage and it would allow my tires to last longer. The gas mileage however has not improved much.... Like 1 to 2 mpg. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> That was my point. The appreciable gain, if any, is not worth the extra 1-2mpg. If I'm only getting 2 extra mpg, which adds up to 50 miles per tank, I'm saving a little less than $10 a tank. Not worth it to be f***ing with a $1000 part, not counting install - but maybe that's not an issue if you're still under warranty. Makani - HUSH! Nobody was talking about you. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PewterC3 Posted July 26, 2005 Report Share Posted July 26, 2005 dont bash me moron...I was trying to keep it civil. comparing a 4x4 and an AWD is like comparing a blonde and a red head....they may do basically the same thing... but have different ways of going about it. a 4x4 splits the torque 50/50.....period. No variance between front and rear bias or ability to move the torque. oh....and you can take the front shaft out of a 4x4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PewterC3 Posted July 26, 2005 Report Share Posted July 26, 2005 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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