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  1. Hey all, I bought an '03 AWD Silverado SS about a month ago. Only 136,000 miles for $12k and she runs great, or at least did. Trying to figure out if my recent muffler delete is causing the trans to have mushy shifts. It was a home hacksaw job from a buddy of mine just for fun but I've never had issues with muffler deletes in the past. I'm taking it to get a Flowmaster Super 40 or 44 put on next week hoping that solves the issue. Has anyone else ever encountered this? Would lack of back pressure on the LQ9 make a torque difference?
  2. Just picked up a '03 SS Sunday with 18k miles on it. Pretty stoked to get under the hood. Replacing fluids, filters, tires, and serpentine belt. Next..?
  3. Hey everyone my name is Evan I am 31 & from southeast Georgia. Big into music, guns, racing/shows, & anything to keep busy. I recently got out of the tuner scene, selling my 03 supercharged 6 speed tiburon (third one I owned) I built for road racing & decided to get another Silverado like I had a few years ago before it was totaled. I’ve only had this 03 for 2-3 months. It was stock except for being lowered & having the new 5 spoke rims on it. Whoever had it before took very good care of it. Since I’ve had it I’ve done the routine things like removed all badges, 20% tint, replaced the head, tail & third brake lights with tinted ones; LEDs in all upfront, installed fog lights, black billet grills, wrapped bow tie in CF, tailgate brake LED strip, locking tailgate, replaced jump seat with center console from tahoe, installed pioneer double din & two Memphis 10’s in a pro box. Black with chrome rings gauge cluster bezel, Escalade gauge face, blue needles with silver base, replaced stock gauge bulbs with cool white LEDs. Herculiner bed liner I’ve yet to put down. Overall it’s a very clean & great truck. I’m only interested in making it as aesthetically pleasing as possible & not as fast as possible. With that being said, I’ll probably only put an Air Raid intake on it, dual side exhaust & that’s probably all. The only real plans I have left is to finish murdering it out painting the front end & rear bumper, wrapping the rims gloss black with chrome outlined bow ties on the center caps, paint calipers, replace headliner with dark grey material, sound deaden some areas, finish wrapping pieces in black and/or carbon fiber, eventually a tonneau cover and hopefully I’ll be able to come across a used hood for sale one of these days! Looking forward to being a member of this site. Cheers!
  4. 2003 Siverado SS Extended Cab LQ9 6.0L V8 with 70k miles and near perfect interior and exterior. Good tires, spray in bed liner and under body, all original with no modification. All manitenance done to schedule and everything works as it should. Asking $17,500
  5. Greetings and salutations everyone. I am selling my Silverado SS posters, keychains, and Matchbox Truck. I think $50 shipped is more than fair for all this great stuff! You only get the posters, not the frames. Send payment to [email protected] via PayPal.
  6. This truck has too much to list quickly, I communicate best on the phone and would appreciate interested people giving me a chance to speak with them for 5 minutes to see if this might be a truck you are interested in. The skinny: 78,000 miles Stock interior/exterior lq9 block - built internals - (race shop in winchester 10k invested) Borg Warner Turbo Custom 5" exhaust - Serviceable 4L80e Trans with billet converter sourced from a camaro dragster (has trans brake) Modified input on stock AWD transfercase steel rear driveshaft AMS Boost control Methanol injection WORKING A/C and Stereo Hydra boost conversion for brakes Electric cooling fans tuned with HP tuners - boost levels= gate pressure, 10, 15 - anything you want to go with max I have tested is 18 asking 25K but willing to discuss - I already have a low offer to entertain. Video walkthrough and all questions answered for those who take the time to speak on the phone with me - Mike Hogarty - 540-409-1967 Thank you for your interest!
  7. I have a 2007 Chevy Silverado VortecMax edition. Does anybody know the amperage of the alternator? It's a 6.0 V8, not a 4.8 or a 5.3 V8.
  8. Specs on vehicle are 2001 Sierra standard cab w/05 6.0L,4L80e,3800 circle d converter,e-fans,long tube headers, exhaust Want some good power and still be able to drive it in the weekend with no problems. Some upgrades I plan on doing are to run ethanol as a fuel source and tune. I need help choosing specs on cam. I’ve never swapped out factory cam with aftermarket cam so any advice suggestions help thank you
  9. Full Cladding kit in good condition for sale OEM $1400 plus shipping call or text me at 828-707-3882 for more pictures
  10. I was going to post this in suspension but figured its more of a general question so I chose here instead. The 2/4 was great until the other weekend another single cab with a 4/6 drop on chrome SS wheels parked next to me and made my 2/4 look like a stock height truck ... I was shooting for a 4/7 so it would sit level but my friend kept telling me 5/8 it. First I thought he is crazy, but the more I thought about it how much worse could it be than driving a 4/7? I'm sure by doing this it will actually sit two inces lower rather than 1 like you would think because of the tire downsize, but I've never seen a truck 5/8 in person to know how low it really is. So I figure I would ask for you guys opinion, I've already priced kits out and am ready to make a purchase. I just don't wanna go 4/7 and wish I went lower or go 5/8 and hate life because I scrape going over every bump in the road. I just want to be as low as I can be and still daily drive it, I drive on the highway and out of town some too so keep in mind I may hit some nasty dips going 75 mph lol. Let me know what you guys think! Here's a picture of the guy parked next to me, 4/6 drop on 275/45/20s, I'm 2/4 on 285/50/20.
  11. Hi, I live in California, specifically the Los Angeles area. I'm looking to have an engine rebuild on my 2007 Chevy Silverado VortecMax. It's currently at 177,776 miles on the odometer. When I reach 25 MPH, the truck starts to vibrate. Does anyone know a great performance auto shop that specializes in pickup trucks? If you do, let me know.
  12. I have a regular cab short bed 04 Silverado, I’m looking to clone my truck. New on here. If anyone is selling a full kit with brackets or knows how I can get my hands on one or some parts please let me know. Thanks!
  13. Hey guys I was just starting this topic not as means to bash the truck obviously but just as a means of pointing out the problems that I noticed since I've owned it that these trucks have and that GM could have done due to the fact that they cost people 40k when they were brand new. Some of the problems listed here affect MOST and some of them affect and apply to ALL and others are generic Silverado and GM issues. Feel free to add any if I've missed some 1. Famous Steering clunking when turning or going over rough terrain 2. Front Differential 3. Cheap Leather that frays and cracks after only a little bit 4. Stepper Motors in Instrument cluster being non-functional 5. Transmission Slipping ( Happens every now and then to mine and I am only at 38k miles). 6. Didn't put a sunroof on all the trucks, should have done this since the SS trim was the highest and most exclusive trim you could go with back then, should have fully loaded all of them 7. Brakes are not very good considering that they are in charge of stopping a 5,300 pound pickup truck 8. Tailgate latch issue 9.Rusting brake lines issue
  14. Anybody have a front bumper laying around? Preferably oem, my streetscene one always bothered me. Reason I ask is a horse trailer in my town ripped into mine yesterday and drove off, I am devastated . I know it will need brackets as well but I will take what I can get. Let me know! Thanks. - Edit - Last week somebody backed into my front bumper, AGAIN . I talked to the body shop who will be doing the work and they printed off an estimate but told me it would be cheaper for me to find a complete one rather than them buy one from the dealership, so I'd appreciate it if anyone could get to me with a front bumper cover, any of the brackets, ducts, silver grills, etc. Thank you so much! Have their insurance cash in hand ready to buy if I can get a good deal, if not I suppose I will be buying a new one.. Lol.
  15. I was replacing the manifold cover on my SS and i accidently put my knee on the plastic baffle piece that goes over the radiator.. anybody have a spare one or any idea where i can get a good replacement? Dealer wants $100 for a damn piece of plastic plus 30 bucks for the belt routing sticker , any help would be appreciated, Thanks George
  16. From the album: BlackSS

    Picture of the 1st day i got her
  17. Hey guys, i was looking to upgrade the brake system in my SS as it has the original one still and it is not very good for braking or so I've noticed... what system is a great replacement but won't break the bank? (Wilwood). Or what may i modify in order to get better braking performance? Any input would be greatly appreciated oh and information about the brakes on these trucks as i know nothing about the ones on these trucks.. maybe links? George
  18. I'm again in the market for an SS truck and would like some thoughts on one that I found, I am in California so yeah i found a truck but the truck is not that close to me and i did a Carfax and found out that the truck came from Utah, which i know is a snow state so i was of course expecting there to be some rust but Idk it kind of turned me off it's a slight of rust but i see that the most noticeable part is on the frame in picture , any thoughts? Tried resizing the photos don't know if you'll be able to see them in detail, Thanks! George
  19. Anyone know how much SS Silverado seats in good condition are worth (no tears, rips, etc)? Found a set that look like roughly 50k miles on them and am considering buying for the single cab but do not know what to offer the guy. Thanks!
  20. So you recently found out that your gmt800/900 doesn't have a cabin air filter. I know, its a huge shock since every other vehicle has one. In case you have no idea what I'm talking about it's a filter that is between your vents and the outside of your truck to keep dust and debris (and possibly foul odors) from entering the cab. Well it turns out Silverados used to have them...the year before the SSS came out. You can thank your friendly GM engineer for trying to save a couple bucks on production and later repairs for people not changing them out regularly. Luckily, enough people complained and GM made a retrofit kit...or at least offered the parts from previous years into one convenient package. Well fret no more, I will show you all how to do this. I know, I know (in a thick whiny nerd voice) "But there are other forums out there that already show how to do this". Shut up and sit down nerd, I'm going to write this up anyway so you don't have to dig through google looking for the one with pictures or one that makes sense. So first things first, before you order any parts or even decide to tackle this you need to take into consideration a few items: Do you have the tools required: Ratchet with 7mm, 1/4, 7/32 sockets (or equivalent) Dremel or other suitable cutting device, preferably with a 90 degree tool head Box cutter or suitable razor blade device Safety Glasses (safety first) Lots and lots of patience Are you comfortable making irreversible cuts into your trucks HVAC system with a high speed rotary tool? Are you at least slightly mechanically inclined? Are you ready to spend an hour swearing at one stupid screw? And most importantly do you know what parts you need? Thats easy. Go out to your truck and open the passenger door. Climb under the dash and using your 7mm socket tool unbolt the 3 screws holding the HVAC shield that protects everything under there. Looks like this: Before you unbolt those screws though I need to warn you (oh wait did you already do that? Well that will teach you for not reading the forum completely before tackling this job). The third screw is above the hump just behind the center console. It is a GIANT PITA. You can do this all without taking it out, but the shield will poke you and get in your way the whole time, and you may even end up breaking it. That being said, if you take this screw out, you'd better be prepared to spend some time trying to put it back in. I can show you a little trick to make it easier when the time comes. For this part only remove the 2 easy ones because you will need to put it back on until you get your parts. Ok so once said shield is out of the way, you need to determine which type of cover you need (and possibly which style filter). There are three types out there. Earlier years (2003-2004) may look like this (lets refer to as Gen1): Later years (2005-2006) may look like this (refer as Gen2): Or even possibly this (2007 and up - refer as Gen3): For the sake of this install we will use mine as an example. I have a 2006 so I've got the Gen2 picture above. So now that you have seen what style cover you have, you need to go online and place an order for the parts. Keep in mind there are two types of filters, a standard pleated filter to keep out dust and debris, and a carbon filter that will keep out dust, debris, and help filter out foul odors. (These filters need replaced yearly by the way) If you have the Gen1 'L' shaped bracket you will need: Cabin Air Filter Cover: GM# 52494070 2x Standard air filters: GM# 19257782 -or- 2x Carbon air filters: GM# 12489479 (this style uses 2 half filters side by side) If you have either the Gen2 or Gen3 style you will need: Cabin Air Filter Cover & Screw: GM# 22759208 Standard air filter: GM# 22759203 -or- Carbon air filter: GM# 23101674 (these styles use only 1 filter, although you can use 2 half filters as well) -or- Alternatively you can also use this complete Dorman Kit: Cover, Screw, and Standard Filter: 259-200 Cover, Screw, and Carbon Filter: 259-201 (I used this one – it worked perfect, and was $48 off amazon) All 3 styles are relatively similar in installation with minor differences so it is very easy to adapt these instructions to your style. So at this point you have received your parts and are ready to get started. Go back and remove that cover like before. Lay something on the floor to catch debris and plastic shavings. Next unbolt the Blower Motor Resistor. It’s the rectangular thing with two 7/32 screws directly to the right of where the filter(s) go. Looks like this: Either unplug both connectors or if you can’t get the PITA one in the back of the Blower, just unplug the one and tuck the Resistor up behind it. This will give you a little extra room to work. Now comes the fun part. Grab your rotary tool with a cutting wheel on it (a 90 degree tool head will make this a million times easier) and safety glasses and start cutting. This is where things vary a little. The Gen 1 you will be cutting an ‘L’ shape hole. This one will have the tab for the cover on the front and the screw post in the rear. Make it look like this: Gen 3 is really easy, just cut between the grooves. I hear it can be done with a razor blade. Gen 2 is somewhat more difficult. You will be cutting a 10.25” x 1” slot. I would recommend you hold the filter up to it so you can see about the dimensions you plan to cut. Just cut slightly smaller than the filter. Cut slow and carefully. This one’s tab is in the rear while the screw post is in the front. Now you don't have to do this with a dremel, but i'll tell you that it will make things easier. This is just a recommendation. You’ll notice that the ‘V’ cuts in the filter are there so you can bend the filter to make it easier to angle into the hole. You can also test fit your cover: Notice the 90 degree head. You won't be able to easily get the dremel in there without it. Alternatively if you want you can purchase the half filters and just cut a hole half the length (the length of one of the half filters). Make sure you bought the Gen2/3 cover though. It will still work with a half cut as it’s meant to sit on the outside of the hole. I prefer to do things right though. Once you get your rough cut look up inside. You will see the factory grooves for the filter that is no longer there (just like how there are screw posts yet no cover). You’ll also likely see years of nasty crap mashed into your heater core. Also take note of the inside dimensions. Just inside your cut you will see the vertical surfaces before it opens up to the heater core. Take your razor blade and very carefully trim your hole so it is even with said vertical surfaces. It will coincidentally be the exact size you need for your filter. Also on the front and back surfaces you will see grooves going vertically all the way to the top. Cut exactly to that center groove sticking out. You should end up with about 2-3mm of surface left all the way around and a flat opening with nothing to catch on the filter. Make sure you make this smooth, as well as the bottom surface where the cover mounts so you get a solid seal. Test fit your filter. It should slide in easily without snagging on burrs, and should stop with the bottom completely flush with the cover surface. Make sure the convenient pull tabs are on the bottom and the ‘V’ cuts are facing to the right. If you used the two half filters you will slide one up and then push it to the back, then slide the second one in beside it. Pull the filter out and use compressed air or something to blow the crap out of the heater core. Put the filter back in. Finally take your new cover and hook the back tab into the slot and set against the filter. Take your new screw and using your 1/4” screw the cover onto the screw post. It won’t take any effort. Don’t use a drill. If you have a Gen2, screw it in until the seal is lightly compressed and the tab should be making contact with the screw post. A Gen 3 will not make contact with the screw post. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! Make sure you put your Blower Motor Resistor back in and plug it in. Clean up the area well and grab that HVAC cover. This is the fun part. If you unscrewed only two, good for you, screw it back on. If you unscrewed all 3, take a deep breath. Grab your 7mm, preferably a deep well. Put one of your screws in it and use electrical tape to tape it on, like this: Take the cover and note the PITA screw location. It has a screw well that if you look at the inside has a depression that conveniently will seat right over top of the screw post under the dash. Find said screw post and get your bearings. Take the cover and carefully seat that screw post into the cover’s depression. Now with the other hand take the socket contraption you just made and stick it up in the screw well and try and seat the screw. Once its seated the socket and screw will stay up there while you hand tighten the screw. Once suitably tight put your ratchet on and tighten it. Now pull the socket off. It should come off with the tape. Now tighten the last two screws. You just saved yourself an hour of swearing. Clean up and pat yourself on the back while you breathe in nice filtered air. And don’t forget, the next time you see a GM engineer, punch him in the junk.
  21. Wats up guys? I was posting because I wanted some feedback on what is the best exhaust system setup just to gather opinions.. I do live in California, so the control of emissions is the worst out here , probably the strictest out of anywhere here in the states I think. To start off true dual exhaust is illegal out here and it's rare to find a guy that will do it at a shop, that plus cars out here have to get smogged every two years and it will not pass with true dual. The setup that I have right now on my truck is dual with a flowmaster 40 series muffler, I think that's the 2nd loudest muffler they carry, the loudest would be the super 10, I don't exactly want to be that obnoxious ****with the extremely loud truck driving down the street, I just want to change the sound a bit on what I currently have, any thoughts?
  22. Hi guys, this is my first post on SilveradoSS.com. I have been following the site for awhile though, but I am a noob here so I apologize in advance for anything out of the rules. So far this site has been a tremendous help to me with my trucks. I have a truck I need to sale and I figured the best place would be here hoping to find someone who truly appreciates these trucks. I recently acquired 2 Silverado SS's (2003 & 2006) and decided to keep the 2003 since I liked it a little better and it was the AWD model. I have a 2006 Silverado SS 2wd for sale. I bought this truck about 2 months ago the same time I bought the 2003 I am currently driving. I had already bought the 2006 and decided I wanted the 2003 so I am selling the 2006. I bought this truck off of a friend of my dads who is an older gentlemam who is a car collector. The truck had sat in my dads storage building for the last year and a half not being driven. He was keeping it to give to his grandson for his 16th birthday, but his grandson didn't want the truck. (I know right) I thought I was pretty knowledgable on these trucks with previous family members owning them and always owning Silverado trucks. I didn't really look over the truck too much when I bought it or ask many questions as I normally would buying a used vehicle since it was a friend of the family. I didn't know they offered a 2wd version in 2006 until I had already purchased it and I was pretty set on having the AWD version. The only thing I have replaced that I have noticed that needed to be replaced was the fuel sensor on the tank. It had went bad and had caused the fuel pump to continually kick off when trying to pump gas. Other than that the truck runs and drives great and still feels fresh for an older truck. Odometer 118,704 (miles may differ slightly as my dad is currently driving the truck occasionally) The truck is currently sitting in my dads storage building. Located in Western Kentucky. Sorry for the dirty photos, I live in Nashville and haven't had the chance to get back up to KY to detail it. I'm asking $14,500 for it. Not interested in trades. 270.519.3509 Thanks!
  23. Hey There Enjoy reading the forums, & gathering ideas & advice. February 2016, I gave my 2002 Chevrolet Silverado (Sylvie) a make over. (Very Much needed) - Replaced the farmers cap with a Fibreglass tonneau cover - Replaced d/s & p/s Cab corners, & rocker panels - Replaced both front fenders - Welded in rear fender patches - Replaced Tailgate - Replaced Chrome rear bumper with paint matching indigo blue steel bumper - Painted all mirrors & handles to match - Removed all decals - Added SS front bumper. She's a Head Turner now!! Almost got stolen in August when i ventured to Detroit.....(weird) Check out my pics, & Thnx for havin me. The Hoss! Orangeville, Ontario, Canada Before/During/After...
  24. Selling my Arrival Blue 2003 SS Silverado. Truck is in great shape and has been pampered. Low miles, never smoked in, and always adult driven. I am the second owner and it has a clean carfax. It has a matching fiberglass tonneau cover. The car is completely stock other than the radio (original radio to go with it) and the tonneau cover. interior has no rips or tears and outside still looks great. Truck also runs great. New radio has xm and dvd plus steering wheel controls. I just posted it on autotrader and would love feedback from you guys. Let me know what you think. Asking price is $18,500. My email is [email protected] Phone number is 321-246-1985.
  25. i have an 03 SS and wanted to change the sound of it when you start it, all the trucks i've had, i never altered them, i always kept them all stock, but i like the deep rich growl of some modified trucks, i've heard putting a new muffler will change the sound like a flowmaster muffler. but any ideas i don't want it to sound obnoxiously loud, i've also heard the thicker the pipe the louder the sound, any ideas?
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