BenKey Posted May 27, 2005 Report Share Posted May 27, 2005 I'm getting ready to put my Dakota Digital vac/boost gauge up for sell, if you're intersted. They are more accurate than needle-type gauges. You got some problems you need to figure out before you put in a smaller pulley. I would go through and check everything again. Did you install it? I thought I remember you saying that someone else did. If someone else did, then it does you no good to check anything, if you weren't even the one getting the thing in there, IMO. Much experience is gained by doing yourself and if you didn't install it, you don't have the experience to check it. Do you have a good set of directions, at least? One that you could go through each step and verify everything? Also, you said the guy that had it before had it working? Did you see it work, or did he just tell you it did? I'd be very close to going back to him for my money back. What was the reason he got rid of it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j4nash Posted May 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2005 Basically I did the install myself with a little help from some friends. So I know how everything went on. The guy that had it before me just said it worked, he took the kit off because he was trading in the vehicle and would not get any money for his mods Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurbochargedBerserker Posted May 27, 2005 Report Share Posted May 27, 2005 One "1" atmosphere is 14.7 psi unless I am taught wrong. And I know for a fact that my MAP sensor reads up to 15 psi at "0" boost on my autometer gauge. Am I missing something here?? No matter what I do with my truck my MAP sensor never reads more than 15 lbs. which should be atmospheric pressure, while my gauge reads higher than that (when it isn't leaking boost) I attribute this to that it is a 1 bar sensor and it doesn't have capacity past that. Turbo I respect your opinion here as you have been dealing with you truck for much longer than me, but what am I missing?? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> What was I thinking there... You are correct 1 bar = 1 atmosphere = 14.7psi. I am correct: at NA WOT the MAP will be ~7.5psi. That's why 1 bar tunes are only good for 7.5 psi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurbochargedBerserker Posted May 27, 2005 Report Share Posted May 27, 2005 Basically I did the install myself with a little help from some friends. So I know how everything went on.The guy that had it before me just said it worked, he took the kit off because he was trading in the vehicle and would not get any money for his mods <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I'd take this systematically. Do the simple checks first (which you've done -- checking the gauge, vacuum lines, etc.), pressurize the system and check again, then I'd get the blower checked. Unless the guy is a personal friend you can trust, you have no guarantee that the blower was actually working when delivered -- This won't be a breaker anyway -- ATI can rebuild it cheaply (last time I checked which was in 95 or so it was about $500) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j4nash Posted May 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2005 Well tonight I double checked every joint again and then I glued them. So now I have to wait and let everything dry and see it there is any difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j4nash Posted May 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2005 if this does not fix it and a smaller pulley does not fix it i am going to call the guy i bought it from and get my money back, or at least enough to buy a new head unit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted May 28, 2005 Report Share Posted May 28, 2005 aside from checking connections what diagnosis have you done? i'd be checking boost with a second gauge. find out how much air the maf is reading. check the truck for KR*. i recently worked on a truck that had as much as 7-12º of knock retard at w.o.t. and didn't feel much faster than a stock SS before i fixed most of the tune. it had also been tuned by someone else before i got to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j4nash Posted May 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2005 when we were tuned my truck it did show 6º of knock, but no matter what we did it would not go away so allen thought that it must be false knock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurbochargedBerserker Posted May 28, 2005 Report Share Posted May 28, 2005 false knock or not, 6* of constant KR at WOT is going to be killing your advance. You should still see the boost, but it would probably feel like a slug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j4nash Posted May 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2005 Allen tried to get reed of it but he could not get it to go away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted May 29, 2005 Report Share Posted May 29, 2005 if it wasn't there before the blower why would it be there now? it sounds to me like this is the first place i'd be chasing the low power problem for. remember also that every pulley change should have a new tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j4nash Posted May 29, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2005 allen is sending me a new tune out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted May 30, 2005 Report Share Posted May 30, 2005 lower size crank pulley has caused constant KR before. Do you have them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j4nash Posted May 30, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2005 nope i still have the stock one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infinus Posted May 31, 2005 Report Share Posted May 31, 2005 6 degrees of KR and you are going to try going to a smaller pulley size to fix the problem? Let me know when you blow your motor. If I had ANY KR the last thing I'd do is decrease a pulley size. If that KR is real you'll blow something up real fast. Just because you can't get it to go away doesn't mean you ignore it. You need to fix the problem. I'd approach this more that there is no such thing as false KR.... something is making the pcm read 6 degrees of it, whether its from the motor actually knocking or from a bad knock sensor you have to find that out before you just go plug in more boost. Do what everyone on here is telling you. Try a different boost gauge, yours seems faulty, check your MAF and such, find someone with a scanner, don't just blindly guess. You need to take this a bit more serious then just plugging in more boost and seeing what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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